JD™ Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 It definitely used to be there, although I'm being blind too. Mine worked out at about £250 delivered as far as I remember, but my memory is shocking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 It definitely used to be there, although I'm being blind too. Mine worked out at about £250 delivered as far as I remember, but my memory is shocking. Was that a 4140/4130 one? Someone recently posted that you're looking at about $130 for a cheepo mild steel one or $250 for a full cromo one I think (plus shipping from Peru). If you can afford a Hex go for it. I'm still not quite convinced by the Marino's in terms of strength and quality but as a bang for buck you can't really complain I guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 mild steel:120usd 42crmo4:250usd aprox.70 shipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Was that a 4140/4130 one? Someone recently posted that you're looking at about $130 for a cheepo mild steel one or $250 for a full cromo one I think (plus shipping from Peru). If you can afford a Hex go for it. I'm still not quite convinced by the Marino's in terms of strength and quality but as a bang for buck you can't really complain I guess! Yea it was one of his first 4130 ones apparently. Yea it was $250 plus delivery, I went for express delivery so put it up to about £250 in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBrown Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 oh it'll definitely be the hex. I just hadn't heard of merino before now. they do look good value to be honest. iv'e just had another idea for routing that cable as well How about routing the cable completely through the frame and bringing it out right at the back of the top tube and using a splitter right at the end (on the inside of the frame) so all you see is two parts of the cable poking out of the back of the top tube 2 holes going to the slaves. now Iv'e thought about how big this would make the hole (near the head tube) and I've figured a way around it. Using the hole inside the head tube I could push the fully assembled cable down through the top tube, through the holes in the base of the tope tube then through the hole created for the cable to thread through coming from the leaver. however because space is limited on the inside of the top tube I need the smallest possible splitter and the only 2 Iv'e seen are by trial tech and monty. so does anybody know of a splitter that doesn't send the slave pipes off at an angle? or would it fit inside the top tube without needing to run parallel? god that was hard to explain sorry if it just sounds like a bunch of blurb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Personally I'd have the exit hole underneath the top tube and right near the seat tube and have the splitter there so the slave hoses go round the seat tube to the slaves. Then you've still got access to it if anything goes wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBrown Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 That would be the easy option Could anybody with a Hex get me pictures of the inside of the head tube and seat tube because I need to know if i'll be able to route the cable directly under the seat post. also would running the seat post that short be safe seeing as i'll probably have to cut it down lots ... Mehh who sits down anyways. I know I'm being really picky about this but it's going to be by far the nicest frame I've ever owned and I just want to put my own stamp on it seeing as they're becoming quite common lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
court Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) Done it to my Comp. Never heard the hose rattle in the toptube. It holds itself better than you'd think. It didn't even cross my mind about the hose rattling inside. Thread it up with no olive, shroud nut etc from the back end of the toptube so you haven't got the worry of getting the splitter through either. Just do them like that... But obviously bring it out before the seat tube! Cheers, Court. Edited January 6, 2012 by court Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBrown Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Done it to my Comp. Never heard the hose rattle in the toptube. It holds itself better than you'd think. It didn't even cross my mind about the hose rattling inside. Thread it up with no olive, shroud nut etc from the back end of the toptube so you haven't got the worry of getting the splitter through either. Just do them like that... But obviously bring it out before the seat tube! Cheers, Court. thanks for the pics I never thought to completely remove the cap from the back of the top tube also I see you've drilled the entry hole in the gusset so I guess that'd be a good place to drill. However if you think of it like you would a spoke in a wheel (same theory different subject) a spoke generally only snaps at the ends other elbow or thread hence butted spokes ...so would it be better to drill the hole as far down the frame as possible? Obviously within reason I wouldn't put it halfway down the top tube but it kind of makes sense to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.