Rear Brake, Update? Replace? Pad?

[Gibbon on an Orange 2]

Following my thread a few weeks ago http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=157664&st=0&p=2203906&fromsearch=1&#entry2203906

I finally got out on the Zoo for a proper session this afternoon. I was very supprised at how well the old front Mono Mini held actually, it never let me down, so that'll be staying for now.

However, what did supprise me though was how poor the rear brake felt. Little bite, slipping on hold, and felt very spongey (even though i bled it with LHM last week)

The lever and slaves are the original style HS33's but with an aftermarket CNC lever. Brake is set up as straight as i can get it in the mounts. There are no leaks from any cylinder.

I've been looking on Tarty at the different rear brake styles currently available, and they all seem to be going back to the original style where the cylinders are horizontal with the bars and going away from the recent trend of having the cylinder at 90deg to you (strange how hope ditched this layout several years ago in favour of the mini lever...) so basically, all the new styles of lever are now laid out in the same way as mine. So, what are the differences? Do they run different sizes cylinders to increase pad power? Would something like the Echo SL lever work with my old '33 slave cylinders?

I also have a feeling it's the pads (magura red KoolStuff), but looking thruogh the pad reviews everyone has a different setup with a different opinion, so I will probably need a call to TB for a chat about it. But just in case, the frame is an '06 Pitbull, rim is a Trialtech Sport Drilled with a medium grind and Im using a hefty 4 bolt Zoo booster.

Would there be any benifit in a water bleed instead of using LHM? Some of you guys seem to rate it for improved brake feel. I'm guessing with water being less viscous it quickens up the response/release?

Also, I'm suffering from horrific chain skip under power (though only when rolling, not when hopping). I've got a feeling my chain is too beefy for my tiny rear sprocket (Trialtech HX round an 11t Gusset Gachelor) as i can see witness marks on the body of the sprocket between the teeth where the chain has been against it. Trouble is, to change the rear sprocket i would need to change the front too to keep my ratio correct, and that would mean a new bashring, so if it's possible I would prefer to just have to change the chain. I'm already running a dual jockey tensioner to try and remove the problem. I certainly didnt have the issue when i ran a standard sram chain on an old cassete sprocket.

Sorry for all the questions, but I could do with spending as little money as possible on it (student....) so it's not really something I can afford to 'experiemnt' with things until I find something that works, but the rear brake i experienced today really dulled my confidence, which was in tatters anyway to be honest after several years of barely riding.

Edited November 6, 2010 by Gibbon on an Orange 2

[rab shropshire]

for the rear brake i would say a set of good pads will sort out your lack of bite / hold as it happens i have loads for sale the spongy feeling could be a poor bleed.

as for the chain skip how is your chainline looking as this could be a problem

[Gibbon on an Orange 2]

Chainline is as near as perfect as I can see with my eyes. It's straight from the front ring, through the tensioner to the rear sprocket. This is what leaves me confused

[p_ruskin]

Give it a re-bleed with water that will make the lever feel lovely, Also get a fresh grind and a set of Rockpads and your sorted