Echo Tr 135Mm Hub

[LauraPalmer]

I´m wondering how the chainline ends up with those hubs?

I´m running a H135-hub, with a 128mm TryAll BB, V!Z halfring and an ENO at the moment - to get my chainline perfectly straight i had to use a 2,5mm cogspacer on the rear with a surly cog (7 mm base); that´s why i can´t imagine this would work out well - the H135 is 44mm center to flange, the Echo 35mm... I thought chainline was the reason so many people hated those Deng modstocks with 116mm spacing, but the hub is basically the same for 135 and 116mm, only the hubspacers differ; so a 135mm setup would basically have the same chainline as those 116mm setups had...?

Questions to people who actually use them: do you use a narrower BB with this hub or just don´t care? Are chains and cogs wearing out obviously faster due to an imperfect chainline? Do the axles break faster compared to hubs like the H135 - i know steel vs 7075..., but because of the small flange distance and the resulting long hubspacers?

Edited November 23, 2010 by wimmeretz

[eskimo]

Find out the distance from either the centre of the hub to sprocket or from dropout to sprocket and draw it up on paper. That's what i did with my custom, i got perfect chainline and crank/sprocket clearance with the frame

[Sponge]

There's a useful article on G-Sport's site that goes into mathematical detail about how to calculate the straightest chainline with just a ruler. It works, but it doesn't take into account if the cranks are going to foul with the frame... but that's not too much of a problem on most setups? Unless you're riding a blue GU LE or something.

As for the 135mm TR hub, there's one that's going onto my brother's new Pitbull so I tried eyeballing to see how straight the chainline was with the bare hub and sprocket. Here's what that bike is using;

-128mm Echo TR BB

-Echo SL freewheel

-Echo 135mm TR hub

-Echo TR sprocket

^With that, the chainline is straight I've found. I didn't bother with G-Sport's article this time around for this bike because it seemed pretty darned straight as can be. I think the key was having the Echo TR sprocket which has its teeth sat right in the middle instead of being offset to the outside.

I suppose if you get a matching TR sprocket with the TR hub, and if you don't get an Echo SL freewheel, you could calculate how many freewheel spacers you'd need to put behind your current one to push into alignment with the rear hub/sprocket. I believe TartyBikes has some really useful dimensions for each freewheel on the site showing the overall thickness of each freewheel so you could see how much thicker/thinner your current freewheel is than the Echo SL which seems a perfect couple with the Echo TR hub/sprocket combo as far as getting an easy straight chainline goes.