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Wheel Keeps Moving


Kieran Morrison

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The problem is everytime i adjust my snail cams, and tighten the wheel bolt pretty hard, ill go on the bike and the brake will be rubbing. Ill go off it and the pads are nowhere near the rim. I noticed that when i put pressure on the pedal, the wheel moves over to the non-drive side of the frame, causing the brakes to rub. The snail cam on the non-drive side has a few notches but then it goes flat/smooth. I think this is the problem (it slips because its smooth), but i dont see how its doing it, after all some people use completely smooth cams :ermm:

And whenever i tighten the wheel bolt one at a time, the wheel moves over to the side i have tightened and its really annoying, i get everything set up perfect then it screws up

Please help, its been doing it for ages and i cant ride :(

cheers.

Edited by Kieran Morrison
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The problem is everytime i adjust my snail cams, and tighten the wheel bolt pretty hard, ill go on the bike and the brake will be rubbing. Ill go off it and the pads are nowhere near the rim. I noticed that when i put pressure on the pedal, the wheel moves over to the non-drive side of the frame, causing the brakes to rub. The snail cam on the non-drive side has a few notches but then it goes flat/smooth. I think this is the problem (it slips because its smooth), but i dont see how its doing it, after all some people use completely smooth cams :ermm:

And whenever i tighten the wheel bolt one at a time, the wheel moves over to the side i have tightened and its really annoying, i get everything set up perfect then it screws up

Please help, its been doing it for ages and i cant ride :(

cheers.

Mine did this.

New snail cams, and get your wheel trued so everything is aligned perfectly :)

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Cheers :)

Im buying new ones somepoint this week, im gonna try cut more notches where the smooth part is so i can ride till i get new ones

Sounds like your chains too short if your using the smooth part of the cam.

Im guessing your using the Echo TR cams?

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I had this problem years ago when I first started, it could be one of these three reasons or a combination:

A. What frame do you have firstly? There is a chance that one dropout/chainstay is twisted a little, it isn't unheard of that a small handful of frames just come like this from the factory. But I'd hazard a guess that bending/twisting could've come just from neglect and/or harsh riding.

^If so, that could be the main culprit as it's a fairly big problem in the flatland world. Bent dropouts and chainstays aren't good at keeping axles in line.

B. If that doesn't seem the case, check that your axle is sat perfectly evenly in the dropouts. So pull the driveside cam as far as it'll go and then pull the non driveside cam an equal amount as possible. Just wedge different sizes of allen keys into the space between the beginning of the dropout slot and the axle. One certain sized allen key (can't say which 'til you've tried as it depends on your set up) should have a tight snug fit in either side dropouts' gaps. This is to ensure your axle is even in the dropouts. If your rim is over to one side, just dish it over 'til it's straight and even.

^When I first started out, I thought that aligning the rim centrally inside the frame was the a good method (horizontal dropouts). So even though the rim lined up against the pads nicely, the axle in the dropouts was fairly angled pretty biasedly to one side. So I had to readjust my wheel very often as it'd slip. Then, I was advised that having the axle centered in the dropouts was more important and that I could just realign the rim centrally to the pads and seatstays by dishing and a bit of truing. Worked a treat! No more wheel slip, just because I centred my axle.

C. Snail cams and axle washers need changing. If A and B aren't the culprits, just bite the bullet and buy a new set of snail cams and serrated axle washers. Not too expensive, and should be a lot more secure than a smooth axle washer and haggard old cams. Trialtech actually make some CNC'd toothed cams, it's on their site, but I can't remember the last time I saw it stocked on any site :mellow:

Shit that was a long post. But I hope it's of help! (Y)

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I had this problem years ago when I first started, it could be one of these three reasons or a combination:

A. What frame do you have firstly? Echo lite 2009 There is a chance that one dropout/chainstay is twisted a little, it isn't unheard of that a small handful of frames just come like this from the factory. But I'd hazard a guess that bending/twisting could've come just from neglect and/or harsh riding.

^If so, that could be the main culprit as it's a fairly big problem in the flatland world. Bent dropouts and chainstays aren't good at keeping axles in line.

B. If that doesn't seem the case, check that your axle is sat perfectly evenly in the dropouts. So pull the driveside cam as far as it'll go and then pull the non driveside cam an equal amount as possible. Just wedge different sizes of allen keys into the space between the beginning of the dropout slot and the axle. One certain sized allen key (can't say which 'til you've tried as it depends on your set up) should have a tight snug fit in either side dropouts' gaps. This is to ensure your axle is even in the dropouts. If your rim is over to one side, just dish it over 'til it's straight and even.

^When I first started out, I thought that aligning the rim centrally inside the frame was the a good method (horizontal dropouts). So even though the rim lined up against the pads nicely, the axle in the dropouts was fairly angled pretty biasedly to one side. So I had to readjust my wheel very often as it'd slip. Then, I was advised that having the axle centered in the dropouts was more important and that I could just realign the rim centrally to the pads and seatstays by dishing and a bit of truing. Worked a treat! No more wheel slip, just because I centred my axle.

C. Snail cams and axle washers need changing. If A and B aren't the culprits, just bite the bullet and buy a new set of snail cams and serrated axle washers. Not too expensive, and should be a lot more secure than a smooth axle washer and haggard old cams. Trialtech actually make some CNC'd toothed cams, it's on their site, but I can't remember the last time I saw it stocked on any site :mellow:

Shit that was a long post. But I hope it's of help! (Y)

Cheers for that mate :)

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Is there anything i can do with the cams i have to make them last a day or 2 until i get new cams? i hacksawed some notches in (well, i just sawed a litle line in every 3 or so mm) today but that never really worked. Anyone?

Would it help to change them about? or make them click in the opposite direction? (they are being pushed forward when im standing opposite the fron wheel if that helps)

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