aener Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 I've had them a while now - and they did it right from the word go, but it's getting a tad annoying as it makes getting just the right "torque" difficult. (It's in inverted commas as I'm not sure if it can be classed as torque or not ) Basically - the top-cap REALLY doesn't enjoy twisting around the top of that which it's pulling down on, and makes turning very difficult. I've got a spacer between the top-cap and the stem, and I've tried greasing the rim of the spacer too. As soon as it gets anywhere near tight enough, it won't really turn without turning the stem. Untill now - I've had to turn the stem with the top-cap, then twist it back when it's tight enough whilst holding the top-cap still. Any methods you guys know that'll ease it up at all? Cheers, and apologies for the poor sentance structure and wording. I'm very tired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 If it's getting to the point where it sticks even with grease, then it's definitely too tight... (As in, you're putting too much preload on your headset and backing off a bit will help your headset and solve the top cap problem.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 I guess I worded it badly. It's not tight when it's starting to stick to the spacer/stem. Forks can still freely wobble around in the headset, but to do it up any tighter I have to turn the stem with it. I guess "seizing" is a bit of a strong word, too - but it's sticking and generally being difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 I know what you mean, if you go to town on the top cap then it does have quite a bit of friction, but grease has always 'solved' that for me in the past. Sounds like there is something wrong with the headset in that case, you really don't need a lot of torque on the top cap to remove play. Which headset is it? Edit: Just been to check a bike with Inspired forks on it (same top cap system), it's possible to tighten the top cap by hand (ie. no tools) enough to remove play in the headset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Sounds like there is something wrong with the headset in that case, you really don't need a lot of torque on the top cap to remove play. Righto. I'll have a look see. It's a King - so I'll be upset if it's gone bad. By "something up", do you imply the cups not being square/or something of that calibre? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Ah - well with a King the chamfers on the races are very small, so I've found they need to be 'overtight' to be tight enough for a trials bike (which is why I went off them a few years back). Fine on an XC bike as you aren't ragging the hell out of the bars/forks all the time, but mine was a bit of a pest on my trials bike unfortunately. The top wedge also isn't split, so they don't compress and grip your steerer when you tighten them down, meaning you need to get a lot of torque in the top cap bolt to make them feel tight. I would probably go with the 'nip top cap down then turn stem to tighten some more' system you've been using in the past Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Ah - well with a King the chamfers on the races are very small, so I've found they need to be 'overtight' to be tight enough for a trials bike (which is why I went off them a few years back). Fine on an XC bike as you aren't ragging the hell out of the bars/forks all the time, but mine was a bit of a pest on my trials bike unfortunately. The top wedge also isn't split, so they don't compress and grip your steerer when you tighten them down, meaning you need to get a lot of torque in the top cap bolt to make them feel tight. I would probably go with the 'nip top cap down then turn stem to tighten some more' system you've been using in the past Bummer Ok then. It's survivable - just something I could do without Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Yeah, bit of a bummer but the 'bodge' you've worked out is defo a good one! For the amount of times you need to use the top cap I guess it's alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 If you do ever decide it's too much of an issue, it's no hassle to slip a small starnut down there and use a conventional top-cap setup too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 If you do ever decide it's too much of an issue, it's no hassle to slip a small starnut down there and use a conventional top-cap setup too... Trudat. Tarty Brain FailÂâ„¢ once again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Trudat. Tarty Brain FailÂâ„¢ once again. Blasphemy. Your word is law. You obviously were just thinking that whacking a star nut in would kill the threads, and so it's a last resort, like me I will keep that in mind though Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 Blasphemy. Your word is law. You obviously were just thinking that whacking a star nut in would kill the threads, and so it's a last resort, like me I will keep that in mind though Mark If you modify your threaded top cap you can roll on that without the need to f**k your threads. Cut it off below the top mushroomed bit, find a nut and put it at the bottom, screw the lot into the fork threads, and you an use that as a starnut effectively. Ads showed me the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 If you modify your threaded top cap you can roll on that without the need to f**k your threads. Cut it off below the top mushroomed bit, find a nut and put it at the bottom, screw the lot into the fork threads, and you an use that as a starnut effectively. Ads showed me the way. That is an especially good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Styles Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 (edited) has anyone ever used a gusset tap cap and bolt on a trials bike before? instead of having a star nut, or threads in the forks, they have 1 long bolt that goes all the way through the forks and comes out the bottom with a threaded half washer on the end of it. it tightens by pulling the bottom of the forks, inbetween the fork arms... if that makes sence? just another thought if thats an option for you... maybe this will explain better... http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Reviews.aspx?ModelID=17766 im also not sure if the washer thing on the end will be big enough, or if 1 of the 3 bolts will be long enough... i would assume they fit though. edit: the washer on the end will fit because all trials forks are 1 1/8 dur me... had a little blond moment there :$ and there are also others here of the same idea http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=48 Edited September 10, 2010 by Sam Styles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted September 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 I forgot all about head-doctors. I've got one lying about somewhere. Thanks for the reminder In answer to your question, yes - loads of people ran them - but I guess they're going out of fashion due to weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 You obviously were just thinking that whacking a star nut in would kill the threads, and so it's a last resort, like me We've got a tap to do those threads, so if you did it and decided to revert to the threaded top-cap again you can go back to it - I've done that after I put my steerer tube extender in If you modify your threaded top cap you can roll on that without the need to f**k your threads. Cut it off below the top mushroomed bit, find a nut and put it at the bottom, screw the lot into the fork threads, and you an use that as a starnut effectively. Ads showed me the way. Similar to what I'm running now, although because I like my headset tighter than normal (I don't know why...), I had to use a couple of burly metal spacers and a nut all glued together, then glued to the bottom of my top-cap. Bodge-tastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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