dannytrialskid Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Got new pads and the slaves are out all the way. on the driveside the crank hits the slave quote alot. what can i do to prevent it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsguyperth Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 i had the same problem mate i just got a file and filed the pad down..... im sure there is a better way but thats what i done.... you could get a longer bb mate that way your cranks are further apart.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooo Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 I had the same problem, I used a spacer, you can put one on your freewheel or on your axle to push your crank out a bit (might affect other things though). If only one crank is hitting, it might mean something in the drivetrain is wonky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_Trials Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Yeah as said, can file the pad down. Other ways could be to get new cranks with a larger offset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) True the wheel across For example: if the crank is hitting the slave cylinder on the 'drive side', but the crank is not hitting the slave cylinder on the 'non drive side' then true the wheel over to the 'non drive side' - this will enable you to push the slave cylinder further in (and clear your crank arm). Edit: Alternatively you could try a spacer between the hub and frame (on which ever side is necessary), the 'seat stays' will now be further away from the rim so you will have to set your slave cylinders further in. I can this method being less effective though.. Edited January 21, 2012 by cai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Edit: Alternatively you could try a spacer between the hub and frame (on which ever side is necessary), the 'seat stays' will now be further away from the rim so you will have to set your slave cylinders further in. I can this method being less effective though.. Actual position of the slave cylinder would be the same with this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike_dummie Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 What cranks are you using? The old middle burns had this problem, all you need to do is file a slight bit material off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Echo slaves have more 'ankle clearance' so shouldnt hit the crank. With new Coust pads and the slaves right out my brake is at about the right place but the cranks catch...i ended up filing my cranks down a bit to round off the ends. Check out the picture below of the try-alls for an idea of what to do if you follow this route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Echo slaves have more 'ankle clearance' so shouldnt hit the crank. With new Coust pads and the slaves right out my brake is at about the right place but the cranks catch...i ended up filing my cranks down a bit to round off the ends. Check out the picture below of the try-alls for an idea of what to do if you follow this route. You did a hella nice job there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 That's how try-all cranks come... I made a less pretty job of my RS7's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Actual position of the slave cylinder would be the same with this method. Trust me it works, I've used this method before. For example: if you place a 5mm spacer between the hub and frame on the drive-side, both drive-side and non-drive-side chain stays & seat stays flex outwards by 2.5mm (your comment is based on you thinking the non-drive-side would stay put, and that only the drive-side would flex out by 5mm - this is wrong). Anyway as I said truing the wheel is a much better method of sorting out the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andeee Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Wider bottom bracket? New cranks with more offset clearance? Correct braking set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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