monty221ti Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Hi, My try-all cranks is comming loose and i cant tighten the bolt more than it is? i tried to put a spacer between the crank and bb, it worked but when i turned the cranks backwards it was very tight. I also tried to put some monty 221 cranks on without a spacer and they are also pretty tight, what could be wrong? Also, is it possible to change bearings on a fsa platinum pro bb? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 The Tryall ISIS BB is fully serviceable so it may be worth removing it from the frame and stripping it down to check the bearings, axle and case to see if anything is damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 thanks! the try-all cranks is going totally on if you understand, the spline on the bb is going all the way in to the crank so the bolt cant be tightent more? (sorry for my bad english) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.KYDD Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Sounds like your missing the axle spacers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 the green ones? they are on. by the way, its only the non-driveside crank there is comming loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trials Punk Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I understand where your coming from. The matter how hard you tighten the crank, it is still loose? How old are the cranks? Are they worn at all? Could you take a picture of the crank/bb to give people a better idea of what is going wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) the cranks are aprox a year old, but they dont seem to be worn, going out to take some pictures now. Edited April 21, 2011 by monty221ti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) this is actually the problem, when i tighten the crank, i am pressing the green spacer to the bearing? this is the same problem with the try-all crank? Edited April 21, 2011 by monty221ti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Think you wanna remove the BB and make sure it is all together as 1 piece as it looks like the spacer has come out and is loose if you get what I mean?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 the spacer is not loose as i tried to take it of put it was stuck, but maybe it could have moved a bit out? i will try to take it out and see if it's ok, when i have the bb tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 There are two problems here: 1. Using spacers between the crank and the stopper on the BB axle means that you are effectively running your crank loose. ISIS has a 1 degree taper, the cranks need to be run either tight with a small gap, or (when they are old) butted right up against the spacer on the BB axle. It sounds like your crank may have stretched a bit It's not catastrophic though, it will still work fine for ages. Just making people aware that putting spacers on your axle is a sure fire way to reduce the life of your cranks! 2. If your BB is a 122.5mm model, I believe there may have been a batch which weren't 100% at some point in the past. The centre sleeve of the BB is a little too long, which means that when cranks are new the BB runs fine, but when your cranks bed in and butt up against the green spacer, it side loads the bearings and makes the BB feel awful/stiff. It's hard to spot since when you take the crank off and BB out, the side load from the bearings is removed and the BB spins fine again. The solution is to machine down the centre sleeve (around 0.6mm from memory) so the bearings aren't side loaded any more. If you got the BB from us then feel free to send it to us and we'll sort it for you free of charge. Cheers! Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 (edited) the bb was from you but i'm not the one who bought it:( i think it's the 127.5 version but not sure. Otherwise i could take the bb out and take the spacer of, and file it a bit?? but i dont know how. Edited April 22, 2011 by monty221ti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Hmm, I think it will be the 122.5mm version, as this never happened on the 127.5. Anyway, if you take the BB out and take it apart, you will see two 'steps' on the axle. Measure this distance. Then, the black centre sleeve that has the Red Try-All sticker on it, measure the length of this. They should be the same to within about 0.1mm. If not, then you can use a file to reduce the length of the spacer. Not as neat but it will work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 i should file a bit of the green spacer right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 No, you need to leave the green spacer alone. It's the BLACK spacer with the Try-All sticker (the bit that you can't see until you take the BB out of the bike). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 oh, okay, i will try to take it apart when i have time to do it. can i just take i apart with my fingers or do i need some specific tools for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 You will need some tools. Vice, mallet (NOT a hammer), pieces of wood/aluminium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 how do i take it apart then? take the nondriveside cup of, ant the what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Yes. Then the drive side, then both the bearings off. Take the BB out of the frame then it should become obvious If it doesn't become obvious, don't just bash at it, take it to someone who knows what they're doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 As Mark told me, open a vice and sit the BB on the driveside cup then knock the axle down with a mallet to remove the cup and get at the bearings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 tried that with a fsa platinum pro, didnt work, smashed the bearing to pieces:( but the fsa may not be one that you can service? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 the fsa may not be one that you can service? Correct. The bearings are integrated. Try-All uses cartridges: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/bb_spares/tryall_bottom_bracket_bearing/c103p10371.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty221ti Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 another problem:( the try-all crank on the nondriveside. when i put it on i can tighten the bolt until it meets the bb axle, so when i tighten the crank al the way in and the bolt is tight, the crank is lose ("nocking" a bit side to side) is my crank busted og can i fix this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ateam Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 tried that with a fsa platinum pro, didnt work, smashed the bearing to pieces:( but the fsa may not be one that you can service? I smashed my FSA, or I should say destroyed mine by riding. It was replaced free with a Trial Tech. I still needed the BB tool to remove though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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