LordAssworthMcThor Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) Just started trials riding, am loving it but I've done my back wheel hub or something in. The pedals turn the gears but not the back wheel, and theres no freewheel click. Both pedals and wheel run extremely smoothly, the back wheel spins as freely as the front. First of all, what needs replacing? And second of all, I've looked but cannot find the dimensions of my rear wheel, hub and whatnot. It's an Onza T-Raptor with a stock back everything except cassette. 26" hubs: Front - Hope XC or Mono (disc or non-disc respectively). Rear - Hope XC or CK hub. Latter is a super expensive option, probably best going for XC as it's the best engagement/strength compromise. Does that apply to all 26'' trials bikes? :/ Cheers! Edited December 15, 2011 by LordAssworthMcThor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Firstly, nice name. Secondly, you'll want a Hope pro2T really - That guide was written 7 years ago and there have been lots of updates since. The easiest option would be to buy a second hand 26" wheel off here. A pro2T on some sort of trials rim (Not sure on spacing on a T-Raptor, not sure you can fit a 47mm wide rim in, might have to stick with a 38mm wide with holes) would be like £100ish. Or buy the hub second hand (£50ish), new spokes (£10ish) and pay someone to build it onto your old rim (£15ish)/ do it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordAssworthMcThor Posted December 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 That is sounding pretty expensive, could I get this back wheel, or something similar designed for MTB rather than trials? If it lasts me a year I'll be happy, I'm a student but am doing a placement next year so will have a fair bit more to splash around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) MTB wheels can't cope with trials. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/135mm_fixed_hubs/trialtech_race_sealed_rear_hub/c21p11423.html http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/complete_freewheels/tensile_60_click/c16p398.html Those two together will do the job perfectly. Slightly cheaper than a hope pro II, and leaves you open to swapping to front freewheel in the future. Seeing as your current wheel sounds f**ked, it might be worth opening it to see if there's anything you can do. Remove the cassette. Try pulling the freehub body - that's the bit the cassette sits on - out, and anti-clockwise. You have to pull quite firmly. If it doesn't show signs of moving, there might be a nut or something to take off that'll be on the end of the axle. Open it, if there's tiny chunks of metal lying about that's why it's bust. Take a pic and post it up, perhaps. Edited December 15, 2011 by Revolver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 MTB wheels can't cope with trials. Trudat, I folded a wheel on my old Kona doing the tiniest side hop off a wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Nichols Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Is your chain on? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordAssworthMcThor Posted December 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Is your chain on? Heh heh, yeah. Anyway thanks for the help guys. I'm going home from uni tomorrow so I don't wanna be taking things apart, plus I don't have the tools to remove the casette anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIGAN ?? Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 everyone's overlooking the fact it could be your cranks, if your chain is moving when you're turning the cranks its a problem with the hub, if not its the cranks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Just started trials riding, am loving it but I've done my back wheel hub or something in. The pedals turn the gears but not the back wheel, and theres no freewheel click. Both pedals and wheel run extremely smoothly, the back wheel spins as freely as the front. First of all, what needs replacing? And second of all, I've looked but cannot find the dimensions of my rear wheel, hub and whatnot. It's an Onza T-Raptor with a stock back everything except cassette. Does that apply to all 26'' trials bikes? :/ Cheers! everyone's overlooking the fact it could be your cranks, if your chain is moving when you're turning the cranks its a problem with the hub, if not its the cranks Sounds like its the hub, but yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordAssworthMcThor Posted December 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 everyone's overlooking the fact it could be your cranks, if your chain is moving when you're turning the cranks its a problem with the hub, if not its the cranks Yeah it's defo not the crank. I'm thinking the Shimano XT might be suitable. I think I remember reading it is suitable for trials somewhere? Isn't too expensive either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Honestly, its worth spending more on a hub. Its arguably one of the most important parts of a trials bike. If you buy a shit one and it breaks, you'll be paying a hell of a lot more to get your teeth stuck back in your gums. By all means get a second hand Hope XC / Mono as they can be had for peanuts off ebay, but thats really the only thing worth getting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robwalker Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Another vote for a second hand hope XC/Mono, it's what i first had and for the price i paid for it, i don't think you'll get a better hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 pro2 or king is the only way, second hand you can get a pro2 laced into a good branded rim for £80 to £90, i know it's a fair dent of your funds but it will make progressing easier and inferior hubs will skip and fail and you'll spend more buying single cheap hubs... prowl ebay and the forum, but don't buy the mtb version... