Rob Leech Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 How much does a reasonable TIG set up go for, I've got a 3 phase socket in the garage for the MIG plant so that's OK and have some basic experience; just fancy a bit of a play... If your looking for AC/DC, you can probably get a decent second hand one for 400-500, which is about a quarter of the price you'd pay for a good ally mig, lol. Just have a look on ebay, or try and find a local welding supplier, they normally have second hand plants knocking around . Cheers matey, Josh. Oh, can you get hold of gas easily enough? Not too easy to find places to get it on the sly now-a-days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Lol, fair do's Ali, anyone have an idea why they've done the downtube gusset like they have though? . They probably didn't know. They are riders, not designers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Looking tidy - I think I'm almost as excited to see this finished as you are haha! To take the thread backwards slightly - can someone clarify the benefits of open-ended vs closed gussets to me please? Not entirely sure which is best for certain applications/why, so an explanation would be cool if anyone would be so kind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Looking tidy - I think I'm almost as excited to see this finished as you are haha! To take the thread backwards slightly - can someone clarify the benefits of open-ended vs closed gussets to me please? Not entirely sure which is best for certain applications/why, so an explanation would be cool if anyone would be so kind Would also like to know this, always seen open ended as a bit of a weak point? Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 I remember reading somewhere ages back that open-ended allows stresses to 'escape' the gusseted region more freely, but since so many manufacturers use different approaches I'm unsure of whether this applies to every situation. If anyone fancies shedding light... In the meantime I'm going to hunt around the net and see what I can dig up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence--Trials Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Can someone please explain to me. What achually is heat treating? and what does it do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_treatment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_treatment Precipitation section you want matey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 Nicely done. It's looking great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indianatrials Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 Looks suuuper awesome! Really good weight too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 looking good, I like the chainstay area. I am going to go back to gussets though. You welded them up completely, is there a reason? It was my understanding they were working best when left open ended and welding them completely can create a stress riser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted November 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 looking good, I like the chainstay area. I am going to go back to gussets though. You welded them up completely, is there a reason? It was my understanding they were working best when left open ended and welding them completely can create a stress riser? Yh, the chainstay bit is my favorite bit of the frame. Iv'e welded the gussets fully because i've seen alot of frames crack where the weld normally ends. It seems that it only takes a small defect in the weld at this point (normally whats called a 'crater crack') to make it crack quite easily. Im not exactly practiced in the whole stress analysis thing, but to me, leaving the gusset open would only put more stress on the weld at the two points where it ends? Not too sure about it if im honest, going on my own experiences, sort of experimenting, will probably leave the gussets open on the next one, see if there's any difference when they're both ride-able. Cheers, Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirt jumper jake Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 (edited) The machine needs to have a pulse setting, its all about removing the oxide layer with ally welding . Like a spot weld setting? EDIT: or as in pulse transfer? Edited November 25, 2010 by dirt jumper jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted November 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2010 (edited) Like a spot weld setting? EDIT: or as in pulse transfer? Pulse transfer, it raises and lowers the voltage very quickly like, which sort of imitates AC characteristics when welding. I wouldnt go near MIG for welding up any frame, wether it be ally or steel, stick with TIG . Cheers, Josh. However, they are very usefull for when your tacking it all up . Edited November 26, 2010 by Rob Leech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julius Czar Posted November 26, 2010 Report Share Posted November 26, 2010 looks shweet as fook man, nicely done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirt jumper jake Posted November 26, 2010 Report Share Posted November 26, 2010 Pulse transfer, it raises and lowers the voltage very quickly like, which sort of imitates AC characteristics when welding. I wouldnt go near MIG for welding up any frame, wether it be ally or steel, stick with TIG . Cheers, Josh. However, they are very usefull for when your tacking it all up . Aye i get you, im still learning at college you see & wish i could afford a TIG, got a beasty Oxford MIG at home for doing stuff on my jeeps n that. we've got a small snap-on (cebora) 160 MIG at work, pretty good for its size actually. what would you recomend TIG wise? ive heard good things about Esab & Murex, but thats probably cos there the same company haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted November 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2010 Aye i get you, im still learning at college you see & wish i could afford a TIG, got a beasty Oxford MIG at home for doing stuff on my jeeps n that. we've got a small snap-on (cebora) 160 MIG at work, pretty good for its size actually. what would you recomend TIG wise? ive heard good things about Esab & Murex, but thats probably cos there the same company haha. Ritey o, fair do's with the oxford, mighty things . Cant really help you on choice, only ever used parweld and lorch, wich are both pretty much the same, apart from the lorch comes up with error codes every 2-3 weeks . But most of our stuff is parweld and never have any problems with them . Cheers matey, Josh. Oh, update in 2 seconds nd all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirt jumper jake Posted November 27, 2010 Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 (edited) Ritey o, fair do's with the oxford, mighty things . Cant really help you on choice, only ever used parweld and lorch, wich are both pretty much the same, apart from the lorch comes up with error codes every 2-3 weeks . But most of our stuff is parweld and never have any problems with them . Cheers matey, Josh. Oh, update in 2 seconds nd all. Ah my lid is parweld cheers man will check them two out Edit: looks mighty nice built up man, nice one Edited November 27, 2010 by dirt jumper jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted November 27, 2010 Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Looks sick dude, I want one! Massive props, you've done a really good job of it. Anything you'd do different next time/have you learnt much through the process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted November 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Looks sick dude, I want one! Massive props, you've done a really good job of it. Anything you'd do different next time/have you learnt much through the process? Cheers matey, im pretty happy with it atm. Yh, bits nd bobs, mainly to do with the angles that the tubes were bent to and the gusseting really. This one took alot longer, but has gone so much smoother than the last, having a decent jig to assemble it in helps so much, lol. Cheers, Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam T Posted November 27, 2010 Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 You are extremely talented, well done! Looks really good built up, wish I could do this sort of stuff in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted December 2, 2010 Report Share Posted December 2, 2010 (edited) Yh, the chainstay bit is my favorite bit of the frame. Iv'e welded the gussets fully because i've seen alot of frames crack where the weld normally ends. It seems that it only takes a small defect in the weld at this point (normally whats called a 'crater crack') to make it crack quite easily. Im not exactly practiced in the whole stress analysis thing, but to me, leaving the gusset open would only put more stress on the weld at the two points where it ends? Not too sure about it if im honest, going on my own experiences, sort of experimenting, will probably leave the gussets open on the next one, see if there's any difference when they're both ride-able. Cheers, Josh. The failure of the skull, if only ONZA had left off the bash mount this frame would a have been a million times better. I believe the gussets are left open for torsional stress reasons specific to round tubes. If you look here: Neon have welded across the end of the gusset as this is not a round tube it will not effect it so much. Or something OOPS! Edit: what I meant to say was..........That frame looks loverly well dode dude i am loving it!! Edited December 2, 2010 by Matt Vandart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted December 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2010 Ritey o, fair do's. I still dont really see a problem with it, my baby pitbull's gussets are welded all the way round and that is probably one of the strongest frames around (seeing as it has lasted nearly 7 years and has been through a long line of riders). I have just seen so many frames crack/snap at this point after a good smack to the downtube, don't really want this to happen to mine . Dont wana argue about it really, it'll be different on the next frames . Cheers, Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted December 2, 2010 Report Share Posted December 2, 2010 Not argueing about it, just saying. It may be to do with the thiness of the tubes also. Anyway what rig you using to weld these frames? What material is it? (as in grade) what Rods you using? what heat treatment process u gonna use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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