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At Wits End With Discs.


Azarathal

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Ok guys, going to be my last thread for a while, since moving to discs I feel like such a bikenewb again.

Front disc, old style lever mono trials. The hope brakes I've felt seem to have very little lever travel, mine pulls in a bit further than I'd like and was wondering if I could fix this via bleeding?

Rear disc, new style lever mono trials. #5 caliper with a +20 adapter so I can run a 160rotor on the rear. The rotor is too far to the left, and is close to rubbing. Without shaving any material off my frame / adapter I can't think of how to fix this?

The right pad is quite far away and I'm guessing this is the reason why my lever pulls in quite far? Or is it just my shit bleed?

After having my banjo bolt pop off and ruin new pads the other day, I've had to put new pads in and rebleed. I thought I'd done this perfectly, wrapped everything in tissue and had no visible spillage, now it seems both my front and rear discs are slightly contaminated, when they're wet they work flawlessly but as soon as they dry out they honk like a bitch, shall I just keep dragging the brakes + pouring water on them?

Cheers for any help and sorry for the wall of text.

Edited by Azarathal
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Ok guys, going to be my last thread for a while, since moving to discs I feel like such a bikenewb again.

Front disc, old style lever mono trials. The hope brakes I've felt seem to have very little lever travel, mine pulls in a bit further than I'd like and was wondering if I could fix this via bleeding?

Rear disc, new style lever mono trials. #5 caliper with a +20 adapter so I can run a 160rotor on the rear. The rotor is too far to the left, and is close to rubbing. Without shaving any material off my frame / adapter

Is it old? Maybe some of the seals are getting tired too. Some of them can be swapped out, I believe.

A fresh bleed is always a good starting place if your brake feels a bit off.

As for the second thing, no combination of washers will fix that, something needs to be modified. Mind you, if it doesn't rub, the old 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' springs to mind.

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Is it old? Maybe some of the seals are getting tired too. Some of them can be swapped out, I believe.

A fresh bleed is always a good starting place if your brake feels a bit off.

Was bled recently, it's a good bleed it just pulls in slightly further than I'd like.

As for the second thing, no combination of washers will fix that, something needs to be modified. Mind you, if it doesn't rub, the old 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' springs to mind.

The right side pad is quite far away and the lever pulls in almost to the bar, I assume this is just a shit bleed though.

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The old mono trials are pretty flexy (well mine is) once its bitten you can then pull the lever to the bars, you can physically see the lever flexing and the caliper spreading. The new design are supposed to be much better.

You cant fully adjust the bite point/lever travel on the old mini lever but you can adjust the lever reach via grub screw in the brass lever barrel, this does affect how the lever feels; if you wind it right in, it will bite sooner.

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Ok so I'll just leave my front brake alone.

Ive watched the hope vids, I'm just wondering if it is a shit bleed or because one pad is so far away?

Also, anyway to stop the honking front brake? Disc cleaner and drag it?

The pads need to be equidistant from the disk and need to be hitting at the same time, if you have a sticky piston one may not move as freely as the other. If theyre both moving freely then you need to set it up properly, getting the disk mount faced can make a huge difference.

Nick woods method of burning the pads off in a tin of meths seems pretty sensible, you need to properly degrease it to get rid of the oil, possibly leave the pads to soak in the meths for a little while. With the disk I just soak them in a shallow tray of solvent degreaser (cellulose thinners works well - couple of quid for a small bottle from wilkos, probably do the pads with it aswell), let it dry off and bung it in the oven for 20 mins at 150°c or so.

Edited by forteh
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Have you got the tiny little hope shims? thats how ive sorted out my pads being odd distances from rotor. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=356

"Range of stainless steel shims and washers used to fine tune your Brake Caliper spacing and centralise it on the disc. Poorly aligned brakes can cause brake pad rub and squeal."

Edited by dirt jumper jake
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Have you got the tiny little hope shims? thats how ive sorted out my pads being odd distances from rotor. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=356

"Range of stainless steel shims and washers used to fine tune your Brake Caliper spacing and centralise it on the disc. Poorly aligned brakes can cause brake pad rub and squeal."

It's the left hand pad that's too close, adding shims would make it worse

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I shall, the shop I work at doesnt have the tool but I'll go to my local CycleZone.

I love it when 'bike shops' don't have the tools you need to do a job properly.

EDIT: Sorry, in a bad mood, back to chit chat for me...

Edited by JDâ„¢
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I love it when 'bike shops' don't have the tools you need to do a job properly.

EDIT: Sorry, in a bad mood, back to chit chat for me...

The shop owner is such a stingy f**k, bike stands falling apart, useless wheeljig etc, I'm only there 'cos I choose my hours and get paid cash.

Adam, I think I'm going to be ordering another set of pads :/ I cba with it anymore, I might just get cyclezone to do it while I've got cash to burn, once I've finished work I don't want to touch my own bike :P

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Yeah, ive never had any training nor have I encountered problems like this before, even on my old bike with a Marta on the front.

Yeah that's fair play, just curious (Y) Seems odd that there is nobody there who can help though, could give Hope a ring for some tips?

just wonering . why?

I've only ever taken my bike to a shop for work once before, and never again. I have also worked in a few and know what most mechanics are like! I am sure there are good mechanics out there, but if you are able to do the work yourself then I don't see the reason to take it to a shop.

I guess I should probably what I said above to 'I wouldn't trust any bike shop with my bike, apart from maybe a rear shock servicing, for which I would take them just the shock anyway :P'

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