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Bike Respay?


Max.BMX&Trials

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what sort of colour/finish would you like? is it an aluminium frame and forks?

various finishes are available - powdercoat is usually the best option if you want a decent durable finish, for the stripping of the original paint and full respray - ive recieved quotes of anything from 40 - 100 (depending on the colour)

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i don't really know the market but I'm buying an inspired fourplay pro 2011 and maybe in the future if I want to get a respray i might. I'm thinking metallic red, green or blue (gloss) or maybe orange like danny mac/inspired skye what would I need for that?

Edited by Max.BMX&Trials
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Can't reccomend anyone in your area but I've had a few frames done local to me with varying standards of finish and the quality has not always reflected the price I've paid. You won't get a show standard finish with powder coat but you should be able to get something pretty good and it is tough as hell. Stove enamel is no where near tough enough for a trials bike IMO.

My top tips would be

Make sure they know you are looking for a decent finish. I've had frames back with pitting and grit in the surface and they've just told me. "It's an industrial finish, that's what you get" It shouldn't be!

Try and find a place that's done a few bike frames/forks so they have an idea of what they should and shouldn't be masking. Always best to run through with them what you want masked of anyway.

See if you can pick up a couple of old style steel bottom bracket cups from your local bike shop. Doesn't matter if they've been used as long as the threads are good and the right type and size. Most frames are 26TPI (i think). Put these in to protect the threads and you can take them out when you get it back (you may have to cut the powder coat with a stanley knife to get them loose. Your local bike shop should be able to confirm the thread type and might even be able to reccomend a good powder coaters.

Last thing, the colours on the charts they show you might not be exactly the same as the finished product so be prepared for a slight variation in colour.

Think that's about it.

Good luck

Oh yeah, make sure shot/grit/sand blasting whatever is included.

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Pay a visit to a local car body shop i am sure they will quite happily do it for you. Just take the parts in you want spraying that way it gives them a better idea for pricing etc..

Also don't go down the powder coating route! Mine chipped like a b*sterd when it came to impact landings with any obstacle mainly concrete tubes.

Andy

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Only time i've ever seen powder coat chip is when the frame hasn't been blasted. Blasting not only strips the old paint but also keys the surface and helps the powder coat stick. Wet spraying from a car body shop will not be durable enough for a trials bike. Had my road bike wet sprayed to get the colour I wanted but I'm well aware that if you even look at it funny, it's liable to chip.

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thats very very nice!! that would be a bike to keep hold of, custom black hopes too... did it really save that much on weight?

Not all from the anodising, ads attacked it with a drill and put various holes in it to get the weight down. The frame was sold on eBay last year for about £35!

The same guy did a set of ashton forks for me in black, absolute spot on job and I think he charged me about £20 with return special delivery postage. I posted the forks special delivery on the Tuesday and had them back and done by Friday, the only problem is getting hold of him as I wanted him to do my old 06 Python frame a while back but he never responded to my emails though I can't be sure why.

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Can't reccomend anyone in your area but I've had a few frames done local to me with varying standards of finish and the quality has not always reflected the price I've paid. You won't get a show standard finish with powder coat but you should be able to get something pretty good and it is tough as hell. Stove enamel is no where near tough enough for a trials bike IMO.

My top tips would be

Make sure they know you are looking for a decent finish. I've had frames back with pitting and grit in the surface and they've just told me. "It's an industrial finish, that's what you get" It shouldn't be!

Try and find a place that's done a few bike frames/forks so they have an idea of what they should and shouldn't be masking. Always best to run through with them what you want masked of anyway.

See if you can pick up a couple of old style steel bottom bracket cups from your local bike shop. Doesn't matter if they've been used as long as the threads are good and the right type and size. Most frames are 26TPI (i think). Put these in to protect the threads and you can take them out when you get it back (you may have to cut the powder coat with a stanley knife to get them loose. Your local bike shop should be able to confirm the thread type and might even be able to reccomend a good powder coaters.

Last thing, the colours on the charts they show you might not be exactly the same as the finished product so be prepared for a slight variation in colour.

Think that's about it.

Good luck

Oh yeah, make sure shot/grit/sand blasting whatever is included.

Thats some very good advice.

The colours in powder are limited but I feel its more durable and cheaper than spray painting.

Pay a visit to a local car body shop i am sure they will quite happily do it for you. Just take the parts in you want spraying that way it gives them a better idea for pricing etc..

Also don't go down the powder coating route! Mine chipped like a b*sterd when it came to impact landings with any obstacle mainly concrete tubes.

Andy

If it chipped it wasnt done properly

The problem with bike frames is you get the faraday cage effect in the corners and the powder wont stick as thick, the best way to overcome this is to use static charged guns on the main frame and Electronic charges guns on the corners were tubes meet ( Versamatic and Tribomatic if I remember correctly) A good powder coater will know of these issues and have his own way of over comming it

Heres the stuff we used

http://www.nordson.com/en-gb/divisions/industrial-coating/products/powder-coating/pages/default.aspx

I paid £30 including blasting and it was first class at a local coaters

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Just been back to my local coaters, now charges £40 for a bike frame and forks, local back street place charges £25, this includes all prepwork.

I can have a spray can mixed for £8 and they havent been too bad but not as good as powder, but the next one in the pipe line is going to have Vynal wrap on the straight tubes and paint on everything else, so watch this space.

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http://www.argoscycles.com/www/renovation-pricelist.htm

Argos Racing cycles, based in Bristol

Professional frame builders, renovates and sprayers

Meant to be one of the best for vintage road bikes. I'd like to get them to restore my Major Nichols one day but I think they only do stove enamel and it's not really tough enough for a trials bike.

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Meant to be one of the best for vintage road bikes. I'd like to get them to restore my Major Nichols one day but I think they only do stove enamel and it's not really tough enough for a trials bike.

Friend of mine had his Marin re-painted there last summer, could have sworn it was powdercoated.

Having a closer look, maybe it was this

We also spray black or white & any colour can be in a satin or gloss finish. For a harder more chip resistant finish we now offer a hard epoxy 2 pack system to MOD standards. Available in white , black, mid grey, mid Brunswick green, British racing green and tango orange plain colours. Especially suitable for downhill mountain bikes
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Heard of 2 pack paint but not really familiar with the process. MOD standards sounds promising.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention Armourtex. They're meant to be really good for powder coat. I know they do pearlecent lacquers and different levels of gloss, satin, matt finish etc and they know what they're doing when it comes to masking bike frames. They're not the cheapest, especially if you're outside of London and sending stuff and getting it sent back but I've heard they're worth the extra bucks.

Edited by Chris Borneo
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