Tioz Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Hi guys..I've finally got to go single speed but have got a problem with setting up the tensioner The tensioner is this one: http://www.tartybike.../c48p11211.html standard version The problem comes as it has no pins so I don't know how to set it up correctly on the dropoff Photos to explain As you can see no pins Could be set like this.. Or like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 you have it up side down,fixed part should be pointing forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 you have it up side down,fixed part should be pointing forward. Thanks mate but still the same problem of not knowing how to align it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 There's only really one way it can go on. The best way is to rotate the long arm up as close to the chainstay as possible, then tighten the main bolt. Once you've done that, loosen the little 4mm bolt on the end of the arm and adjust the sprung arm (which is what gives you the tension). Pretty much all there is to it! Not having a pin is a good thing as it allows you to get it a lot more compact and neater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 There's only really one way it can go on. The best way is to rotate the long arm up as close to the chainstay as possible, then tighten the main bolt. Once you've done that, loosen the little 4mm bolt on the end of the arm and adjust the sprung arm (which is what gives you the tension). Pretty much all there is to it! Not having a pin is a good thing as it allows you to get it a lot more compact and neater. What sort of angle should there be between fixed arm and sprung arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Whatever you need so your chain's tight. That'll depend on your gear ratio, frame, chain age, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) Whatever you need so your chain's tight. That'll depend on your gear ratio, frame, chain age, etc... I'll just have to experiment then..great thanks mate Also..how do I measure the chain to the right lenght? Edited June 16, 2011 by Tioz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bip Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) The thing about the TT tensioner is, yes, it has no pins - "yay" if you've ever broken a pin! It uses a rubber washer or sorts to hold itself in place when you tighten it down... your mileage may vary as to how well it holds though. The angle should be as close to the chainstay as possible without actually causing the upper jokey wheel to touch the sprocket so you can maximise chain wrap. For minimal hassle you'd probably want the long version if you can't run it right up against the chainstay with the standard, for example. Doing it this way negates any possible issues you may have with the tensioner moving. With regards to chain length, just get it as short as possible whilst still being able to connect it. You can guestimate it by hand first without the tensioner mounted. You shouldn't need to account for extra length just for the tensioner unless you're gear ratio is so awesome you could almost get by without a tensioner. Add an extra link if you're not sure. Edited June 16, 2011 by bip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) The thing about the TT tensioner is, yes, it has no pins - "yay" if you've ever broken a pin! It uses a rubber washer or sorts to hold itself in place when you tighten it down... your mileage may vary as to how well it holds though. The angle should be as close to the chainstay as possible without actually causing the upper jokey wheel to touch the sprocket so you can maximise chain wrap. For minimal hassle you'd probably want the long version if you can't run it right up against the chainstay with the standard, for example. Doing it this way negates any possible issues you may have with the tensioner moving. With regards to chain length, just get it as short as possible whilst still being able to connect it. You can guestimate it by hand first without the tensioner mounted. You shouldn't need to account for extra length just for the tensioner unless you're gear ratio is so awesome you could almost get by without a tensioner. Add an extra link if you're not sure. from what I can see in the photo of the inspired he's keeping fixed arm and sprung arm practically in line..would it actually manage to give enough tension to the chain this way?The spring pushes "up" so it's not really pushing on the chain that way I seem to figure out Edit: no I figured it out and it would work fine like that ^^ Edited June 16, 2011 by Tioz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bip Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) Hehe, yeah it's an illusion You can set the spring tension as strong as you like if you don't have the chain threaded or its off the front sprocket. What you do is undo the pinch bolt and rotate the bottom arm clockwise towards the 6-9 o'clock position, the closer to 9, the more tension. Redo the bolt and remount the chain. Make sure the chain line stays good whilst you're fiddling though. Edited June 16, 2011 by bip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 (edited) Hehe, yeah it's an illusion You can set the spring tension as strong as you like if you don't have the chain threaded or its off the front sprocket. What you do is undo the pinch bolt and rotate the bottom arm clockwise towards the 6-9 o'clock position, the closer to 9, the more tension. Redo the bolt and remount the chain. Make sure the chain line stays good whilst you're fiddling though. Great m8! I'll have to buy a chain from halfords today What do the different measurements mean? 1/8", 3/16", 3/32"? Is any of these ok and compatible? Also do you think I should have got the long version of the tensioner? Edited June 17, 2011 by Tioz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 And wich one of these chains would you get as best price/quality? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=148&SortBy=Price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 You only really need the long arm version if you've got around a 15+t sized rear sprocket. For the best clearance with your tensioner a 3/32 chain would be best. The Z610HX is the one to go for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) I was just wondering..wont the fixed arm risk turning under the tension of the spring as it has no pins to hold it? Edited June 18, 2011 by Tioz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 I was just wondering..wont the fixed arm risk turning under the tension of the spring as it has no pins to hold it? No,because any turning would only tighten it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukasMcNeal Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 You really need to fit it and understand how it works and fiddle with it abit to get it right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 You really need to fit it and understand how it works and fiddle with it abit to get it right! Yeah it's on now! :lol: Only problem now are the darn back brakes damned tektro... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukasMcNeal Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Yeah thats right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 How much better would a pair of SD7 be over the stock tektro? Power and ease of setup How much better would a pair of SD7 be over the stock tektro vees? Power and ease of setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 If you don´t know how to set them up,they won´t be any better.and Shimano vee´s are better in general,just saying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioz Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 If you don´t know how to set them up,they won´t be any better.and Shimano vee´s are better in general,just saying... It's not that I don't know how to adjust them..it's that the darn things just move around on their own and keep losing the setting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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