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Sponge

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Thats just you (or whoever joined it) not being able to operate a chain tool.

Tarty, then me, then me again.

Were you running the split link? Guessing not if it's pulling the links to bits - happens where you lose the mushrooming on the pins from rejoining it after shortening

Nah no split links. I'm running another chain now (name escapes me) with longer pins. No trouble yet!

Edited by Bronz
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I dont think I've ever snapped a Trialtech chain in about 2 years of using them ( I replace them every 4 months or so) and have never used a split link.

Yesterday however, I snapped a month old Try-All half link straight down the middle. This was used in conjunction with a split link to stop the links splaying. The chain had about 4 joins in it (made up from leftovers...I'm a gyppo) and the half link snapped.

Spomge, at a complete guesstamation, I'd say they stretched around half as much as a standard K810/K710.

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Do you think I am a useless noob? I already made a search. I just don't see how it works...

It explains how it works in the first link on google, so yes. N00b is now your title!

If you have horizontal dropouts and want perfect chain tension you put the wheel in without the wheel tightened up, pull it into position of perfect tension (which leaves a gap between the dropout edge nearest the bb and the edge of the axle) and then measure the gap. Buy the correct spacer and simply slot it over your axle and whack the wheel in the frame. It's essentialy the same as a non adjustable snail cam only within the dropout slot.

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