chris4stars Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 I asked a while ago but didnt get much response, tried the search and didnt get exactly what i want Im painting my rim. its a white trialtech holed and id like it to be the sort of black finish found on bought rims. Its been disassembled, Id now like to know: what the process is to get a half decent finish...do i nitromorse or just sand? does it matter that i wont be able to get right into the little holed sections? how many coats of primer/paint/laquer (if any for a rim)? any other considerations? thanks...a decent answer would be much apreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) . Edited September 3, 2011 by Echo Lite 09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George.E Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 When I sprayed my rear rim I took the wheel apart, cleaned the rim as good as I could. I wanted a matt black look so just got some matt black from Halfords and just sprayed it like that. It looks great to me, no need for laquer or the rest to be honest. Maby with frames but for rims I would just say spray it. I know this is my way an other people will differ. Thats just how I like to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Literally just about to spray my front rim ( try-all hole ). Stripped it down to bare metal, was going to spray 3 coats of primer, 2 of gloss black, 2 of satin black. Then 2 of lacquer Nice light coats, and make sure the rim surface is nice and clean before you spray. Make sure the rim is hanging up too, makes it a huge amount easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katkin Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) As above with a few changes: Nitro morse 600 paper Acid etch primer 1 coat flash it off with heat gun 2 coats of black (matt) leave for about 10 mins between coats Chuck on some laquer use halfords clear laquer DO NOT LEAVE 30 MINS BETWEEN COATS just flash it off with a heat gun between coats Dry completely with a heat gun (About 10 mins tops) leave for 48 hrs Build wheel. If you have any doubts about my knowledge of painting the see below for some of my stuff: EDIT: ARGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! Stoopid bitch hasn't signed off!!!!!! Edited December 1, 2010 by Katkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Is it really worth using acid etch? How much is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) That ^^^^^^^^ was me by the way. Alex, I find it easier, if you can, to do it on the floor with the wheel upright like it would be on your bike. I then spray at the bottom and roll it along as I spray it. This means there is a more even coat and you do not have any 'shadows' from where you hung it up. Yes Acid etch is better it will stop the paint from coming off so easily. It is fairly expensive but you only need a light coat. It can be found on ebay cheap as chips, Edited December 1, 2010 by Matt Vandart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) Ah right Cheers matt... ah thats pretty clever, stops it running to the bottom as well i guess. Cool, well i think that would be worth investing in then Ill have a browse on the bay Edited December 1, 2010 by Alex Dark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris4stars Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 brilliant thanks, exactly what i was wanting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 I've just finished spraying my h0le rim, and some maguras. Ill chuck some pictures up shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey1991 Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 (edited) Ive done this with a trialtech sport 19" I used Nitro Morse to remove the paint so it was bare metal I then used a fine grade sandpaper to roughen the surfaces of the rim Used 2 coats of grey metal primer (left for 45 mins inbetween coats) Then 3 coats of MATT black ( again 45 mins between coats ) And then 2 layers of clear laquer to give it some shine and protect the other paint layers ( half and hour between coats ) Ground of the paint on the sidewalls to bare metal for good braking surface (not nessesary if you are running disc ) I was very pleased with the end result and would post a picture of the final product but I ended up selling the rim :/ It still looks great today Hope it helps! Edit: The number of coats of black also ensures that it will get into any holes as well as giving a good finish You laquerd matte paint? Was there any reason to get matte paint in the first place if this is what you planned to do. Or am i really missing something here. For the several frames i've done and my car panel i did similar as above. Removed paint, with either heavy grit paper, nitromors or caustic soda. Sand with light grit paper, to heavy and the sanding marks will shows through the paint. Cleaned thoroughly with pre paint or an alcohol cleaner. Removes dirt and grease to allow for better paint adhesion Primer the panels, leaving 10-15 mins between each coat to allow primer to become touch dry. Leave the primed panels for 24hours, then sand with very fine grit wet and dry paper using plenty of water, anything above 800 works the best. The finer the paper the harder the work but the better the finish. Clean thoroughly with pre paint or alcohol cleaner again. Apply paint in thin layers again allowing 10-15 minutes between each coat. If laquering leave for 24 hours sand with very fine wet and dry paper using plenty of water, clean again and apply laquer in the same way you would the paint, leave for atleast 24hours for paint to harden and in your case re-build your wheel. I can't sleep so this gave me something to do. If you want a proper matte or satin finish i'd suggest not laquering. Also remember the more layers of paint you apply the more you can sand off to make it silky smooth, remember to be very careful when sanding between coats, if you go through the primer you need to start over really. Common problems i used to have. Rushing and spraying to quickly, makes the paint run and makes it very difficult to repair. Not leaving enough time before sanding, this takes the paint off completely. Not using enough water when sanding ruins the paint. Not using fine enough sand paper, if the paper you use between coats and before laquering particularly is to heavy it will ruin the paint surface. Edited December 5, 2010 by davey1991 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris4stars Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 great advice davey thanks...looking forward to see how alex's rims have come out with the snow...theres no really rush so im going to take my time and do it over a few days, just reading this and working out what i need to go out any buy need to wait untill the black spokes arrive to figure out if its a matt/sating/shiney finish that looks best....if by chance anyone has a colout hope hube built within a black rim/spoke/nipple wheel..a pic would be most welcome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials owns Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 (edited) little bit of a bump lol, Anyway will probably spray paint one of my rims, Whats the best position to place the rim while painting? just lay the rim on the floor or hang it from some string? Edited September 2, 2011 by trials owns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thispartisrequired Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 If it was me, I'd hang it, assuming its double wall I'd get me a spoke, bend it to a 90 poke it in-between the walls, make a hookyhook on one end and hand it from one of the beams in the garage then spray, if you do it flat you'll have to flip it and that would be a pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials owns Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Ah makes sense i suppose, probs will hang from the washing line when i get around to it cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex-trials-boy Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 (edited) Ah makes sense i suppose, probs will hang from the washing line when i get around to it cheers Make sure thers no clothes on there first Edited September 3, 2011 by alex-trials-boy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomy P Posted September 4, 2011 Report Share Posted September 4, 2011 (edited) I have never used nitromorse and cannot understand why you would want to take it back to metal? I have my own equipment and have sprayed a few cars. Key the surface. Prime. then... Either direct gloss cellulose or base and lacquer. Edited September 4, 2011 by Tomy P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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