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 MTB wheels can't cope with trials. http://www.tartybike.../c21p11423.html http://www.tartybike...ck/c16p398.html Those two together will do the job perfectly. Slightly cheaper than a hope pro II, and leaves you open to swapping to front freewheel in the future. Seeing as your current wheel sounds f**ked, it might be worth opening it to see if there's anything you can do. Remove the cassette. Try pulling the freehub body - that's the bit the cassette sits on - out, and anti-clockwise. You have to pull quite firmly. If it doesn't show signs of moving, there might be a nut or something to take off that'll be on the end of the axle. Open it, if there's tiny chunks of metal lying about that's why it's bust. Take a pic and post it up, perhaps. My vote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.KYDD Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Hey man, DON'T get a shimano rear hub for trials use. They really aren't up to the job, great for MTB use but trials really is a whole different world of stress for 'normal' parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordAssworthMcThor Posted December 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) Got it. I will go for the Hope hub. Just started taking apart my wheel, was worryingly easy to do it bare handed. Pics of what I've done are below, but I don't get how to remove the freewheel, theres only one place to put a tool and nothing to turn it against, everything else is round without ridges or anything.. Anyway, as you can see the cassette has fallen apart. This was only about 2 weeks old, and the same thing happened to the previous cassette. Dunno how clear it is but there are little plastic rings which hold each gear together, the two bottom ones are missing the plastic ring. Why has this exact thing happened twice, cheap cassette (Shimano HG50 or something to do with the hub? Any ideas? And can it/is it worth fixing, if not any suggestions on what to get for a replacement? Since I'm gonna get a new hub the other pics aren't really that important. Edited December 17, 2011 by LordAssworthMcThor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 your hub is a "freehub" rather than a "freewheel". A freehub has the engagement system built in (usually ratchets and pawls) and a splined area to slide a cassette (or single cogs) onto with a lockring to tighten them up. A freewheel is a single enclosed engagement system (again with ratchets and pawls) with threads which allow you to screw it onto specific hubs or cranks. it sounds like the engagement system in your hub has broken (not surprising as it's a cheap hub and trials puts huge stresses through them). You may be able to repair it but as everyone else is suggesting a full hub upgrade would be worth while. Af far as the cassette is concerned, it looks fine to me? The bottom two cogs usually don't have plastic spacers and just have a wider base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) Got it. I will go for the Hope hub. Just started taking apart my wheel, was worryingly easy to do it bare handed. Pics of what I've done are below, but I don't get how to remove the freewheel, theres only one place to put a tool and nothing to turn it against, everything else is round without ridges or anything.. Anyway, as you can see the cassette has fallen apart. This was only about 2 weeks old, and the same thing happened to the previous cassette. Dunno how clear it is but there are little plastic rings which hold each gear together, the two bottom ones are missing the plastic ring. Why has this exact thing happened twice, cheap cassette (Shimano HG50 or something to do with the hub? Any ideas? And can it/is it worth fixing, if not any suggestions on what to get for a replacement? Since I'm gonna get a new hub the other pics aren't really that important. the freehub, if i`m correct, is the same as a cheap shimano one, and needs the axle out to remove the freehub from the hub body, using an 8/10mm allen key. this is a fairly simple job, and will ascertain which part is knackered. the one i`m gonna send you is exactly the same, so you should be able to just swap it over. Edited December 17, 2011 by danchandler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 any chance of a photo of the hub from above (also any markings on the hub)? If I am not mistaken than looks like one of the old onza oem hubs which weren't actually intended for trials use. If so it may just be a simple matter of replacing some broken pawls or springs which takes minimal effort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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