Alex Dark Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 Right, here's the situation: I just got my bionic mod all sorted with 06 hope mini levers on 07 mono trial calipers, brand new pads on the rear and old uns on the front. Performance was pretty good, rear wouldn't hold on everything and after a while the front squealed a bit, especially when really wet but when used for a bit would settle down. After a while the front brake got incredibly good and the rear improved slightly. The front brake got contaminated with dot fluid, but i noticed this instantly and cleaned with IPA. performance was restored within half an hour or so after. Then, i bought a new frame and as a matter of course stripped down both brakes ( as i had to change the rear caliper shell ) all 4 pistons were polished and lubed then really carefully bled. The rotors were scrubbed with a green scouring pad and fairy liquid then rinsed off thoroughly, then they were cleaned off with isopropyl alchohol and sanded the rotors with 1200 grit to scrub off some brown marks that i suspected was ingrained oil but i couldn't get rid of. The rotors were then cleaned again with IPA Pads were cleaned very thoroughly with IPA, and the fronts were torched over a gas flame as i was worried about contamination. Pads were then sanded with 320 grit. After fitting the brakes were very good, especially the rear after 15mins of bedding in. After about 2 hours the rear started squealing and not holding/biting. I assumed this was contamination/bedding in so i poured water on....got a bit better so i cleaned with ipa and used loads of water. Performance was restored. Front was amazing, 7ft to front held like a rock. Now the front brake is squealing...i dont really understand why this keeps happening?! im taking every precaution and they keep getting ballsed up. Is this part of bedding in? They had about 5 hours of riding since rebuilding. Sorry about the epic read,id love some help sorting this as its a pain in the ass. Il chuck a video up to show the situation. Cheers, Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onza pro series guy Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 Buy new pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted December 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 It had new pads in the rear but it appears they died. Plus, im not in the best finances and £24 for both ends is quite a lot ( unless those £6 ashima jobbies are any good? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 From what I've heard there's a decent lesson here for you: if a disc is working, leave it alone. I'd probably look into new pads and discs when you can, but for now just keep chucking water over it and bedding them in when they are squealing and hope for the best! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 Agree with Jason completely, i've just ruined my front Hope by f**king about with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 The front you probably should have left alone, but the rear he didn't have much choice about as he was changing the caliper shell anyway. Hopes are really temperamental, just ensure everything is clean, set up perfectly and bleed well. Not much more you can do, then leave it alone and ride it. It might bed in and settle down and start working again. The only way I've found to get a working Hope mono is to buy one from new.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) I found the same thing with my front hope. Some days it would work brilliantly, others, it would be shit. I removed the disc, and cleaned it in the dishwasher, and placed the brake pads in some boiling water for 15 minutes. After they have cooled down, I ran a file across the top of the pad and removed about 1mm of pad. With the disc, after its been cleaned, go around it with a fine grade sand paper, and then re-install everything, giving the brake a fresh bleed before hand, and ensuring all the fittings on the brake are tight to prevent any leakages. (I say this because Ive all too often only nipped up the bleed nipple and the fluid slowly leaked out and contaminated it ) Then bed the brake back in, using clean, cold water. I found that really dragging the brake as hard as I could over a short distance (picking up speed, applying brake and riding for 5 seconds) bedded them in quickly. Just a case of doing so until the squeaking completely stops. Both when the brakes wet and when the brakes dry. Edited December 26, 2011 by Echo Lite 09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence--Trials Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 It sounds like you have a leak to be fair.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Check for leaks, if there are none, new pads and rotors. Anything but official hope pads are poo, Tories made by hope will work best too. Brake cleaner etc never works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 From his Facebook it looks like the Onza Limey4 proto. I'm guessing if he's using a non-onza hub that'll be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Does the Limey 4 use 110mm spacing? Ive used an Echo TR hub in my ice 2 frame running a hope without a problem. All you have to do is run one snail cam or 3mm spacer on the inside of the frame on the disc side and the disc is spaced sufficiently from the frame to run the brake. Won't do the frame any harm to open it up by 3mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirt jumper jake Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 From his Facebook it looks like the Onza Limey4 proto. I'm guessing if he's using a non-onza hub that'll be the problem. If its stupidly short with more bb rise than then eifel tower then it probably will be. ryan ran rear disc fine with echo hubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Maybe the proto is 116 then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Check for leaks, if there are none, new pads and rotors. Anything but official hope pads are poo, Tories made by hope will work best too. Brake cleaner etc never works. Hm if there are any leaks im thinking its from the caliper shell as thats what I messed with. WHats your preferred method of testing? What do you mean by Tories Ads? Also, the pistons were slightly scratched on the pistons but they were polished out so i would have thought that would sort the problem? Surely rotors can be cleaned...otherwise its a pretty big expenditure! I know never to use brake cleaner after it contaminated a mates brake irreparably! When i get back home on the 2nd I'll try and re-clean the pads and rotors and pressure test the braes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirt jumper jake Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) Maybe the proto is 116 then? Pretty sure theres a couple in circulation. Hopefully it will on stay at a couple, as the one i rode was f**king awful. EDIT: just read the OP again and it says he's on a bionic Edited December 27, 2011 by dirt jumper jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 I totally messed this topic up for the other topic regarding hopes. I wasn't even that drunk last night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence--Trials Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Alex it might be something simple as one of the bolts either the bleed bolt or the closest bit in this picture isn't tight enough, i've had that problem once i think, just make sure they're tight and that could be your problem sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Hm if there are any leaks im thinking its from the caliper shell as thats what I messed with. WHats your preferred method of testing? What do you mean by Tories Ads? Also, the pistons were slightly scratched on the pistons but they were polished out so i would have thought that would sort the problem? Surely rotors can be cleaned...otherwise its a pretty big expenditure! I know never to use brake cleaner after it contaminated a mates brake irreparably! When i get back home on the 2nd I'll try and re-clean the pads and rotors and pressure test the braes Phone fail - meant rotors! If there is a leak it will be very obvious. You *can* clean rotors, but it doesn't work 100%. Disc brake cleaner is IPA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence--Trials Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Phone fail - meant rotors! If there is a leak it will be very obvious. You *can* clean rotors, but it doesn't work 100%. Disc brake cleaner is IPA. Whats IPA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike_dummie Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Isopropyl alchol - ipa as used in screen wiped ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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