Josh - Sarge Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) Hi. I have a Diamondback Kubuki mono. Im fairly new to riding trials. I have been out in the garden back wheel hopping and brakes didnt grip on one of the hops and I found my self on the floor!Brake now doesnt work at all although I can see the brake pads moving? I have had problems with the rear brake since I got the bike, so I had a bike store look at it and they bled it. I still needed to pull the lever all the way back to the handlebar to brake properly. The shop told me the brake was old and would need replacing soon. I now need the bike ready for tuesday so must get it fixed but i dont think its worth spending money on if it will break again. Its a magura rear v brake (hs33). If anyone knows anything I could do cheaply I will give it a bash though. I think I need a new brake but which one to get. I have around 100 pounds to spend. My bike has the capability to have rim or disk brakes. Which one should I get and which brake will be the best for my budget and good durability????? Help would be appreciated. Thanks Josh. Edited March 2, 2011 by Josh - Sarge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials owns Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) sounds like a crap rebleed and air has gone into the system hence you have to pull it to the bar. give it another rebleed but before check the hosing and pistons to check if it is leaking (make sure tpa is all the way out). if that doesnt work it could be slow pistons........give then a lube up. if that deosnt work then make sure your pads are close to the rim......... Edited March 2, 2011 by trials owns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForrestDump Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) sounds like a crap rebleed and air has gone into the system hence you have to pull it to the bar. give it another rebleed but before check the hosing and pistons to check if it is leaking (make sure tpa is all the way out). if that doesnt work it could be slow pistons........give then a lube up. if that deosnt work then make sure your pads are close to the rim......... And if none of that works try and get hold of a new Magura HS33, I've heard 2011 HS33 do tend to slip so try and get a pre 2011. Is the diamondback a 26"? If so then a Magura (or similar product) on the back will be the best to go for compared to a disk. Edit: You can always buy new pads that suit your rim (smooth or grinded) too to increase the efficiency of your brake. Edited March 2, 2011 by ForrestDump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 And if none of that works try and get hold of a new Magura HS33, I've heard 2011 HS33 do tend to slip so try and get a pre 2011. Is the diamondback a 26"? If so then a Magura (or similar product) on the back will be the best to go for compared to a disk. Edit: You can always buy new pads that suit your rim (smooth or grinded) too to increase the efficiency of your brake. I dont know where you heard that from but I dont think its true, I run 2011 Hs11's and find them a lot better than my 05 ones I used to use. With a budget of £100 if it comes down to buying a new brake id advise a single 2011 HS11 (as it comes with a 4 finger lever blade, around £60 from tartybikes), a pair of TNN LGM pads (£30) and give your rim a grind if you havent already. Also if you havent already got one keep an eye out for a 2 or 4 bolt brake booster on here as that should help the brake as well! And going off your original post maguras and v brakes are 2 completely different things, maguras are hydraulic rim brakes and v's are cable operated but can be just as powerful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForrestDump Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 I dont know where you heard that from but I dont think its true, I run 2011 Hs11's and find them a lot better than my 05 ones I used to use. A friend of mine mentioned it. Well it's good to hear positive things about them encase mine pack in one day, but in my opinion I do prefer the look of the pre 2011 Magura's, but that's just my personal taste. And thanks for the correction; I’ll know for the future when advising or buying for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 A friend of mine mentioned it. Well it's good to hear positive things about them encase mine pack in one day, but in my opinion I do prefer the look of the pre 2011 Magura's, but that's just my personal taste. And thanks for the correction; I’ll know for the future when advising or buying for myself. No worries, Ali C and Mark W even said they prefer the 2 finger 2011's to 4 finger 05's but I'd prefer the longer lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomturd Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Sounds to me like its just set up wrong. You shouldn't be able to pull the lever back to the bars. Some steps to diagnose: 1. When you pull the lever (even just a little bit) do the pads move immediately? If not, then you need to rebleed the brake. 2. Once the pads have made contact with the rim, can you still continue to (fairly easily) pull the brake lever towards the bar? If you can, or it feels 'spongy', then you need to rebleed the brake. 