Hs33 Problemos.

[SamKidney]

After speaking to a few people elsewhere,

it sounds like rear disc really isn't the right option for me. So, Im now asking for hints and tips on how to get the best rear brake I can from my Magura.

Currently Im running an 05 Hs33, 4 finger lever, atomz clamps, water bleed,TR Rim and LGMs on my Ice frame ( integrated booster ).

It's so unreliable it's crazy. One week it will perform well, the next, theres next to no hold at all.

The bleeds good, and my grinds have been nice and sharp. The rim holds them well too.

Is it just the way LGMs are? I ran a set on a Trialtech rim around a year or two ago and they weren't all too amazing either.

Is there another pad or method you guys would recommend to get it working properly?

Cheers

Sam

Edited December 4, 2011 by Echo Lite 09

[Laurence--Trials]

No it isn't hard to ruin a disc, not atall. Yes some discs are stronger than others, NORMALLY the more material the stronger the disc. The disc protector IS good, i had one in my last few months of running a disc and it did help alot, however the actual protector does bend and is hard to bend back (it hurts if you bend it back with your fingers (thats what he said )) It does take a fair few hits before the protector needs bending back though. However i guess the amount of hits depends on bike weight, obstical(spelling??), your weight and how hard you hit it.

Disc brakes are a massive advantage though eg: for riding places your not ment to ride, riding late at night, riding during bad weather, not having to let down your tyre when you take your rear wheel out, theres probably a few more i haven't thought about.

Disc advantages, bend the disc (obv) they're easily contaminated, you cant bath bleed your brake, they CAN be harder to set up, you mainly just need the disc straight and even between the pads though.

Edited December 4, 2011 by Laurence--Trials

[SamKidney]

No it isn't hard to ruin a disc, not atall. Yes some discs are stronger than others, NORMALLY the more material the stronger the disc. The disc protector IS good, i had one in my last few months of running a disc and it did help alot, however the actual protector does bend and is hard to bend back (it hurts if you bend it back with your fingers (thats what he said )) It does take a fair few hits before the protector needs bending back though. However i guess the amount of hits depends on bike weight, obstical(spelling??), your weight and how hard you hit it.

Booo

Im quite into my TGS style, so walls and rails are going to be the most likely culprit.

Might keep my magura on the Ice then and ride the Koxx when Im riding natty.

[Azarathal]

I did nothing but TGS with rear disc and loved it. Probably just me but I found keeping the disc centered was a bitch, especially when replacing a puncture, tensioning chain etc. I just ran it slammed in the dropouts with a spoke tensioner which was sweet.

[SamKidney]

Ive tried my brothers hope with his rear wheel in my ice.

Was dead easy to line up, especially with onzas integrated tensioners.

Calliper bolted onto the frame squarely too, so I dont need to face my mounts should I choose to run one perminantly .

[Andeee]

Here's a suggestion its worth mentioning but.

if you've noticed with a lot of xc bikes etc some riders use a disc rotor protector thats basically a plastic cover that covers the perimeter of your rotor and attaches to a bracket which is then attached to your disc mount or stays.

With it been a hori drop out frame and also trials you could maybe see if its possible to modify one to fit. Only minor you might come across is when you take your rear wheel out and it will be in the way.

Try it.

See what happens and the outcome x

[SamKidney]

Here's a suggestion its worth mentioning but.

if you've noticed with a lot of xc bikes etc some riders use a disc rotor protector thats basically a plastic cover that covers the perimeter of your rotor and attaches to a bracket which is then attached to your disc mount or stays.

With it been a hori drop out frame and also trials you could maybe see if its possible to modify one to fit. Only minor you might come across is when you take your rear wheel out and it will be in the way.

Try it.

See what happens and the outcome x

Nice idea, but I cant see how plastic alone it going to protect a hard knock.

Would be money wasted, especially as there's a trial specific protector I could use

[SamKidney]

Can anyone give me any hints then?

After watching some footage last night my last set of Heatsink Yellows performed really well.

I know riders like Rich Pearson get them to work to great effect, but I cant seem to get them to do the same.

Im thinking its down to the disc im using on my grinder.

My TNNs performed amazingly in conjunction with a medium grind done with a Stainless Steel Cutting disc, but 4 weeks on the brake hasn't enough hold.

My old Beleays just seemed to work, and Ive never tried Rockpads, but after watching Borisevich Pavel use them I'm very tempted to do so.

[Andeee]

Im thinking its down to the disc im using on my grinder.

doggerz grinding technique. I've used the same grinding disc now for 3 years i never saw the point to change it. All my brake set ups have been spot on. The only thing i can criticise with your set up is the water bleed as i don't agree with them and have always sworn by magura blood. Plus people who run water bleeds always seem to get more problems than your standard magura blood bleed.

I might just go decide to see if my car will run on my own wee wee.

Edited December 5, 2011 by Andeee

[aener]

As far as I'm concerned, the ONLY reason to not go dual disc is if you sidehop to the left.

This is a very good reason - I bent three rotors in two weeks before giving up (was in full-on TGS mode at the time).

In my personal opinion - Heatsink Yellows in plastic backings, Echo TR rim, very light grind with the thinnest metal cutting disc you can find, TR clamps and a booster.

But feel free to ignore me. My opinion isn't exactly up-to-date

I wouldn't touch TNN ANYTHING with a bargepole. Nothing but disappointment from their pads, backings and clamps.

Edited December 5, 2011 by aener

[Andeee]

I wouldn't touch TNN ANYTHING with a bargepole. Nothing but disappointment from their pads, backings and clamps.

