AdamR28 Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Quote Please note that this freewheel MUST be bedded in with 'normal' riding before trials use, Rockman recommend around 5-6 rides. We also recommend thinning out the grease inside this freewheel after the bedding in period, since the sealed bearings will expel any excess grease when new and this will enter the pawl mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary-mac Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 (edited) On 1/25/2011 at 9:24 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said: I was fair easy on it tonight, does miss even when light riding though but thats to be expected as it needs bedded in. How easy is it do take apart?? get the sealed bearing out?? Edited January 25, 2011 by gary-mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Another out of interest question What holds the bearings in or is it just a press fit into the housing? Obviously the outboard bearing will be held in by the crank/bash but what stops the inboard one moving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 If you suspend the outer over a vice and put a BB tool into the interface, tapping the BB tool will press the bearing out. They are kinda tricky to get back together again though with all those pawls, so I would recommend removing both the seals from the bearings instead (prise them out carefully with a sharp object) and spraying thin lube in through the bearings instead. Give the freewheel a spin as you do it and this should thin out the grease. Yeah, the bearings are press fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 9:44 AM, Adam@TartyBikes said: Yeah, the bearings are press fit. With no circlip or anything? Seems a little brave! Also, is the core steel or ally? The blue anodizing confuses me (easy to do)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 It's steel, which also means it's not anodising And nah, no circlip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 12:55 PM, monkeyseemonkeydo said: With no circlip or anything? Seems a little brave! No real axial loads on it though, so should be alright. Just keep half an eye on it from time to time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 They're quite a tight fit too, so I can't really see them just falling apart or anything. You'd have to basically somehow slide one of the bearings off/out of the shell which I can't really see happening from how tight they are to get in/out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 12:55 PM, monkeyseemonkeydo said: With no circlip or anything? Seems a little brave! That was my thinking, of course its got a way to fall out before it causes issues but I would much rather have seen a retaining lip on the core to stop the inboard bearing moving! On 1/26/2011 at 1:01 PM, Luke Rainbird said: No real axial loads on it though, so should be alright. Just keep half an eye on it from time to time And for the people who dont keep an eye on it from time to time? Im guessing with the steel centre it will have better longevity over a number of dissassemblies but still, its going to wear and the bearings will eventually become loose. Probably be absolutely fine but looking at it in a worst case scenario its bad engineering imho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 12:59 PM, Mark W said: it's not anodising I thought that must be the case! And agreed, a circlip would be fairly unnecessary and would mainly just add weight! As forteh says though, would be good engineering practice to include a retaining mechanism of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bella Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 is there any way of quickley bedding one in as i really dont like them skipping ,also iv never really bed one in befor and never had a problem is this every one that needs bedding in or does it just happen to some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 This is trials/Rockman, "good engineering practice" doesn't often get a look in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 1:16 PM, bella said: is this every one that needs bedding in or does it just happen to some. Mainly this freewheel. On 1/26/2011 at 1:10 PM, forteh said: I would much rather have seen a retaining lip on the core to stop the inboard bearing moving! If you mean what I think you mean, that'd be impossible as you wouldn't be able to put the bearing in or out. The shell's got the ratchet in the middle, of if you put a lip on the outside it stops the bearing from being able to move in either direction at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Profile are now doing 204 point engagement hubs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Old news Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 1:26 PM, Mark W said: Old news I used the search and couldn't find anything posted EDIT, BAH re-searched and found it now, delete and close other topic Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 1:25 PM, Mark W said: If you mean what I think you mean, that'd be impossible as you wouldn't be able to put the bearing in or out. The shell's got the ratchet in the middle, of if you put a lip on the outside it stops the bearing from being able to move in either direction at all. An external lip on the core (same side as the extractor spline), assembly would be be: - fit inboard bearing onto core - fit and retain pawls - fit ratchet ring - fit outboard bearing The outboard bearing would be retained in use by the crank/bashguard and the inboard by the lip on the core. I wouldnt suggest it if it couldnt be done, its what I get paid for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 You might struggle to get the bearing past the pawl seats Ideally a circlip on one side and a lip on the other, but that would add 2-3mm to the width of the freewheel... The bearings have already been custom modified (width reduced) to make the freewheel slim enough. The fit on the bearings is pretty good, falls within H7/p6 spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 1:44 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said: You might struggle to get the bearing past the pawl seats Need to make em smaller then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Fel Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 1:44 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said: You might struggle to get the bearing past the pawl seats Ideally a circlip on one side and a lip on the other, but that would add 2-3mm to the width of the freewheel... The bearings have already been custom modified to fit. What about a couple of tiny grub screws into a small slot/hole in the bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 1:47 PM, forteh said: Need to make em smaller then Struggling to work out how that would be possible... (Unless that's internet sarcasm I've missed!) On 1/26/2011 at 1:52 PM, Al_Fel said: What about a couple of tiny grub screws into a small slot/hole in the bearing? Trials riders + anything that needs a 2.5mm allen key or smaller = fail But yeah, that would probably do it! Not very 'standard practice' but don't see any reason why it wouldn't work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Quote Trials riders + anything that needs a 2.5mm allen key or smaller = fail Haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 2:02 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said: Struggling to work out how that would be possible... (Unless that's internet sarcasm I've missed!) A bit tongue in cheek, it would need a major redesign in order to accomodate what I suggested. You could use a needle roller for the inboard bearing, that way you could keep the pawl root diameter roughly the same size and use a conventional deep groove ball for the outboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Yeah, would need a taper needle to keep it all together I think? Starting to sound expensive Checked the tolerances on the bearing fit and they are good (H7/p6 - see above). I was editing that post when you posted so may not have seen it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 On 1/26/2011 at 3:17 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said: Yeah, would need a taper needle to keep it all together I think? Starting to sound expensive Checked the tolerances on the bearing fit and they are good (H7/p6 - see above). I was editing that post when you posted so may not have seen it... Well I never mentioned cost, proper engineering costs Yeah I did see it, my main concern was once its been taken apart a few times the bearing tolerances will start to slacken as the surfaces wear, admittedly during the life of the freewheel it probably wont be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.