quick_spider Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I've rebuild my ET and bolted a Hope Mono Trials onto my Pashley forks which Clive Leeson welded a disc mount onto... Sadly there's a crack propagating from the top of the disc mount around the fork leg. I've got another set of Pashleys (with the V bosses lowered) which I could get another mount welded on - would redesign the disc tab to come further up the fork leg to try and prevent the same happening again. Is it worth sticking the mount on the opposite side/leg so the braking force wont be concentrated on a stress riser? Alternatively, what 24" (or 26") forks are a similar geometry/weight. Not fussed on rim brake mounts, but wanting to keep the cost down. Ta Jon (Bear in mind I've not followed any of the new products in the past 4 years or so!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Dale Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 cookies and cream mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick_spider Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 cookies and cream mate Funny guy! Any metallurgists know if I can stress relief anneal the forks after the mount is welded on as I have a vacuum furnace at my disposal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Gibbs Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Inspired or Trialtech. No more need be said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 On the indetity tuning forks (near identical to pashleys in appearance), they extended the disc mount so spread the stress. I had both versions, shorter mount ones cracked like yours, longer mount kept going Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Funny guy! Any metallurgists know if I can stress relief anneal the forks after the mount is welded on as I have a vacuum furnace at my disposal! Avoid this by bronze welding the mount on? Annealing depends on whether the froks are fusion welded or bronze welded/fillet brazed. If they are fusion welded (which I think they may be but not 100% sure, havn't seen pashley forks in ages) then I don't see why not. If they are joined with some kind of bronze/brass filler material then off the top of my head I cant remember what temp you would have to heat them to if you want to anneal them, as long as it is below the melting point of the filler metal, then jobs a goodun I think. Edited February 6, 2011 by Matt Vandart 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick_spider Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Avoid this by bronze welding the mount on? Annealing depends on whether the froks are fusion welded or bronze welded/fillet brazed. If they are fusion welded (which I think they may be but not 100% sure, havn't seen pashley forks in ages) then I don't see why not. If they are joined with some kind of bronze/brass filler material then off the top of my head I cant remember what temp you would have to heat them to if you want to anneal them, as long as it is below the melting point of the filler metal, then jobs a goodun I think. Thanks Matt. The disc mount has been fusion welded on - as are the other joints on the fork. It's already been extended in length a bit like the Identiti ones, but rather than tapering to a point, there's a large rad at the transition onto the fork leg meaning it joins at close to 90 degrees. Will strip powder coat back and see if the crack can be drilled/brazed over. Failing that, I'll go for some new forks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick_spider Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 The disc mount has been fusion welded on - as are the other joints on the fork. It's already been extended in length a bit like the Identiti ones, but rather than tapering to a point, there's a large rad at the transition onto the fork leg meaning it joins at close to 90 degrees. Stripped the powdercoat back - mount is brazed on Getting our resident brazer in work to do what needs to be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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