rich_hill Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Hello to you all. I recently bought myself a Team MAD phase 1.2 to start doing some trials. I have been out on it for several hours getting use to how the bike works, gearing etc. I have noticewd that when the brakes are applied (HS33's) there is a very small amount of movement in the brake pads, so the rim can move back and forth very slightly. This is mostly noticable when riding and applying the front brake and you can hear and feel a slight knock. Is this small amount of pad movement normal? Other than that I am happy with the bike, and think it's going to take a lot of practise, but I do like a challenge. While I'm writing this thread, does anyone have any useful tips for a beginner? Many Thanks Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Mallinson Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 (edited) you may need to bleed the system, also your tpa might be threaded (the little red dial on the lever) have a look on the magura website about how to do it or get you local bike shop to do it Edited September 11, 2010 by Milo123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Thatss not the pads mate, sounds like your headset wants tightening up a bit to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Thatss not the pads mate, sounds like your headset wants tightening up a bit to me! Okay, how would i tighten the headset? The bolt at the top of the stem? Loosen stem, tighten bolt then tighten stem? Im pretty sure its the pads though becuase the rear does it as well. The pad grips the rim, but its like the pad moves from the piston, only about 1mm or so each way. If i apply the break i can move the wheels slightly with my hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 I'd give the headset a try first, and it is like you said loosen stem, tighten topcap then tighten stem. The brake pads may move slightly but I wouldn't think it'd be enough for you to notice it really, what pads and clamps have you got?? Is it a brand new bike as it may be a bit of play in the bearings or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 I'd give the headset a try first, and it is like you said loosen stem, tighten topcap then tighten stem. The brake pads may move slightly but I wouldn't think it'd be enough for you to notice it really, what pads and clamps have you got?? Is it a brand new bike as it may be a bit of play in the bearings or something. I will give the headset a tighten then. Yeah brand new bike, only got it Tuesday. They are normal HS33's as far as i am aware? black piston with silver cap and clamp, and just the standard black pads. How long should it take for them to bed in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 My first bit of advice would be to ditch them as standard magura black pads are terrible! I'd highly recommend some heatsink yellow pads although they are a little pricey the first time you buy them but cheap every time after!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 My first bit of advice would be to ditch them as standard magura black pads are terrible! I'd highly recommend some heatsink yellow pads although they are a little pricey the first time you buy them but cheap every time after!! Okay i will change pads. Where can i buy them from? Why are they pricey the first time but not after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Get them from here http://www.heatsinkbikes.com/. They're pricey as when you buy them the first time you get some CNC machined backings which hold the pads square unlike normal plastic ones which will bend if your brakes aren't setup perfectly straight. But when the pads wear out you just buy the material, remove the old worn out ones and just glue the new stuff in the backings! Have a look on the site as they explain it a lot better than me!! I've got the yellows on both my bikes on the rear and I wouldn't use any other magura pads to be honest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Get them from here http://www.heatsinkbikes.com/. They're pricey as when you buy them the first time you get some CNC machined backings which hold the pads square unlike normal plastic ones which will bend if your brakes aren't setup perfectly straight. But when the pads wear out you just buy the material, remove the old worn out ones and just glue the new stuff in the backings! Have a look on the site as they explain it a lot better than me!! I've got the yellows on both my bikes on the rear and I wouldn't use any other magura pads to be honest! brilliant, thanks very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Mallinson Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 also check all the 4 bolt clamp as its a new bike it might have a few loose bolts, if its not the headset it maybe this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 also check all the 4 bolt clamp as its a new bike it might have a few loose bolts, if its not the headset it maybe this While buying new pads, does it warrant me buying a booster as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Would see how the pads feel first, you may not need to but then again you might. What frame is it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Would see how the pads feel first, you may not need to but then again you might. What frame is it?? It's a Team Mad Phase 1.2 Frame. Just ordered 1 set of the yellow pads with alloy backings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Good lad!! I hope you like them, how you finding the bike?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Good lad!! I hope you like them, how you finding the bike?? It's taking some getting use too, with previousbikes being a Orange 222 and Specialized P.3 and Kouta Korsa it's a little change. I need to sort out my rear mec, at the moment it skips in gear, which can get annoying sometimes. I've been out most days on it now, practicing things. I think I have track stands sorted, and maneuvering on the spot. Just getting use to moving around on the rear wheel, I can do several hops on the spot, but struggling trying to master moving forward, along with hopping up things I'm not to good at, but i guess it's just time and persistence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeJustLuke Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 It's taking some getting use too, with previousbikes being a Orange 222 and Specialized P.3 and Kouta Korsa it's a little change. I need to sort out my rear mec, at the moment it skips in gear, which can get annoying sometimes. I've been out most days on it now, practicing things. I think I have track stands sorted, and maneuvering on the spot. Just getting use to moving around on the rear wheel, I can do several hops on the spot, but struggling trying to master moving forward, along with hopping up things I'm not to good at, but i guess it's just time and persistence. Hello matey! welcome along to the forum! Keep going at it and everything comes in time, I think we all still learn! Everyone on here is super helpful so any questions ask away! and why I'm on here I have to agree that upgrading your pads is an awesome 1st step! