Gaz96 Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 I know you to prevent frame flex putting a booster will sort it but right now I cant afford one... I'm not worried about the performance of the brake right now its just my frame flexes a lot and was just wandering how bad this is? Because surely it must stress the weld's at the rear axle and where the seat stays meet the top of the rear triangle? Can it get to a point where it'll snap there? or am I just exaggeration and it'll be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 Depends on the frame really. People say mine flexes quite a bit but i like the bite i get that not running a booster gives me. With the right pads and grind it gives the same amount of hold as people running boosters so i get the best of both worlds. If you're really on a budget though just measure up your frames mounting holes. Draw a horseshoe shape and get cutting! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aluminium-sheet-plate-200x200-x-5-mm-thick-grade-en485-/300535675685?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item45f9527b25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 Can it get to a point where it'll snap there? or am I just exaggeration and it'll be ok? If its flexing sufficiently then it will eventually crack (typically at the top of the seatstays), most modern frame designs overcome this problem by adding gussets, tube design or built in booster. I never used to use a booster on my zoo boa and it cracked at the top of the right chainstay. Depends on the frame really. People say mine flexes quite a bit but i like the bite i get that not running a booster gives me. With the right pads and grind it gives the same amount of hold as people running boosters so i get the best of both worlds. Likewise for my frame, infact you can sponge the lever to the bars with minimal effort, however I too like the bite, it still holds perfectly (thank you RB lever ) and a too stiff brake gives me tendonitis in my fingers to prefer the softer feel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 If its flexing sufficiently then it will eventually crack (typically at the top of the seatstays), most modern frame designs overcome this problem by adding gussets, tube design or built in booster. I never used to use a booster on my zoo boa and it cracked at the top of the right chainstay. Likewise for my frame, infact you can sponge the lever to the bars with minimal effort, however I too like the bite, it still holds perfectly (thank you RB lever ) and a too stiff brake gives me tendonitis in my fingers to prefer the softer feel You got the older carbon RB lever dude? The lever sponge effect is largely due to the clamp flexing on the bars. If you jubilee clip round where the hose goes into the lever body to attach it to the bars it barely feels flexy any more. My RB is the same, though i wouldn't be without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 You got the older carbon RB lever dude? The lever sponge effect is largely due to the clamp flexing on the bars. If you jubilee clip round where the hose goes into the lever body to attach it to the bars it barely feels flexy any more. My RB is the same, though i wouldn't be without it. Yeah its the carbon one, I prefer to keep the flex in there though as it helps with the tendonitis/arm pump. Also my frame is naturally more flexible being titanium, doesnt have the same fatigue issues as aluminium though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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