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Geometry Of A Bike? Explain?


Carlperkins

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Here we go (don't take this as gospel, I try to just ride whatever I'd got):

Wheelbase: In millimetres, measure from centre of front hub to centre of rear hub. Longer = Better for ups and gaps, Shorter = Flickier, more streety

BB ride: Measured in millimeters above an imaginary line between the hubs. Higher BB = better on back wheel, Lower = better on 2 wheels

Chainstay Length: Millimetres from centre of BB to centre of rear hub. Shorter = quicker up to back wheel, twitchy once there. Longer = harder to get on back wheel, more stable once there

Head angle: Angle of forks. Steeper (closer to 90*) = more flicky/twitchy. Slaker = slower to turn, more stable

That's all I can be arsed with now.

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JD is pretty on it but that often means very little to someone who does not already know that stuff. Geo should be Dependant on your riding style, for instance say you are average height and build and want a stock bike, if you want to ride streety stuff you should look for a short wheelbase and chainstay with medium height bb and steep head angle for example 1035mm wb, 380mm cs, +15mm bb, 72 ha. This will be very easy to bunnyhop and spin but not so easy for static moves.

if you want to ride tgs then a long wb, high bb and still a pretty steep headangle would be good (1090, 385, +60, 71). this will be very easy to balance on the back wheel so is good for gaps and sidehops and the steepish head angle will make taps and front wheel moves easier.

if natural is your choice then a bike similar to that of a tgs bike but with a low bb and slacker head angle will be best (1090, 385, +15, 70) . this allows better stability on two wheels.

obviously this is subject to preference and some people who are used to one style will be more comfortable using it for all styles than the bikes designed for what they are doing. but this is a good set of guide rules

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