Greetings Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 As the title says really. I'd love to get answers from professionals, not so much from people who have just been fiddling with their bikes for many years. I'm interested in the official answers. Parts that interest me: - Headset - BB cups - Crank-bb spline - Crank bolts - Pedal/crank threads - Cog and freewheel threads Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Pretty sure the official answer is yes to everything. Only debateable one is the headset to frame interface; some like it dry, others prefer a bit of grease. I put copper anti sieze grease on freewheel and cog threads. EDIT: Sorry, I'm not a professional (though have worked in a bike shop?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Not a professional bike mechanic, nor have I worked in a bike shop, but I have been maintaining bikes and motorbikes for over twenty years now so I would say I have sufficient experience. IMHO time and experience is worth more than a piece of paper. Personally the only place I wouldn't put grease is on a square taper BB/crank interface, I'm not sure if this is the 'professional' method but I've always assembled them dry and never had an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I agree with what Forteh said...grease up everything except the sq taper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I've always greased square tapers as well and never had any issues... Any real reason why not to? I've always greased everything that's metal on metal on my bikes. I'm no 'pro' either but I've had very few issues and my kit lasts me a long long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 ello. i have been fixing my own bikes for 20 years. and been fixing bikes in idb shops for 8 years now. and took the cyctec level 2 and 3 nvq and hers what you should be doing - Headset : i use shimano anti seaze on the cups only if the metals are different. to avoid corrsion - BB cups :again anti seaze i use all the time on bb cups there a nighmare to remove without it - Crank-bb spline :anti seaze on any tipe except square taper. ( i have nver been told why thou) i asume the square taper could get damaged if there is any movement - Crank bolts :anti seaze also for obvious reasons - Pedal/crank threads : anti seaze copper slip is best for threads - Cog and freewheel threads : anti seaze copper slip. i do also find marine grase is very good on bikes as it silocon based and works on pretty much any surface including bearings. white lighting do one for bikes now 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) EDIT: Sorry, I'm not a professional (though have worked in a bike shop?) Nah, that's fine. Just wanted to avoid getting answers from 12-year olds who are currently owning their first trials bike (no offence intended towards said people). Seems to have worked. Is copper grease a good all-rounder or should it be avoided in certain areas? As for headsets, it sounds like alu ones can go into alu frames dry? Thanks to all so far Edited January 30, 2012 by Greetings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I grease everything other than headset cups, with square taper bbs I usually just rub it with an oily/greasy rag or put a dab of grease on then wipe it off. copper stuff is great, best for threads, some sort of lithium grease is great for bearings and anti seize is great for threads or metal on metal contact points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Nah, that's fine. Just wanted to avoid getting answers from 12-year olds who are currently owning their first trials bike (no offence intended towards said people). Seems to have worked. Is copper grease a good all-rounder or should it be avoided in certain areas? As for headsets, it sounds like alu ones can go into alu frames dry? Thanks to all so far copper grease is great for all places that don't move. things you dont want to seize. so all other things such as the headset i use lithium grease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I grease everything other than headset cups, with square taper bbs I usually just rub it with an oily/greasy rag or put a dab of grease on then wipe it off. copper stuff is great, best for threads, some sort of lithium grease is great for bearings and anti seize is great for threads or metal on metal contact points. This Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I'm going to hazard a guess as to why you don't generally grease up square taper. The joint relies on friction being formed in the taper, obviously any lubrication in there is going to tend to make it slip off a bit easier. Another aspect of it is that if it is lubricated on assembly, the lube will allow a greater torque to be applied when tightening the crank up, this could easily stretch the aluminium taper, especially if its a cheap set of cranks. Once its stretched you're permanently left with a baggy crank that wont tighten without resorting to shimming the tapers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 you're permanently left with a baggy crank "Like sleeve of wizard." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 "Like sleeve of wizard." That's the idea, as said grease on a square taper bb allows over torquing of the crank bolt which can lead to the generally soft aluminium crank arm deforming causing it to come loose. Copper slip on threads, grease on bearings and splined bbs and don't grease headset cups. Always use a threadlocking compound on disc rotor bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Borneo Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I run profile cranks so a slightly different setup but I always use thread locker on crank bolts and have never had a problem removing one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) only ever use lithium greace on bearings and nothing else,lithium grease is no good for anti seaze i use silcon based marine greace i find it much better it has better temperature handling regular cyclists will benefit more using better waterproof silicon based grease which also will keep your rubber seals fresher and not cause them to dry up. silicon grease litium grease if your going to buy some grease get some marine silicon greace and some copper slip i use these white lightning crystal grease and shimano anti seazei use this because its not as abrasive as copper slip, we use it because it doesnt damage bike seatposts annodizing when moving it up and down loads Edited January 31, 2012 by dezmtber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endohopper Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Don't forget a quick shot of silicon spray or similar in your cables in the case of Vees or mechanical discs ,and a spot of grease on nipple/spoke threads . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockman Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I always use loctite retaining compound on the headset cups as you put them into the flare, to minimize movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 never heard of headset cups moving, but i see where your coming from ish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 interesting read so far, i like how hes asked for professinoal answers and still got the following. just because you been doing some thing for 50 years doesnt make it the correct way. pretty much every where needs to be greased or lubed in some way, arguments are generally about what types of grease is used for different materials. why wouldnt you want to lube a tapper on a crank? the use of a torque wrench is to ensure the material isnt deformed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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