l33th3tr33 Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 (edited) I've got a lynx frame and monty hub, and have to use washers in between the caliper and frame to line it up, would I be better off spacing the hub out on the dropouts instead to get a better line up? EDIT: Fail. I'd have to put the snail cam on the outside of the dropout to remove the washers, would it stress the frame too much if I did want to do that? Edited May 4, 2011 by l33th3tr33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 It might be ok, but you'd pull the brake mount (calliper) even further out of alignment with the disc. Are you sure the monty disc hub is 110mm, as both the monty rear disc hubs on Tarty are 106mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l33th3tr33 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 It might be ok, but you'd pull the brake mount (calliper) even further out of alignment with the disc. Are you sure the monty disc hub is 110mm, as both the monty rear disc hubs on Tarty are 106mm. Sorry, forgot to say the snail cams add up to 10mm. It's just that my rear hope doesn't bleed very well. I'll bleed it, push the pistons all the way out, cap back on and fit pads. then the lever just hits the bar, so I have to leave the pistons out so far so that it can get some bite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 It should bleed well, if it's not then either the seals are screwed or you aren't bleeding it right. They can be a pain. But spacing the calliper over because you've got the wrong rear hub really isn't ideal in the slightest! A hope wont feel as good as it can until you face the mounts on your frame, bleed it correctly and have it mounted so the rotor sits central in the calliper; without using a shed load of washers to space it over! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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