3. If neither of the above then the bleed should be fine, you just need to twiddle the TPA adjuster adjuster so the pads move closer to the rim. However, If your TPA is broken (most likely), you need to undo the evo-clamps, push the pistons closer to the rim, and tighten the clamps back up. Back in the day, the done thing was to use a penny as a rough guide for the distance you need between the pad and the rim. Its bloody fiddly though. There are some guides on TF on how to rebleed the brake, Find a member called 'Revolver' and look at his signature, there's a link to his guide there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh - Sarge Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Thanks for all the help I think the TPA may be broken because its completely jammed, so I will have a look at that and I may look at re-bleeding it. How does anyone rate bleeding it with water out of interest??? And would you be able to do it this way with oil??? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomturd Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Thanks for all the help I think the TPA may be broken because its completely jammed, so I will have a look at that and I may look at re-bleeding it. How does anyone rate bleeding it with water out of interest??? And would you be able to do it this way with oil??? Thanks again. Learning to rebleed a magura is a pretty good idea, a life long skill You can replace the TPA with a bolt if it has snapped - try searching for TPA bodge on here. There are also loads of topics about using water in a magura. Generally seems people prefer the 'snappier' feel of water over oil, and how much damage it may or may not do to your brake is in dispute. Personally.. being old fashioned, I'd stick with oil. You could do a bath bleed with oil.. if you had a shit load of oil and dont mind getting oil absolutely everywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Find a member called 'Revolver' and look at his signature, there's a link to his guide there That's me! It's in my sig! Water bleeds are perfectly fine. It's cheap and easy to do, and can be done at any time. People have even water bled brakes in fountains. Coming later this year: How to bleed your brake with a syringe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh - Sarge Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 That's me! It's in my sig! Water bleeds are perfectly fine. It's cheap and easy to do, and can be done at any time. People have even water bled brakes in fountains. Coming later this year: How to bleed your brake with a syringe. I water bled in the end and happened to find your video and used it. Turns out that you then post and its ur video, haha thanks was very helpfull and brake is working now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 I water bled in the end and happened to find your video and used it. Turns out that you then post and its ur video, haha thanks was very helpfull and brake is working now Good to here you got it sorted dude, and for free as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh - Sarge Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Good to here you got it sorted dude, and for free as well! yeah I was well happy. Been out on it today and was really fun thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juhoman Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 About that bath bleeding: There is always little air in the water especially if it is fresh tap water. I speculate that if you leave your bike to stand for winter, the air "un-dissolves" from the water and the brake needs a rebleed. My brakes had mountains of air in them after spending a winter in my room. While the brake is used the pressure keeps the air dissolved in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I'm not so sure about that. Air is a lot less dense than water so it will always rise above it. It's true air comes out into your bath when you run the tap but then it rises as bubbles and leaves. If air is mysteriously getting into your brake, it's leaking. Mine's been water bled... since I made the water bleed video, and it's not lost any water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juhoman Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) Tap water has air in it just like carbonated water has co2. There might be a way to get rid of it with some addition though. My brake is fine after a bath bleed, but for how long? *insert dramatic chipmunk here* EDIT: After some investigations i found this. Air Solubility to Water with dfferent temperatures. So bleed your brake with boiling water and off you go. Edited March 8, 2011 by Juhoman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I guess, it makes sense. Perhaps the reason my brake hasn't needed rebleeding is because I use warm water to bleed it with, because I don't want to have my hands in ice cold water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradJohnson Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 go to tarty bikes and buy the 2011 magura hs11 rim brake its £60 and comes with olives an evo 2 adaptor(and a foot too much hose ) but its easy to shorten without emptying the fluid i've just bought it its great i cant fault it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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