Alex Dark Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Sooo, I decided to try and get my machining skills up to scratch recently. Started making a few little parts for the steed in the lunch hour / some that don't exist yet...some that do and I just wanted to have a bash at . First little project was for my trialtech fork and new zhi stem ( same as the try-all 3d forged ). I wanted to retain the threads inside the steerer ( so no jamming a star not down there! ) whilst using the cool sloped top cap. The idea I came up was this: 1. Machine a lump of billet down to the right OD, ( after a quick call to Tarty , cheers! ) I got the thread size. After some piddling around with the CNC lathe I took it down to the m12 x 1 thread the forks use. Uploaded with ImageShack.us 2. I stuck the threaded section into the manual lathe and drilled a 5mm hole straight the way through, then I used the tail stock to sticka tap through it to get the M6 threads for the top- cap bolt. 3. I chucked the threaded section into the manual mill and made a small flat so I could drill accurately into it. Then drilled through with a 3mm bit near the base of the threads. 4. While I was using the mill I machined a flat onto the M6 bolt about 1/3rd into its diameter and 1/2 way up its length ( leaving the first few threads intact ) 5. Then tapped the threaded section out to M4 and inserted a grub screw ( from a pre 05 magura reach adjustment ). The M6 bolt now goes through the top cap into the threaded section and tightens into it. You turn the milled section of the bolt towards the grub screw and tighten the brub against it to hold it captive. Hey presto, an adjustable 5mm head m12 x 1.0 adjustable length bolt. Works great Second Project was some homemade magura mounts because I didn't fancy spending £20 odd on some Echo TR mounts. These were relatively simple to make, and actually work pretty well haha. They look a little ghetto at the moment, but I havent had time to really finish them off yet. 1. First step was to turn the central hole out. I clamped the billet into the lathe and drilled out he centre, increasing sizes until I got to 19mm. I then used the internal boring bar to take the centre out to 24mm I think it is? First one I used a fairly slow chuck speed, but second I was less concerned and took it up to 1220. Hence why ones got such a smooth bore finish. 2. All the downwards milling was done now to give the stepped shape. I used a 12mm 2 flute end cutter to give the castellated style shape. Did one side, then flipped. Also milled the ends down to the same protrusion from the central hole. 3. I then turned the clamps in the vice press so the tip of the mount lined up with the top. this gave me a datum so all the angles would be the same. Again I milled downwards with the end cutter. Uploaded with ImageShack.us 4. Now I had a roughly maggie mount shape I started on the bolt holes. Unfortunately we have no 5mm milling bits so... I used a 10mm cutter to centralise the head with the middle of the magura mount ( the billet I used was 10mm thick so when one edge was lined up I had the centre. Then I marked and drilled with a 5mm drill bit straight through at each end. I then changed to a 4mm end cutter and elongated each hole until they met cleanly. flipped the mount and repeated. 5. Now the mount had it's rough shape I set about cleaning it up. I used a higher speed and some WD40 to skim the places where it would contact the bolts / frame and the top of the mount and then started fly cutting the outside. 6. A Junior hacksaw was then used to part each side of the mount apart. I then skimmed the bottom of each mount to remove the burrs from cutting. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Fly cutting is such a great technique, it gives the most beautiful CD like finish to aluminium, especially when you use WD40 as a lubricant. ( Imagine a strimmer with a blade ). I took 0.3mm off the outside of each mount, and I was pretty much finished ( at least for now ) I plan to take a bit of material off the top, maybe a 3mm cutter through the centre a la old Echo CNC mounts. I was really chuffed with these though. When I got my new Zhi Z3r frame I had one problem... my Chris King hub refused to fit in the frame, the axle caps were the tiniest bit too big. Instead of filing them down I thought Id just make my own . These had to be the easiest thing to make, and were only done to take up the waste material from the project below. I used 2d design to draw the shape, then exported to our Routercam. Unfortunately the depth sensor was a tiny bit out, so I had to punch through 0.5mm of material to get the beggars out. They turned out pretty well and certainly do their job. I was only going to use them for Sunday, and make some on the CNC lathe this week, but I guess there's no point if they work! I also made my adaption of an RB designs booster.....slightly more crossover protection and a nub at the front that covers my hydro splitter nicely Works REALLY well, but I forgot to smooth the edges and took a small chunk out of my leg on sunday with it Also need to finish fly cutting the top surface of it. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Ill be updating this topic with whatever else I make in my lunch breaks haha so do comment be it negatively or not! I could do with the feedback. Edited March 15, 2011 by Alex Dark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Nice one Have done a few similar top cap adaptors to that in the past, usually just tap an M6 thread up the centre then hammer a 5mm allen key into it - it broaches a short (few mm) allen key fitting into the thread so you can fit the adaptor, then screw the top cap as normal into that thread. Looks like you have done M18 x 1.0 (which is the correct thread size), just thought I'd pop that in for search-friendlyness... