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Switching To Ffw, What Needs To Be Bought?


cunny12345

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Hi there, at the momant i have a profile rear hub with a freewheel on it and a sprocket up front (not sure on what sprocket, neither freewheel)

So what i was wondering is that sometime i would like to switch to ffw, i had a think on what i would need to buy, yes i could buy a normal freewheel to go up front but what about my hub? im not sure on what the fitting is called but i know its not a screw on, when putting the back freewheel on it just slots in, if you get what i mean :S so yeah, would that mean i would just have to buy a new hub for the back and a freewheel? so i could then just put the sprocket on the back (the one i have already got) and buy a new freewheel for the front and then it would be all good?

-Does actually look like the profile mini

Any thoughts?

Sorry if its confusing

Matt.

Edited by cunny12345
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Hi there, at the momant i have a profile rear hub with a freewheel on it and a sprocket up front (not sure on what sprocket, neither freewheel)

So what i was wondering is that sometime i would like to switch to ffw, i had a think on what i would need to buy, yes i could buy a normal freewheel to go up front but what about my hub? im not sure on what the fitting is called but i know its not a screw on, when putting the back freewheel on it just slots in, if you get what i mean :S so yeah, would that mean i would just have to buy a new hub for the back and a freewheel? so i could then just put the sprocket on the back (the one i have already got) and buy a new freewheel for the front and then it would be all good?

Any thoughts?

Sorry if its confusing

Matt.

the profile is driver type hub ie the pawls are attached to the reverse of the sprocket in side the hub. in order to go ffw, you will need to get a new wheel built, new wider bb, cranks, freewheel, bashguard, screw on rear sprocket. if you have a profile, i would stick with that if its in good nick, thay are pretty good. it`s gonna cost upwards of £150 to do it with good quality parts that aren`t gonna break.

you dont mention what bike its on, i suspect a mod, in which case you are better off leaving it be for the moment. if you are intent on upgrading, just get cranks and bb with a screw on sprocket abd bashguard. gearing wise you should be looking at 18-12.

hope this helps

dan

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the profile is driver type hub ie the pawls are attached to the reverse of the sprocket in side the hub. in order to go ffw, you will need to get a new wheel built, new wider bb, cranks, freewheel, bashguard, screw on rear sprocket. if you have a profile, i would stick with that if its in good nick, thay are pretty good. it`s gonna cost upwards of £150 to do it with good quality parts that aren`t gonna break.

you dont mention what bike its on, i suspect a mod, in which case you are better off leaving it be for the moment. if you are intent on upgrading, just get cranks and bb with a screw on sprocket abd bashguard. gearing wise you should be looking at 18-12.

hope this helps

dan

ohh i see.. hmm looks to be an expensive job, think il be leaving it how it is then, yes im on a mod, i have just recently put on a new set of trialtech cranks, do you recon it would work if i did end up buying a new 116mm fixed hub, a screw on sprocket and a freewheel? or would i also need to buy a new bb, i wouldnt be changing any time soon anyway, just wondering..

Matt.

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ohh i see.. hmm looks to be an expensive job, think il be leaving it how it is then, yes im on a mod, i have just recently put on a new set of trialtech cranks, do you recon it would work if i did end up buying a new 116mm fixed hub, a screw on sprocket and a freewheel? or would i also need to buy a new bb, i wouldnt be changing any time soon anyway, just wondering..

Matt.

Depends on your set up.

Say you were to run a FFW setup, with bashring, you would need a 127.5mm BB axle length minimum to get the clearance you'd need.

To Go FFW at reasonable cost, and reliability, Id choose:

Echo TR Rear Hub.

Echo TR 12 screw on sprocket

Trialtech Race ISIS BB (Tad heavy but takes a beating)

Trialtech Sport Cranks (as you have)

Echo SL 108 FFW

Your current bashring.

^ Thats the setup Im running and its been sweet since day one.

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Depends on your set up.

Say you were to run a FFW setup, with bashring, you would need a 127.5mm BB axle length minimum to get the clearance you'd need.

To Go FFW at reasonable cost, and reliability, Id choose:

Echo TR Rear Hub.

Echo TR 12 screw on sprocket

Trialtech Race ISIS BB (Tad heavy but takes a beating)

Trialtech Sport Cranks (as you have)

Echo SL 108 FFW

Your current bashring.

^ Thats the setup Im running and its been sweet since day one.

ohh i see, okay then, may have to look at buying them sometime, il probably wait till my set up goes kaput, cheers for the advice! :)

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Why do you even want to change ?

Whats the advantage of FFW over a profile ?

Evening out the weight abit, i have quite a heavy back end

Plus more than twice as many engagement points, making gapping/up to backs easier.

Having a ffw also means you can have a much smaller front cog, meaning less weight and more ground clearance.

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