crashbanggg Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ireson75 Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Luverly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmax04 Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Crashbang, can't wait too see it fully built! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 It's now got brakes on and one crank. Brake hose didn't even need lengthening! Just waiting on CRC order and the shifters which were sent today, so Thursday sounds like the target day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmax04 Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Good call! Glad you went for the xt kit. Those mechs are brill! Only thing i would say is that the stem looks fairly high. But then again, I like a low front end and i know nothing about the geo of the beast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 I have considered a shorter stem when on the old bike, but I guess time will tell wheter or not its needed on this one For the rear mech, how tight does the bolt that attach need to be? On my old bike I can swivel the mech where it attaches to the hanger freely but it isn't so with this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 For the rear mech, how tight does the bolt that attach need to be? On my old bike I can swivel the mech where it attaches to the hanger freely but it isn't so with this one...Don't worry about it not swivelling in the same way as an old style mech, its the 'Shadow' system. Don't do crazy tightening the bolt, just nip it up tight then keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't rattle loose. More info about the Shadow system is here The info relevant to answer you're question is: "Finally, gone is the bulky pivot bolt and spring arrangement. The top mount is now fixed, to limit forward movement of the mech. Great news - no more mech clatter as the body can't bounce off the bottom of your chain stays. A silent bike is one step closer! The mech retains a 'b tension' screw to adjust your angle of dangle, if required." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Snip Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 New bits on! Now for the part im dreading... gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Rear mech's are fairly straight forward to setup, you just need to take your time and do a bit of fine tuning. Follow this guide, it may be for SRAM but the method for Shimano is the same. For best shifting results run a full outer and make sure you lube the inner cable before running it through the outer When sorting out your chain length don't forget that with full suspension you will usually get some chain growth when you compress the suspension. You can just let all the air out of the shock and compress the rear end to check this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Snip When running the full outer, do I leave the last little bit without an outer? As in the last little section of the mech. And would something like general purpose lube be sufficient for the inners? You can probably tell i'm completely new to setting up gears! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 On most frames the gear cable guides will be set up to have breaks in the outer, the idea of this is to reduce friction however it also means it's easier for dirt to get into the outers. If you run a full outer with no breaks in it all the way from the shifter to the rear mech, the cabling will stay clean for longer. Lube the cable up with something like Finish Line Wet chain lube to reduce the friction between the cable and the outer. The only disadvantage of running a full outer is that you will probably have to run the cable alongside the cable guides rather than through them, to do this you can buy something like this or this or you can just use cable ties. If you're feeling brave you can also drill out the frames cable guides to make it possible to run the outer through them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) Everything on! Rear Gears: Shit Hot. Front: Absolutely awful but I cant work out why Simply doesn't appear to reach the third cog! And seconds a bit of a push to get in EDIT: Better picture Edited May 26, 2011 by crashbanggg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmax04 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) Adjust the barrel adjuster on the shifter all the way in so it is at 0 adjustment. Then remove the cable from the front mech anchor, check the limits by hand (look down the granny should be in the middle of the mech, and if your strong enough pull the mech out to check the big ring. If ok pull cable tight (not so tight the mech moves) and re-secure onto the anchor bolt. Try shifting now. If the mech struggles to shift up, more tension is needed (anti-clockwise adjustment on barrel) like wise, if it wont shift down, less tension is needed. Hope that does it Bike is looking awesome! Edit: looks like you have the front mech very high! It should be about 2-3mm off the top of the big ring when its in top gear to. Edited May 25, 2011 by trialsmax04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Snip I'll have another crack at it tomorrow im sick of them now Another question: How the f**k are you meant to split those sram chains at the powerlink thing? The book iv got makes it sound as if it should slip apart no problem with minimal force...that isn't happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmax04 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 When new there an absolute b*****d. The best way i have found is to squeeze the plates together gently when squashing the link appart. It is tricky and last chain i fitted was a right git! Chain tension looks ok though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 I fitted it without taking any links out and did a rough putting it through the biggest cogs and deralliurs and it was ok. But lookign at this guide it says I don't need to put it through the rear deralliur, so I assumed that would make a big difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmax04 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Im not sure i follow you on that one?Sorry read it properly. Ive never done it like that before. Ive always ran it through the mech when sizing it up as to avoid the mech being over stretched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) When I measured the chain up for size, ran it through the rear derailur as well as the largest cogs, however the park tools guide thing says to not run it through the rear delarriur: Shift the front derailleur over the largest chainring, and the rear derailleur on the smallest cog. Thread the new chain through the front derailleur. It is not necessary to thread the chain through the rear derailleur at this point. Simply wrap the chain around the largest front chainring and around the largest rear cog. Pull the chain tight, and note the closest rivet where the two could be joined. Keep in mind a chain can only be joined by mating inner and outer plates. From that I then assumed my chain would be too long as I ran it through the derailluer too? Edit: Your're right it seems ok, so I may as well leave it until it causes issues Edited May 25, 2011 by crashbanggg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmax04 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Tripple set-ups are always a ball ache. As long as the chain isnt hanging off the bike whilst in the granny and 9th (never use that gear anyway), and the mech isnt shitting itself in 3rd up front, and first out back. Good to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey1991 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 I've got a triple ring up front but i never use my big ring ever... Really like your though, very nice looking bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Ok... My high adjustment screw is right out in order to let the mech go wide enough for the third ring. My barrel adjuster has to be unscrewed a very long way to allow for upwards shifts, but then its not enough for the downward shifts. It kind of works if I find a compromise position (Between 2nd and 3rd ring) but shifting up to 3rd makes a lot of grinding noises and takes a very long time to actually engage. And it wont shift to 1st ring at all. I've also moved the mech as low as it will go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmax04 Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Hmm, what size bb are you running?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Something really odd has happened... I got in just now and had a quick play on the bike and the gears worked perfectly, 'Oh Dad must have had a play' I thought, turns out he hasn't touched it! Must be the gear fairy? Tis' very strange... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Front mechs are stupid. They SHOULD be the simplest thing in the world to set up, but they never work properly. On the other hand, 9 or 10 speed rear mechs ought to be a nightmare to get the indexing right yet they work perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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