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Hello matey! welcome along to the forum! Keep going at it and everything comes in time, I think we all still learn! Everyone on here is super helpful so any questions ask away! and why I'm on here I have to agree that upgrading your pads is an awesome 1st step! Thank you, I will stick at it, doing a little each evening and see how i get on over the next few weeks. I think a new hub is needed as well, I see to have quite a lot of play in this one, (between clicks) as it were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 (edited) It's taking some getting use too, with previousbikes being a Orange 222 and Specialized P.3 and Kouta Korsa it's a little change. I need to sort out my rear mec, at the moment it skips in gear, which can get annoying sometimes. I've been out most days on it now, practicing things. I think I have track stands sorted, and maneuvering on the spot. Just getting use to moving around on the rear wheel, I can do several hops on the spot, but struggling trying to master moving forward, along with hopping up things I'm not to good at, but i guess it's just time and persistence. Single speed conversion, it's definately the way forward! As for backhopping forward and getting up stuff, thats what really takes a bit of time. As long as you start small and build up slowly it should come to you! Have you seen the Tricks And Stunts DVD?? Back when I started years ago I found some of the stuff on there very useful! http://www.amazon.co...D/dp/B000683VSO EDIT: Just seen your reply above and if your planning on getting a new hub then it's definately worth saving up and swapping your cranks as well to go for a front freewheel setup, best thing I ever did when I got my oldskool bike built up a few months ago! Edited September 13, 2010 by isitafox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Single speed conversion, it's definately the way forward! As for backhopping forward and getting up stuff, thats what really takes a bit of time. As long as you start small and build up slowly it should come to you! Have you seen the Tricks And Stunts DVD?? Back when I started years ago I found some of the stuff on there very useful! http://www.amazon.co...D/dp/B000683VSO EDIT: Just seen your reply above and if your planning on getting a new hub then it's definately worth saving up and swapping your cranks as well to go for a front freewheel setup, best thing I ever did when I got my oldskool bike built up a few months ago! Thanks for the info. I do remember the tricks and stunts DVD I atched it a long time ago, i think i will buy it now then and have a watch, as i can't find anywhere online to watch it. So with trials I guess you don't need a great selection of gears then? I have been trying to see whic gear i prefer working in at the moment. If i chose to go fr a single speed conversion what would i need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Thanks for the info. I do remember the tricks and stunts DVD I atched it a long time ago, i think i will buy it now then and have a watch, as i can't find anywhere online to watch it. So with trials I guess you don't need a great selection of gears then? I have been trying to see whic gear i prefer working in at the moment. If i chose to go fr a single speed conversion what would i need? Nope most riders run singlespeed, and most use the same ratio depending on setup. I believe for a 22t front chainring (assuming thats what you've got) you'd be best with an 18t rear cog, you could get a singlespeed kit, which consists of a bunch of spacer rings for the rear cassette, a single 18t cog and a chain tensioner. Or if you're planning on upgrading your rear wheel/hub in the near future I'd hold on and just get a fixed rear hub, new cranks, bashring, front freewheel, rear cog and tensioner then. How tight is your chain at the moment as that could be making the gears slip a bit?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Dunstan Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Thatss not the pads mate, sounds like your headset wants tightening up a bit to me! I have the Crocos, and they do move ever so slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Nope most riders run singlespeed, and most use the same ratio depending on setup. I believe for a 22t front chainring (assuming thats what you've got) you'd be best with an 18t rear cog, you could get a singlespeed kit, which consists of a bunch of spacer rings for the rear cassette, a single 18t cog and a chain tensioner. Or if you're planning on upgrading your rear wheel/hub in the near future I'd hold on and just get a fixed rear hub, new cranks, bashring, front freewheel, rear cog and tensioner then. How tight is your chain at the moment as that could be making the gears slip a bit?! I guess it's no doubt better to go straight to single speed hub. How come it requires a chain tensioner? Can the chain not just be made shorter or buy a shorter chain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 14, 2010 Report Share Posted September 14, 2010 Yes you have to make the chain shorter but you still need to keep it tensioned on the cogs to stop it from slipping, especially when you put power down on the pedals, this is why a rear mech is sprung backwards. A stock chain tensioner is basically a rear mech that sits in a single gear and the springs are generally a lot stronger. Notice here on my heavy tools the chain is quite slack and the tensioner isn't pulling it nearly tight enough so it isn't sitting on enough teeth on the rear cog, it kept slipping on me because of this! And here on my zenith (same setup just new frame really) I had the tensioner set higher up and the chain even shorter to get more wrap around the rear cog. I eventually took even more off the chain and had the tensioner sat almost in line with the rear of the frame but I haven't got a pic, worked perfectly like this though! It is good going straight to a singlespeed hub but if you're just starting out you don't wanna chuck loads of money at your bike straight away, just get your chain shortened for now and when you feel more confident on your bike then I'd definately go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_hill Posted September 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 I have received my yellow pads. Went to fit them, I can't stop one side rubbing on one side of the rim though. The rim must be very very slightly un true. I have wound the hs33 red part right over to -. But still rubs. Is this normal with brand new pads? Will riding around for abit wear the pad down enough to stop this happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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