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Csc Ms-66 Hydraulic Rim Brake


JackMeek

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Just found this on Vimeo and it has really caught my attention. I know very little about who's behind this at the moment. Thought i would share as im sure it will turn a few heads and be something to chat about. What are your thoughts.

Edited by JackMeek
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Integrated clamp is cool. As for the reservoir... 0.5mm / 1mm distance from the rim is going to be a hassle if you don't know how to true your wheels.

Agreed. Or if you can't physically true your wheel. A few of my old wheels nipples had completely fractured and rounded off, every ride I tried to get someone to help true it but it simply wouldn't hold so had a constant buckle... granted it could be fixed, but not exactly mid ride. Could be the only down side to this.

Edited by dann2707
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Yeah same, one of my nipples is completely round.. The only way to tighten it would be to take the tyre/tube/rimtape off and use a screw driver to tighten it.

You prolly didn´t try it huh?because no way in hell you would be able to turn nipple that is tighten up approprietly with screw driver.

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Integrated clamp is cool. As for the reservoir... 0.5mm / 1mm distance from the rim is going to be a hassle if you don't know how to true your wheels.

It's going to be a hassle all round, except on mods maybe? On every single stock wheel and frame I've used in the past 6 years (when I turned away from mod bikes) the rim has had a tendency to shift about 1mm to the right under heavy load from the drivetrain. I'm pretty convinced that others who run lightweight wheels will confirm this. The stiffer the wheel, the less likely this is to happen - so Urban rim, Alpine spokes and a Bonz hub - you're ok.

Secondly, they say that the pad can be pushed in very easily so even if the rim rubs against it, it will not cause any braking force to be applied. That's fine, but remember that as with disc brakes, every time you push the pads back in, the brake needs to re-align itself - this is done by pushing the lever in a few times. With this rim brake it would mean that every time the pad is pushed in (in the case of a light wheel this would be every time you do a big gap), you'll have to press the brake lever in order to re-align the pads else you will get pad contact at the very end of the lever travel. Now imagine you have to do this during a gap.

Thirdly, the clearances suggest a lot of mechanical advantage in this brake which means a very soft brake lever. I once ran Magura slaves with a Deore M525 lever and while that had immense braking power, the lever had absolutely no feel whatsoever. It was difficult to tell when the brake would release. For this to feel good, you'd need special very hard pads and some super stiff boosters.

That said, I'm all for this design, it will be interesting to see how it performs.

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considering that the qualification for wheel building states that u can allow 2mm of buckle in a wheel from brand new then that is a very bad idea in my eyes cos ur going to be forever trueing wheels? i have a good 3-4mm between my pads and rim. and for it to say that u will expeirience a slight rubbing if the wheel is not straight is silly really. if u have a grind u will have no pads left in no time? its not a disc brake so an open system is a bad idea IMO. But i suppose time will tell, it might catch on!

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considering that the qualification for wheel building states that u can allow 2mm of buckle in a wheel from brand new

Which 'qualification' is that? I haven't really heard of that anywhere else before - the shop I used to work at wanted everything dead straight, and it's the same here...

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considering that the qualification for wheel building states that u can allow 2mm of buckle in a wheel from brand new then that is a very bad idea in my eyes cos ur going to be forever trueing wheels? i have a good 3-4mm between my pads and rim. and for it to say that u will expeirience a slight rubbing if the wheel is not straight is silly really. if u have a grind u will have no pads left in no time? its not a disc brake so an open system is a bad idea IMO. But i suppose time will tell, it might catch on!

Put down the discussion on the brake....

I can't believe what you say is true ..... first of all, the same Magura recommends spacing the pads of 2mm per side, I have always done that(max 3mm) and although I have not ever had a rim perfectly straight, the pads didn't never rub the rim!

about the new single wall rims, I don't know if they sway so much...... but at this point I would complain more on undulating rims than brakes......

Edited by dart89
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Which 'qualification' is that? I haven't really heard of that anywhere else before - the shop I used to work at wanted everything dead straight, and it's the same here...

bs6102 standard? did it bout 5 year ago so might have changed now? yea shop i worked at wanted em straight as i dime too so its a bit daft really!

Edited by Yorkshire Dale
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As far as I can see, it's taken all the good things about Maguras, and replaced them with bad things. :turned:

Not having a go at all Ali, but can you justify that? Bein a lifelong dyslexic things like maguras and snail cams have always been the bain of my riding life. This looks as though its gone a long way to massively simplifying things, but maybe I'm just seeing it in a particularly nice light.

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I am not a fan of maguras by any means, in my eyes a couple of maguras main selling points are ease of setup and fast returning lever (though that does have it's downsides too).

This brake now has twice as many bolts, cant fit on frames that have wonky mounts or rims that have angled sidewalls, the pads rub like a magura with sticky slaves and the reservoir brings in issues about storing the bike upside down.

So not only has it taken away the two only good things about maguras, it's added new problems too (small bolts to strip for an example).

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