Best Rotor For Hope Mono Trial

[CriminalTrials.co.uk]

Ok so this is probably a bit of an odd question as its probably down to personal preference anyway. However i do know that especially for the Avid BB7 most people seem to reccomend using the Hope rotor with the coloured floating centre bit?!

Just wondering if anyone uses a non standard rotor with their hope mono trial? I ask becuase mine has never worked very well with the standard rotor and after recently giving it a complete rebleed due to a lever change it its not biting at all, i did make sure the pads werent in when i bled the brake so they didnt get contaminated, instead i put a block of wood in the gap.

So again has anyone found the brake to work alot better with a different rotor? Im using it on the front of my 26" and its a 180mm Version of the newer style, not the old mono.

Thanks

Danny

[forteh]

Did you put the pads back in the same way round? They could be worn slightly out of square and are no longer contacting properly. Ive never heard of anyone recommending using the alloy centre hope disks for trials, I believe the centre wears very quickly when subjected to trials forces.

FWIW my 06 mono trial works better with the original hope disk.

[Matt Burrows]

If the brake has no bite, changing the rotor will make f**k all difference. Just clean it, and then replace or clean the pads. Then don't forget to bed the pads in afterwards, this can take time and the brake will be poor until its properly bed in.

That is of course assuming that the brake is bled properly, set up perfectly, and there are no leaks anywhere which could cause the contamination. Some people will probably say one rotor works better than another, but there really isn't anything wrong with a standard Hope one.

Also, the Hope floating rotors aren't that great for trials. They can creak and develop play over time, a waste of money really!

[CriminalTrials.co.uk]

Did you put the pads back in the same way round? They could be worn slightly out of square and are no longer contacting properly. Ive never heard of anyone recommending using the alloy centre hope disks for trials, I believe the centre wears very quickly when subjected to trials forces.

FWIW my 06 mono trial works better with the original hope disk.

If the brake has no bite, changing the rotor will make f**k all difference. Just clean it, and then replace or clean the pads. Then don't forget to bed the pads in afterwards, this can take time and the brake will be poor until its properly bed in.

That is of course assuming that the brake is bled properly, set up perfectly, and there are no leaks anywhere which could cause the contamination. Some people will probably say one rotor works better than another, but there really isn't anything wrong with a standard Hope one.

Also, the Hope floating rotors aren't that great for trials. They can creak and develop play over time, a waste of money really!

Thanks guys for your replies. Yeah im going to check the bleed again and re-do it as it is feeling a little spongy, do i need the waste pipe attached to the bleed nipple on the calliper or can i just allow the oil to spirt out? i didnt have the right sized pipe so bled it without one, thinking it was merely to prevent mess and pad contamination??

Also Forteh thanks, ill check the pads arent worn differently and try them on different sides.

Thanks lads

Danny

[Bronz]

I use the standard rotor mate, and when I fired a new one in it took quite a long time to bed back in.

I'm talking the course of a full ride before it was back up to normal effectiveness, so it could just be that

[Mark W]

If the brake has no bite, changing the rotor will make f**k all difference.

Some rotors have more bite or hold than others, in fairness. My Mono Trial seems to be bitier than Adam's old Try-All rear, which had more material where the pads came into contact with it. Seems to be how it works - the less material there is there, the bitier it is. More material = more hold.

[forteh]

Ive always bled my hope brakes without an exhaust hose on the caliper, makes a bit more mess but seems to work

[CriminalTrials.co.uk]

I use the standard rotor mate, and when I fired a new one in it took quite a long time to bed back in.

I'm talking the course of a full ride before it was back up to normal effectiveness, so it could just be that

Cheers Haz, thinkin about it yours does work pretty well doesnt it, i have missed my disk so really want to get it in good working order again. Hopefully see you soon mate!

Some rotors have more bite or hold than others, in fairness. My Mono Trial seems to be bitier than Adam's old Try-All rear, which had more material where the pads came into contact with it. Seems to be how it works - the less material there is there, the bitier it is. More material = more hold.

Thanks Mark, im beggining to think its down to my bleed now, some advice since your here if you dont mind, how do i know when to stop refilling the reservoir and pumping it through the brake? Cos i just don't see how it could still have air in the system unless ive let the reservoir suck air back in by letting it empty fully before topping it back up, have made sure to roll the membrane back on aswell rather than just placing it on top. Any other tips?

