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Pads For Bad Conditions?


Aidan97

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Rock blues have been my pad of choice for a while. Work very well in the wet, better than i do in fact.

It depends on soooo much!

i ran rockman blues on a tt rim and they were rubbish.......on an echo tr rim..beast.

lgms on a echo rim..not very good......on tt rim...ace.

its about everything,bleed,lever length,clamps,rim,grind,set-up

but yes rockmans are very good also lgms are good

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It depends on soooo much!

i ran rockman blues on a tt rim and they were rubbish.......on an echo tr rim..beast.

lgms on a echo rim..not very good......on tt rim...ace.

its about everything,bleed,lever length,clamps,rim,grind,set-up

but yes rockmans are very good also lgms are good

Lever length and clamps make little to no difference on how well your pads perform over another pair.

Getting a decent pair of pads is only half of the problem, most brakes i've seen over the years have been set up so badly i reckon a gibbon could do a better job. If people aren't going to take the time to learn how to do simple maintenance on their bikes and DO IT WELL then pad choice makes little difference.

At the end of the day, you can get just about any pad to work well if you spend a little time and care of how you set it up. I've had a massive amount of pads over the years... plaz crms, rock blues, zoo pads, LGMs, coust pads, heatsink yellows+reds+blues+snowies, phat pads, tensile bubble gums, koxx browns+greens+yellows, onza citrus, joypads, superstar pads, and finally my own neco pads. There's probably more i've forgotten as well but only 2-3 sets that were actually shit. The rest worked better than most other peoples brakes and i very rarely have a brake that doesn't work.

The difference is i don't bash them on in 5 minutes and go out on them expecting miracles from the start. I used to spend ages (30 mins upwards) doing each part of the brake, getting the lever in exactly the right place, making sure the bleed was perfect, ensuring the grind is immaculately done and making sure the pads are PERFECTLY aligned to the rim. Obviously i can do it a lot quicker now after 7 odd years riding but i took the time in the beginning to learn properly and it paid off big time.

I might have waffled but basically i'm saying most pads can be made to work well, i know rims make a slight difference but not enough to say a certain pad won't work well on that rim at all and if its been ground then rim material usually only affects how long the grind lasts, not a pads performance (unless running smooth).

What i said previously was out of all the pads i've used rock blues have been the best peformers and are the pads i stick too now as they've proven themselves to be excellent on a variety of rims and frames that i've used. If i was buying again i'd be getting rock blues and fitting them in cnc backings. Hence my suggestion.

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These topics get on my tits... To be fair this one hasn't gone the way of so many but I was riding some old Zoo pads on a smooth rim on Saturday in the wet and they slipped once - that was down to me being a prat and not tightening up the bolts enough on one side, leading to a shift in the calliper on setup for a gap. Still hit the gap and still had all the bite and hold I needed.

Set your brakes up correctly. Clean your pads and rim.

Ride your bike like you're riding in the wet (which you are). Water is slippery, get over it.

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These topics get on my tits... To be fair this one hasn't gone the way of so many but I was riding some old Zoo pads on a smooth rim on Saturday in the wet and they slipped once - that was down to me being a prat and not tightening up the bolts enough on one side, leading to a shift in the calliper on setup for a gap. Still hit the gap and still had all the bite and hold I needed.

Set your brakes up correctly. Clean your pads and rim.

Ride your bike like you're riding in the wet (which you are). Water is slippery, get over it.

BAM! JD tells it how it is (Y)

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