sstein Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hey people, need some advice. I am running front and rear bb7s, the front is great and gives me all the power i would want. The rear is crap. It only seems to give me any proper power if the rotor and pads are hot at the time, which means if I stop riding for a minute or more, when I start again I need to ride round with the brake on for a while to warm it up again. It is really getting on my nerves and it means I dont have confidence in my bike (which is brand new). If it continues I may have to braze on a maggie mount which I really CBA with. Anyone have any ideas why it is playing up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam T Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 A few people tend to say bb7s are not as powerful on the rear. MY opinion would to be to upgrade to something hydrolic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ9604 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Definatly upgrade to a hydralic rear will the best yoiu can do with a nice sized rotor like 180+ the bigger the more power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) I've never felt a decent rear bb7 'cos the longer cable seems to feel spongey. Edit* 160 front and rear for a mod is more than enough. Dont some mods actually use 140's? Edited February 6, 2011 by Azarathal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Yeah, well I'm on a 24" bike using a 160mm bb7 on the rear and it works fine! Have you tried the old, whipping the pads and disc out and cleaning them and then bedding them in again thing? Or the chuck some wet mud in there and ride down a hill thing? Edited February 7, 2011 by Revolver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 I'm running stock with 203mm rotors. I have not tried the cleaning because both the pads and rotors are brand new and have only just been bedded in. As I said the power is fine when it is warm so I dont think it has anything to do with the fact that it is cable. any other ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Arnold Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 water. hill. water. hill. water. hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjsuperg Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 if you insist on running a cable rear disk, try using the stiff 2.0 derrailer cable housing. you can wind that up with two bar spins and the brake still works fine. it's a really stiff housing. also make sure your pads arent contaminated and are hitting flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 if you insist on running a cable rear disk, try using the stiff 2.0 derrailer cable housing. you can wind that up with two bar spins and the brake still works fine. it's a really stiff housing. also make sure your pads arent contaminated and are hitting flush. Running a linear slic already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Running a linear slic already. That's not what he suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 They are the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjsuperg Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 They are the same thing. They are NOT the same thing. I have the same brakes on my freeride/skatepark bike and had the same problem with a linear slick cable. Lenosky turned me onto the mech cables. night and day difference. they dont compress like the slick does. Dont ask for advice if you already know all the answers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Why not put the rotor and pads from the front onto the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hey people, need some advice. I am running front and rear bb7s, the front is great and gives me all the power i would want. The rear is crap. It only seems to give me any proper power if the rotor and pads are hot at the time, which means if I stop riding for a minute or more, when I start again I need to ride round with the brake on for a while to warm it up again. It is really getting on my nerves and it means I dont have confidence in my bike (which is brand new). If it continues I may have to braze on a maggie mount which I really CBA with. Anyone have any ideas why it is playing up? I struggle to see how cables can affect this. I do not have a problem with power per se, only the power when the brake is cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Then rub mud all over it and ride down hills getting it hot and pouring water over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjsuperg Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 if your pads have glazed, gritty mud or water and sand and ride down some hills. some semi metallic pads will act like this if contaminated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) I had a bb7 on the back of the triton for a while because I wanted to try DD, it had reasonable bite but zero hold, set up as best as it could be and bedded in, the only time it seemed hold was if it was wet. Gave up and used a maggie, far better edit: I was using gear cable outer to resist the compression and heavy duty gear cable inner (as recommended by alic) to resist the stretch. Edited February 8, 2011 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I'm in the BB7's-just-don't-work-on-the-rear gang. But - the cable housing could make a difference. It works when it's hot 'cause it bites more. If you have a stiffer outer cable, more of your lever pulling will go directly to the pivot, rather than being wasted in outer flex. If more of your power goes to the brake, where it's needed, it'll feel easier to pull, which lets you pull it harder for the same amount of effort, which'll result in more power. Maybe you won't feel the difference if already have a slic, but going from a super shit one to a good one DOES make a difference. If you can afford it though, hydraulic (read: Hope) all the way, or back to a rim brake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I cant use a hope because the old ones are IS (I run horizontal dropouts so it is not ideal) and the new ones seem to be pure shite. Anyone tried an SLX for rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I cant use a hope because the old ones are IS (I run horizontal dropouts so it is not ideal) Is that a problem specific to your frame? Every rear disk mod out there runs horiz drop outs, as well as the likes of the Yaabaa 1499 (had no probs when I ran a Hope), Koxx Red Sky, Hydroxx etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) It will work, it is just not ideal as the wheel never seems to be exact which is required for IS mounts, also it means that my mounts need facing. What I tend to notice with most bikes that run hopes on horizontal is that they rub like a bitch (i know people have just not been bothered to set them up properly). I would really just rather not run IS Edited February 8, 2011 by sstein Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Well fair enough... Though it was never an isue with mine, as long as the snailcams/tensioning system are adjusted the same, the wheel will be straight and it will work well and not rub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepo09 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 In my opinion the best answer to your problem is upgrading to hydro brake maybe try a hope they are awesome on the rear if you have the cash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Well fair enough... Though it was never an isue with mine, as long as the snailcams/tensioning system are adjusted the same, the wheel will be straight and it will work well and not rub. Cams might make it easier, unfortunately I run a bit of a weird system. I run a single tug on the drive side as well as a 74 kingz (my chainstays are too long to begin with, I dont want to have to pull the wheel back really far in the dropout as well) and on the disc side I don't run a tensioner at all, so it is more a system of doing it by eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Oh right, what frame is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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