I'd agree on that. TNN Lgms are doggerz i got one good use out of it when i did a fresh grind then after that it went pants even if i was to do a fresh grind.

Of all the years i have been riding the best pads i've had are:

Heatsink yellows cnc'd

Onza Limes

Trialtech Sports ( Currently using they are absolute boss)

Old Zoo pads ( Yet these were awesome too if only they were still made i recall seeing Ares selling loads at one point.

[Pugson]

Don't know about the pads mate I havent tried many. As far as the grinding is concerned, take it from a fabricator, I usr a grinder every day, I think your being a little too pedantic, I mean, ur quibbling over fractions of a mm, stick with a decent steel grinding disc. Also lose the water and get some oil I'm there, ur water will freeze this time of year, also more likely to expand when warmed and change the feel of your brake temporarily.

[Canardweb]

Sorry, I just had to!

[SamKidney]

My grinding technique isn't "doggerz". Ive done plenty of grinds for other people and they have been spot on.

I'm more than capable of applying an even, sharp grind. I was just wondering if the disc made a noticeable difference.

I think your right on that front Flipp, these pads were fine, up until a point (LGMs) My Beleays were good when I had them.

Probably the best pads I've had were the Heatsink Yellows. They seemed to be the pad I continued to turn to time and time again.

I've managed to get myself in a right conundrum now. Part of me is saying give disc a shot, another is saying splash the cash on a bleed kit, some Phatworks Phluid and clamps and give my Magura another shot.

Should I give disc a shot?

Might be worth it?

doggerz grinding technique. I've used the same grinding disc now for 3 years i never saw the point to change it. All my brake set ups have been spot on. The only thing i can criticise with your set up is the water bleed as i don't agree with them and have always sworn by magura blood. Plus people who run water bleeds always seem to get more problems than your standard magura blood bleed.

I might just go decide to see if my car will run on my own wee wee.

Not 100% true. My chosen brake fluid has always been a mix of Water/Anti-Freeze. Never had a problem with it at all. Never frozen, always feels consistent and helps me reduce my arm pump (of which I know people on here suffer from). Only ever had to bleed this rear brake twice down to split hoses.

Edited December 5, 2011 by Echo Lite 09

[Andeee]

Lets all go back to how things were back in the day 2003-2004.

Dual avid v-brakes

Smooth rim with coke on it

Worked a treat

Now days brake set ups seem to be turning into experimental science.

Edited December 5, 2011 by Andeee

[SamKidney]

Lets all go back to how things were back in the day 2003-2004.

Dual avid v-brakes

Smooth rim with coke on it

Worked a treat

All okay so long as you want to ride only in the dry

I like to get out on my bike in all weathers so thats smooth rims ruled out!

Has to retain most of the brakes performance in the wet. (Which Is why I chose the LGMs. Pad reviews and others seem to rave about there all round performance. Load of help that turned out to be)

[dann2707]

I've never known someone with so many brake problems Almost as bad as me (but that's usually down to shitty parts and bodges)

Why the LGM hate? Mine worked flawlessly on the rear, butchered the pads to run on my front vee and as you saw last week they were working pretty well up front. Had them over a year now!

You say they wore at a funny angle, due to them slipping out of the clamps or whatever.

I reckon you should get the Echo washerless clamps, grind your LGMS as flat and smooth as you can - no point buying even more pad refills. Then get some nice new bolts, basically refurb the back end.

LGMs work brilliantly in the wet. I rode pretty much all winter in Sheffield with Ogre with my LGMs and they were so confidence boosting. Your pads sounded great on the huddersfield ride, they were biting like a right vagina (alot). Seemed perfect. It's only since they've worn funny you're having problems.

Edited December 5, 2011 by dann2707

[SamKidney]

Theyre all nice and level now Dan, and still they don't show any improvements.

I'm incredibly unlucky braking wise. Your LGMs did perform as described, mine just wont.

[Pugson]

Id just get the disc, spend the cash and get a good one. Or just list the water. U. Don't ned maggie bleed kit our magura blood. The antifreeze ur putting will stop freezing, but it wont stop expansion through heat quick will affect the brakes feel and performance. Get a syringe from ur local chemist, and some cooking oil, its cheap, won't freeze, and will cope with any slight changes in temp.

[Azarathal]

Cooking oil is too thick and sluggish.

If you're going to syringe bleed you might as well get proper oil. Get some Citroen lhm clutch fluid, it's the same stuff as royal blood and costs about £10 for a litre from Halfords.

[SamKidney]

Well Ive got my wish list completed.

Deciding on giving my Magura a revamp.

• Bleeding with Royal Blood
• Keeping my TR rim
• Finding the thinnest Metal cutting disc I can
• Light to Medium sharp Grind
• Heatsink CNC Yellows ( Only the refills, I have Heatsink backings here )
• Standard Magura clamps with Echo SL Cylinder washers
• Maybe a 2 bolt booster depending on how the brake performs.
• 4 finger lever

Sound decent?

[alistair14]

Well Ive got my wish list completed.

Deciding on giving my Magura a revamp.

• Bleeding with Royal Blood
• Keeping my TR rim
• Finding the thinnest Metal cutting disc I can
• Light to Medium sharp Grind
• Heatsink CNC Yellows ( Only the refills, I have Heatsink backings here )
• Standard Magura clamps with Echo SL Cylinder washers
• Maybe a 2 bolt booster depending on how the brake performs.
• 4 finger lever

Sound decent?

do it (Y)