1a2bcio8 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 I gave a quick search to solve my problem but I don't have much time as I'm at a friends bike shop trying to get my (newer model) hs33 to work. Basically the issue is that the lever goes all the way to the bars. The TPA appears to be fine - it adjusts back and forth. It seems to be that the lever body doesn't resist the part of the TPA that sticks out from the lever. even if the TPA is extended to the max. Is this an issue with the bleed? The problem is the same between two different lever bodies. HELP! and thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Is this an issue with the bleed? Yes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John-Hynes Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 (edited) It's not the lever body that resists the lever blade, it's the pads hitting the rim. It sounds like a dodgy bleed or a bad pad set up. EDIT: Could be a leak Edited June 25, 2010 by Ben John-Hynes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1a2bcio8 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Okay, I've beld it. There's no air in the system and there's no leaking. Still the same problem though When there's enough pressure in the system, does this push something in the lever body out to meet the part of the TPA that sticks out from the lever? If so, does this ever become stuck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rab shropshire Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 i think what your desribing (could be wrong) is a stiff master cylinder them you pull the lever in towards the bars does it spring back out freely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1a2bcio8 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 i think what your desribing (could be wrong) is a stiff master cylinder them you pull the lever in towards the bars does it spring back out freely? Not at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rab shropshire Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 sounds like we have found the problem then you need to get your master cylinder out of the lever blade lube it up, pop it back in and it should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1a2bcio8 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Any advice on removing it? I just tried some not so good needle nose pliers and that didn't do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Might have to use a pump/air line, blast it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Did you undo the TPA before bleeding it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cahill Trials Kid Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 I had the same problem, and it was the bleed, i was trying to bleed with a syringe and although there didnt seem to be any air coming out there was, In the end i just bled it in the bath and it worked perfectly after that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1a2bcio8 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Attempted the pump fix, didn't work. I'm know using a magura raceline lever that's at least 10 years old.... It's hugh and doesn't have a tpa! Thanks for the help, chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 The TPA appears to be fine - it adjusts back and forth. It seems to be that the lever body doesn't resist the part of the TPA that sticks out from the lever. even if the TPA is extended to the max. I'm know using a magura raceline lever that's at least 10 years old.... It's hugh and doesn't have a tpa! I'm confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1a2bcio8 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 That was indeed a poor explanation on my part. Basically, I couldn't fix the cylinder issue with the HS33 lever body that I was asking for help about. Air pressure from a pump simply wouldn't do it. Instead, at the shop that I was doing the repair, I was offered an old, old magura lever (HS??) which worked perfectly, within a matter of minutes, in opposition to the hours I had spent trying to sort the lever body. The old lever is at least around 10 years old (methinks) and it doesn't have a tpa but is large in size and is something I have never seen before. None of this is particularly intersting, no doubt, but I just felt like wrapping up the thread with an ending to my predicament. Clearly I failed Bit annoying all this seeing as the broken lever body I bought was from somebody off the forum the other day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rab shropshire Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) I will have another go at explaining this, may help anyone with the same problem. Basically this is how you fix a stiff master cylinder (stiff lever) 1. First of all you need to remove the lever blade from the body. 2. Next you need to remove the piston and spring from the lever body. this can be done 2 ways a. attach a pump to the end of the hose as shown in the second picture and just pump untill the piston pops out. (be carefull as with the air pressure the piston can fly out quite quickly) b. with the brake still on the bike attach a syringe filled with fluid to the bleed point on the slave, and force the fluid through the system this should pop your piston out of your lever body. (ensure yourpads are hitting your rim before you use this method so as not to damage your slave cylinders) You now should have a piston and spring in your hand as shown in the first picture. 3. Remove the rubber o-ring from the piston so it doesnt get damaged. 4. Sand a tiny bit of your piston all the way round ( above and below where you o-ring would be) only do a little bit each time and keep checking for a correct fit. 5. Once you have a good fit give every thing a good clean and lube. 6. Give your spring a little stretch 7. Pop everything back together 8. Give the system a good bleed (ensure your tpa is fully wound of before starting to bleed) This should solve your problem, if you need any more help give me a shout Edited June 26, 2010 by rab shropshire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twista Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 might be blatantly obvious, but is the bolt that holds the lever on done up tight? If it is, this will stop the lever springing back.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rab shropshire Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 might be blatantly obvious, but is the bolt that holds the lever on done up tight? If it is, this will stop the lever springing back.... good point lol i will piss myself if thats what is wrong. only cause i before have spent half hour trying to figure out a brake problem only to find out that the bolt was too tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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