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Bike Modification


D Rock 45

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After pulling the thread out on my bike frame two times. I desided to fix it a different way instead of rethreading again. So i drilled straight through my frame were the four bolt would of screwed into. Used a M5 drill bit to make the holes. Then bort M5 x 90mm hex cap bolts to go right the way throught, also M5 nyloc nuts to stop things coming loose .It holds on my brake booster an brake exstremly well no problems what so ever from this modification .

Thort id show you all to see what you think of it.

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P251110_1814.jpg?t=1290718324

Thanks Dieter

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There is also another way. You drill the hole out to 7mm and tap it. Put in a bolt all the way in to the bottom of the frame. Mark the top of the bolt where it meets the frame and cut it off. Then drill a 4mm and tap the out to 5mm. Use the 5mm bolt to tighting up the 8mm bolt into the frame with some loctite on it to hold it in place. Leave to dry over night. And there you go. Basicaly the same but a wee bit more fiddly but more neat to.

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You've put a hole in a tube right where there's a lot of force going through it. This creates a stress riser concentrated at that point, though it won't be quite so bad if the hole is well finished. Your brake may be mounted more solidly, but the seatstay is now weaker than it was before.

ive made a clean job of it , snug fit where the bolts go, they have threaded them self where ive drill through on the bottom . so would you say it was a bad idear doing this mod ?

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You never know, it may last ages and prove to be really effective. Trial and error, as you suggested. Is it a real pig to set the brake up?

i hope so :) . an ye i agreey on the setting the back brakes up . ive set them up an all seems to be fine nice an square to the rim

Edited by D Rock 45
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Its a perfectly acceptable method of clamping the brakes, a helicoil would have been better but theres no reason why it wont work; I would have preferred to see a spreader plate on the underside of the tube though (a section of tube with the ID the same as the OD of the seatstay, cut along the length and drilled). Ive found that brake clamps dont need to be done up that tight, certainly not tight enough to crush the tubes.

You have created a stress riser in the seatstays though, cant say it will crack and cant say it wont, only time and use will tell :)

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as someone mentioned, a little plate on the underside would reduce the chances of a break....just to spread out the 'clamping' force of the nuts on the frame....the force would be reduced at least 10 fold

able to get hold of a small section of half pipe? a hacksaw and a hammer/vice and youre sorted

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Its a perfectly acceptable method of clamping the brakes, a helicoil would have been better but theres no reason why it wont work; I would have preferred to see a spreader plate on the underside of the tube though (a section of tube with the ID the same as the OD of the seatstay, cut along the length and drilled). Ive found that brake clamps dont need to be done up that tight, certainly not tight enough to crush the tubes.

You have created a stress riser in the seatstays though, cant say it will crack and cant say it wont, only time and use will tell :)

as someone mentioned, a little plate on the underside would reduce the chances of a break....just to spread out the 'clamping' force of the nuts on the frame....the force would be reduced at least 10 fold

able to get hold of a small section of half pipe? a hacksaw and a hammer/vice and youre sorted

i will look in to getting these plates make up in college at they do sheet metal work an will be much easyer to make than me attempting to cut a pipe in half

Thanks for all the advice an comments :)

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