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Nice one Have done a few similar top cap adaptors to that in the past, usually just tap an M6 thread up the centre then hammer a 5mm allen key into it - it broaches a short (few mm) allen key fitting into the thread so you can fit the adaptor, then screw the top cap as normal into that thread. Looks like you have done M18 x 1.0 (which is the correct thread size), just thought I'd pop that in for search-friendlyness... Aha that's a great idea. I was wondering about broaching actually. Did you heat when you did that Adam? Piss, I knew i'd get that thread size wrong :$ Cheers for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Great stuff, Al. It's always wicked seeing people cruelly get off their arse and make/mod parts, just wish I still had access to all the kit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Aha that's a great idea. I was wondering about broaching actually. Did you heat when you did that Adam? Piss, I knew i'd get that thread size wrong :$ Cheers for that No need, just give the end of the allen key a tap with a mallet and it'll do the job easily Hehe, no worries. It looks like you've made it M18 though from the proportions...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) No need, just give the end of the allen key a tap with a mallet and it'll do the job easily Hehe, no worries. It looks like you've made it M18 though from the proportions...? Aha, I will try that.... I was wondering about making some crank bolts that way I have made it M18, it fits the forks perfectly haha just me being dozy and forgetting the thread size Edit: new stuff being uploaded in a minute... few other pictures. Edited March 15, 2011 by Alex Dark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Aha, I will try that.... I was wondering about making some crank bolts that way Pretty sure you will need a 'proper' tool to make crank bolts, as you'll be torquing them down quite hard... with the fork insert, there is no resistance at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oli P Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 I have done a similar thing with the forks but instead of a grub screw just put a nut either side of it to keep it in place. Also made some snail cams over the weekend to fit my Pro 2 hub without having to jam them in the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Sorry for the minor hijack alex, but I wanted to join in Ive made tonnes of stuff over the years, alot of it was crap but it was all a learning curve My dad started me off with simple machining on a watchmakers lathe at about 6 years old, by the time I was 12-13 he let me loose on the miller and lathe in the workshop, used up alot of his aluminium stock, smashed a load of cutters but had fun The last piece I made in there was when I was 17 or so, was a stem for my mountainbike. Material cost me 2.50 from an autojumble and I think I spent about a day and a half doing it all in. Was very slow going because my dads miller is pretty old and knackered. 1/2" backlash in all of the lead screws, all of the slides are so worn that you need to lock the gibstrips up otherwise the whole table chatters, a flat belt drive that constantly slipped and the main drive motor was an old 3phase thing, running on single phase so you couldnt start it up with any load otherwise it tripped the house RCD, instead you had to lift the weight off the v-belts (it was mounted on a hinged frame), start the motor and slowly lower it down - the motor weighed best part of 70kg which is a fair amount when your 13! The top clamp is a completely flush fit when you have some bars clamped in there, its a hefty old beast but its strong and not much more than the cnc'd offerings at the time. All of the pocket was with a 2 flute slot drill, taking no more than 1mm cuts (the machine flexes that much! You can see the chatter marks on the inside wall of the pocket), the outside of the piece was finished by draw filing by hand, took a long time to get it to that finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Would anyone be up for doing a custom booster for me as my maggie mounts are braze on and I wont be able to fit a standard 4 bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 *cough* maggie mounts with built in booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 The bits look really nice, serious skillage. But pleaaaaase get a needle file on those burrs, they're annoying me just in the pics . Are you still riding your project frame btw? Cheers, Josh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oli P Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 (edited) Thought I would keep this thread going with some Pictures of some stuff I have made to bulid up another frame: Snail cams designed to fit my Hope Pro 2 hub with nylon washer to keep the non driveside cam in place. DSCF1431 by Oli_P, on Flickr DSCF1426 by Oli_P, on Flickr I also had to make some V mounts that would bolt straight onto the 4 bolt mounts by making custom posts and adapters. The first set were not high enough at the back and the V-brake arm hit against them where the pads mount. Managed to get the second pair just right and I am very happy with how they turned out. DSCF1412 by Oli_P, on Flickr DSCF1413 by Oli_P, on Flickr DSCF1419 by Oli_P, on Flickr DSCF1421 by Oli_P, on Flickr DSCF1422 by Oli_P, on Flickr DSCF1423 by Oli_P, on Flickr Edited March 28, 2011 by Oli P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ireson75 Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 That looks really profesional, nice work! Man I would love to have access to a cnc cutter!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshtp Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 what I wouldn't do to have access to a machine shop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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