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2011 Pure Questions


Andeee

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Hey there looking at buying a 2011 denger pure frame

My questions are:

Has anyone tested 18:16 gearing? Even though tarty states 18:15 specifically ?

Middleburns on cloud 9 bash should it be ok? I.e no catching on the slave cylinder.

Hope pro2 will it fit in the drop outs? Due to the pro2 having fat fun bolts on them

Whats the best stem to run on them? As i have tr bars and a 10mm stacker

Thanks Andy

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Hey there looking at buying a 2011 denger pure frame

My questions are:

Has anyone tested 18:16 gearing? Even though tarty states 18:15 specifically ?

I think one of our customers did and it didn't really work out, unfortunately. I think they may have ended up using a half-link to get it to work, but I can't remember for definite.

Middleburns on cloud 9 bash should it be ok? I.e no catching on the slave cylinder.

We had an issue with someone's setup recently where they were using some screw-on cranks with an 18t sprocket on and that hit the BB yoke because of how far inboard the sprocket's teeth sit. You may possibly have a similar issue with a Cloud9 setup, although I don't know for definite - I haven't seen one in person for ages so I don't really know how far in the sprocket sits compared to a FFW crank with a screw-on sprocket.

Hope pro2 will it fit in the drop outs? Due to the pro2 having fat fun bolts on them

Tried that for a customer on Friday - it fits perfectly. It's almost like it was made for it. King fun bolts have a wider base to the spacer under the bolt head and they catch a bit, but Pro 2s are perfect.

Whats the best stem to run on them? As i have tr bars and a 10mm stacker

Something like a 125 or 130 x 25 stem seems to work well. Stan's using a 125x25 stem with Try-All carbon bars and a 10mm spacer (I think it's a 10...), and that feels awesome. Cap's got the TT High Rise bars with a 130x25 and that feels pretty good too. I don't really think you need to go all out and run a mod stem on a Pure frame, even though it seems fashionable for people to run mod stems on stocks these days. It's "only" a +55mm BB, not +70mm like the Sky 2 so you don't really need the extra height.

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Thanks for the answers Mark i appreciate it :).

The crank situation is my main concern... Ive been running square taper middleburns for many years with a 128mm axle b.b, on frames like the gu typhoon 06 and zoo piranha 09 i have noticed on the L/H crank arm can seem to catch on the slave cylinder.. to resolve it i had to lightly grind my crank arm which felt horrible but it had to be done espically when they cost over £100 for the arms!!! lol.

As i am thinking of upgrading me arms to isis im running 170mm atm but could running 175 give better clearance and improvement to my power of riding if thats a way to put it?

Thanks Andy

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If those square taper 'burns are old, then that might be why you're having problems - they don't have much offset as it is, so if the tapers have stretched a bit 'cos they're getting on a bit they'll just end up sitting further and further on.

Like I said, it's mainly the sprocket clearance that'll be your problem. You can grind a bit of meat off the BB yoke 'cos there's a lot there, but obviously that's not ideal. 16t should clear though, so I guess you could possibly switch to 16:14, maybe. That would involve buying a new bashring though. Regarding ISIS Middleburns, you'll need to look second hand - they've stopped making them it seems. That's the RS7 in general. We had some on backorder for forever, and eventually they told us they weren't making that model any more.

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If those square taper 'burns are old, then that might be why you're having problems - they don't have much offset as it is, so if the tapers have stretched a bit 'cos they're getting on a bit they'll just end up sitting further and further on.

Like I said, it's mainly the sprocket clearance that'll be your problem. You can grind a bit of meat off the BB yoke 'cos there's a lot there, but obviously that's not ideal. 16t should clear though, so I guess you could possibly switch to 16:14, maybe. That would involve buying a new bashring though. Regarding ISIS Middleburns, you'll need to look second hand - they've stopped making them it seems. That's the RS7 in general. We had some on backorder for forever, and eventually they told us they weren't making that model any more.

They are 4 years old the arms... So would a 16tx14t ratio be fine on the 2011 pure? Ive always sworn by burns the years ive been riding these new modern cranks which all run on a screw on sprocket dont look safe in my oppinion.. Id mainly be concerned if the thread on the crank was to strip but its just me being awkward on modern products. But whats the best/strongest screw cranks available? Ill obviously get a bash ring aswell like.

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They are 4 years old the arms... So would a 16tx14t ratio be fine on the 2011 pure? Ive always sworn by burns the years ive been riding these new modern cranks which all run on a screw on sprocket dont look safe in my oppinion.. Id mainly be concerned if the thread on the crank was to strip but its just me being awkward on modern products. But whats the best/strongest screw cranks available? Ill obviously get a bash ring aswell like.

If your getting the Pure, you would have to change to isis.

Integrated BB.

Id strongly recommend the Trialtech Sport Cranks.

Strong, good looking, full array of lengths to choose from and perfectly priced.

You wont have a problem with threads stripping. Look at the beef Watson gives his.

Also, Id run 18-15. With TT cranks you wont have a problem with cylinder clearance, and its a great gearing too.

175mm cranks, 18-15 gearing. Done.

Edited by Echo Lite 09
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Also, Id run 18-15. With TT cranks you wont have a problem with cylinder clearance, and its a great gearing too.

175mm cranks, 18-15 gearing. Done.

As I said before, it's not the cylinders that'd be the problem:

We had an issue with someone's setup recently where they were using some screw-on cranks with an 18t sprocket on and that hit the BB yoke because of how far inboard the sprocket's teeth sit. You may possibly have a similar issue with a Cloud9 setup, although I don't know for definite - I haven't seen one in person for ages so I don't really know how far in the sprocket sits compared to a FFW crank with a screw-on sprocket.

They are 4 years old the arms... So would a 16tx14t ratio be fine on the 2011 pure? Ive always sworn by burns the years ive been riding these new modern cranks which all run on a screw on sprocket dont look safe in my oppinion.. Id mainly be concerned if the thread on the crank was to strip but its just me being awkward on modern products. But whats the best/strongest screw cranks available? Ill obviously get a bash ring aswell like.

I think 16:14 works, but you might have to use a half-link. I'll double check with Stan though 'cos he was the one who initially dealt with the guy we knew running it.

Other than that, Trialtech cranks are pretty good especially considering their price. Try-All do a centrally-toothed (whatever it'd be called) 16t sprocket too, which might be a safer bet than running a conventional one with offset teeth.

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I am currently running a 2011 echo pure with a pro 2 with 175mm trialtech cranks trialtech alloy bash and trialtech screw on sprocket 18:15 and all the spacing seem to be perfect. The only issue I had was with brand new heatsink pads the crank arms clipped the slave when it was weighted, after one ride the pads had bedded in enough to alow me to move them in a touch and problem solved! Nice solid reliable setup i might add to.

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