Ben H! Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 Hi, I'm having some trouble setting my pads up on my hs33, Is there a certain way of doing them?, I'm really used to disc brakes rather than rim brakes, But any help would be brilliant, Cheers, Ben. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gage-mann Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_hydraulic_rim_brake_setup/m3.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials owns Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 make sure your chain is the right lengths so it lines up with the clamps and pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H! Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 Cheers, Sorted it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 19, 2010 Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Little extra tip: Get something like a credit card, no thicker, and hold it against the rim where the pad will make contact. Push your slaves in until the full pad it against the credit card, making sure the alignment is correct in the vertical plane. Then, and still holding it against the card, tighten up your brake clamps. Pull the card out and you have a squarely set up brake, the right distance from the rim with the pad making full contact increasing your brakes performance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H! Posted December 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Cheers, Got them sorted out now, Also got another bit of a problem though, I have a pretty much new Magura HS11 (New Version), & it is great but, When the pads are set up correctly & the lever is set up, If you squeeze the lever quite hard it will pull right the way into the bars, It happens even if the lever is fully tensioned up, Can't understand it really Because the brake is pretty much brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John - Hynes Posted December 19, 2010 Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Little extra tip: Get something like a credit card, no thicker, and hold it against the rim where the pad will make contact. Push your slaves in until the full pad it against the credit card, making sure the alignment is correct in the vertical plane. Then, and still holding it against the card, tighten up your brake clamps. Pull the card out and you have a squarely set up brake, the right distance from the rim with the pad making full contact increasing your brakes performance On behalf of 99% of all the people on this forum, all I'll say is that wheels on general tend to be buckled more than 1/2mm either side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Burrows Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Cheers, Got them sorted out now, Also got another bit of a problem though, I have a pretty much new Magura HS11 (New Version), & it is great but, When the pads are set up correctly & the lever is set up, If you squeeze the lever quite hard it will pull right the way into the bars, It happens even if the lever is fully tensioned up, Can't understand it really Because the brake is pretty much brand new. Either the pads aren't close enough to the rim, the frame is flexing loads or there is air in the brake system. When you pull the lever, do the pads make contact quite quickly but then the brake is really spongy and you can keep on pulling it to the bar? That would point to the brake needing a rebleed. What do you mean when you say the lever is fully tensioned up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H! Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Either the pads aren't close enough to the rim, the frame is flexing loads or there is air in the brake system. When you pull the lever, do the pads make contact quite quickly but then the brake is really spongy and you can keep on pulling it to the bar? That would point to the brake needing a rebleed. What do you mean when you say the lever is fully tensioned up? Hi, The pads are definatly close enough to the rim, I can see the slave cylinder pushing out when you pull hard on the lever, The pads do make contact quickly & feels a bit spongy, But Can't really see it needing re-bleeding already as the brake is only about 1 & a half month old Also When I say fully tenioned, I mean that the adjuster on the lever is tightened up & you can still more a less pull it into the bars. Cheers for your help Ben. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials owns Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Hi, The pads are definatly close enough to the rim, I can see the slave cylinder pushing out when you pull hard on the lever, The pads do make contact quickly & feels a bit spongy, But Can't really see it needing re-bleeding already as the brake is only about 1 & a half month old Also When I say fully tenioned, I mean that the adjuster on the lever is tightened up & you can still more a less pull it into the bars. Cheers for your help Ben. when the tpa is all the way out does the pads move freely when punping the lever? your not meant to set the brake up with the tpa and when the tpa is all the way out are the pads still close to the rim? when the brake cylinder moves out when the lever is pressed hard tht is frame flex by the sounds of it, might be worth buying a brake booster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 If i've read what you've written correctly. It appears that you've set up your brakes with the TPA fully out? You'll want to wind the tpa back in and set up your slaves properly again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 On behalf of 99% of all the people on this forum, all I'll say is that wheels on general tend to be buckled more than 1/2mm either side. Has always seemed to work for me, though you can use 2 cards instead to space out the slave if your wheel is buckled by said amount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H! Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) If i've read what you've written correctly. It appears that you've set up your brakes with the TPA fully out? You'll want to wind the tpa back in and set up your slaves properly again. Nope, I said with the TPA fully in, you can more a less still pull the brake lever to the bars. I think there is a bit of flex in the frame but not very much, I think there is air in the system, Will try bleeding it. I set the brake up with where I want the lever to bite at, But it will pull into the bars, I'm probably missing something more to the point though lol. Edited December 20, 2010 by Ben H! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Nope, I said the with the TPA fully in, you can more a less still push the brake lever to the bars. By reading what youve said Id say there was air in the system. Have you re-bled the brake at all in the time you have had it? Id take the brake off, check all the fittings for tightness and then re-bleed the brake and try again. I cant see any other reason why Its doing this, Make sure your TPA is wound to its minimum setting when bleeding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials owns Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Nope, I said the with the TPA fully in, you can more a less still push the brake lever to the bars. could be a dodgie bleed. the frame flex could be causing the lever to go further in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 could be a dodgie bleed. the frame flex could be causing the lever to go further in. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H! Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Ok, WIll try re-bleeding it, & if that fails, I'll buy a brake booster for it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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