Much appreciated mate.

Ive always bled my hope brakes without an exhaust hose on the caliper, makes a bit more mess but seems to work

Yea it made a mess but couldnt be helped lol

[Bronz]

Cheers Haz, thinkin about it yours does work pretty well doesnt it, i have missed my disk so really want to get it in good working order again. Hopefully see you soon mate!…

Aye it does, and I've learned to-fronts now so I'm needing it!

[dirt jumper jake]

I found my hope rotor to be al load of shit. so i now use a try-all rotor which seem to be good & my mate uses a monty kamel rotor and thats not too bad either.

[Matt Burrows]

Some rotors have more bite or hold than others, in fairness. My Mono Trial seems to be bitier than Adam's old Try-All rear, which had more material where the pads came into contact with it. Seems to be how it works - the less material there is there, the bitier it is. More material = more hold.

I'm sure it can make a difference. I've read articles on the theory behind rotor design and performance before, but in practice I think the differences are fairly negligible. My current BB7 has the Avid rotor that is almost entirely solid and that bites damn well. Although thats not to say it couldn't get better, maybe I should try a Hope rotor...

But in regard to the original post, the guy didn't say "my brake bites OK but could it be better." He said his brake doesn't bite at all, which clearly points to something more than just rotor style.

Thanks Mark, im beggining to think its down to my bleed now, some advice since your here if you dont mind, how do i know when to stop refilling the reservoir and pumping it through the brake? Cos i just don't see how it could still have air in the system unless ive let the reservoir suck air back in by letting it empty fully before topping it back up, have made sure to roll the membrane back on aswell rather than just placing it on top. Any other tips?

If you put a pipe on the bleed nipple then you can see the air bubbles coming out. Once the bubbles stop coming out i'd usually push another 2 reservoirs of fluid through just to make sure. Keep tapping the brake line as you bleed it to help move the bubbles through. Once you've finished bleeding, flick the lever blade a few times as Hope's have a habit of getting little bubbles trapped in the lever. Just pull the lever in a bit and let go so it snaps back. You might have to do this for a minute or so until the bubbles stop. Then you can do your final top up and fit the diaphragm.

[CriminalTrials.co.uk]

I'm sure it can make a difference. I've read articles on the theory behind rotor design and performance before, but in practice I think the differences are fairly negligible. My current BB7 has the Avid rotor that is almost entirely solid and that bites damn well. Although thats not to say it couldn't get better, maybe I should try a Hope rotor...

But in regard to the original post, the guy didn't say "my brake bites OK but could it be better." He said his brake doesn't bite at all, which clearly points to something more than just rotor style.

If you put a pipe on the bleed nipple then you can see the air bubbles coming out. Once the bubbles stop coming out i'd usually push another 2 reservoirs of fluid through just to make sure. Keep tapping the brake line as you bleed it to help move the bubbles through. Once you've finished bleeding, flick the lever blade a few times as Hope's have a habit of getting little bubbles trapped in the lever. Just pull the lever in a bit and let go so it snaps back. You might have to do this for a minute or so until the bubbles stop. Then you can do your final top up and fit the diaphragm.

Spot on will try this, thanks mate!!

Danny

[Matt Vandart]

I find hope origional rotors work ze bestest

[josh barker]

i use to run a hope mono trial rotor with my 06 mono trial, was the best rotor i used.

now i run a rockman rotor, the brake just makes alot of noise when you pull the lever, it is set up right too and has no contamination and all bolts are tight. this never happend with my mono trial rotor.

i would go for the mono trial rotor, good performance and strength

[Kenny--Trials]

If you drag your breaks before a ride(only for about 5 mins), the brake usually performs better (well it does for me).

[isitafox]

I'm running these on both my mod and stock and find them good http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190439072773

Big improvement over my standard hope's once these had bed in properly, on old style trials.

[Alle.C]

Can a rotor be overused ?

I have a BB7 front on my mod and I use a Rockman-rotor that I bought used, I have almost no bit or hold , thoght I clean the pads and the rotor nearly every day.

( I have used the BB7 in like 2-3 weeks, thought the pads are quite worned )

Do you think I should use my Avid-rotor instead (it's totaly unused)

[isitafox]

Always worth a try mehewd!