Do do do Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 I have a big problem with snapping chains, What chains are good for trials. I know that kmc kool are used alot. But I was wondering if there are any others, That wil withstand alot of greif. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh barker Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 these seem popular with some people http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...p;category_id=7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0zzy Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 i liked the trial tech chain the lite one, and then i snapped it about 4 times within a few days, id recomend these chains just to be changed often perhaps 4-5 months. ihad mine for bout 8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials_pimp Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 I would highly recamend the KHE Collapse chain. Not the lightest, but then who cares. Super strong chain. I have managed to snap almost every chain I have owned over the years, but not this one. Had it on the bike over a year now aswell.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 What chains are you using? How long do they last? Is you chainline spot on? How worn are your sprockets? How tight do you have your chain tensioned? And where are they snapping, on the link you joined them with, quicklink? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew_coggan Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 LoL my chain snapped today so am going to buy a proppa one this time not a shitty cheap 1 LoL mine snapped today but it was a cheep 1 so am goint to buy a betta 1 this time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidanb93 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 are you relying on the chain before you do a blunt? instead of your back brake. if so this puts alot of strain on a chain and is one of the ways to shorten the life them YBN heavy duty 9speed shifter chains are amazing made for trials with shifers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials_pimp Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 Thats incorect. Infact a good rider will rely more on the chain than the brake. And if your rally good you can do it without the rear back at all. Trials by definition put exces amount of stress through the chain, so standard chains will not last. As previously stated make sure all of your drive line is in good shape and correctly adjusted. Its alos a good idea to change the chain, chain ring and sproket at the smae time, as they will wear together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidanb93 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 Thats incorect. Infact a good rider will rely more on the chain than the brake. And if your rally good you can do it without the rear back at all. Trials by definition put exces amount of stress through the chain, so standard chains will not last. As previously stated make sure all of your drive line is in good shape and correctly adjusted. Its alos a good idea to change the chain, chain ring and sproket at the smae time, as they will wear together. well that may be your opinion but the reason i belive that is because i was told this by a competition rider. who is currently teaching me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Do do do Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 (edited) What chains are you using? How long do they last? Is you chainline spot on? How worn are your sprockets? How tight do you have your chain tensioned? And where are they snapping, on the link you joined them with, quicklink? I think its a kmc of hand, Not a kool. And my chain line is near on. The freewheel is 6 days old. The back sprocket on the other hand, Your guess is as good as mine. And as for tension tight but not over the top, The chain is snapping via the links and pulling apart. Though I have been told no matter what type of biking I do, My riding style is very hard. As for using the brakes or chain on the back wheel, I mainly use the brake but I rely on them both. Also im sure using a freewheel with very few engagements, Probably dont help. Plus I dont use split links I dont trust them. Thanks for all the posts so far, and Im also not worried about weight yet. I want a chain I can use durin a drop gap, and not have to think is this going to hold. Edited February 5, 2010 by Do do do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 I think its a kmc of hand, Not a kool. And my chain line is near on. The freewheel is 6 days old. The back sprocket on the other hand, Your guess is as good as mine. And as for tension tight but not over the top, The chain is snapping via the links and pulling apart. Though I have been told no matter what type of biking I do, My riding style is very hard. As for using the brakes or chain on the back wheel, I mainly use the brake but I rely on them both. Also im sure using a freewheel with very few engagements, Probably dont help. Plus I dont use split links I dont trust them. Thanks for all the posts so far, and Im also not worried about weight yet. I want a chain I can use durin a drop gap, and not have to think is this going to hold. The first time you snap a chain you should replace it or it will keep snapping. KMC are good, i personally use a taya chrome bmx chain that cost £6.99 from halfords on nearly all my bikes, they just work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 well that may be your opinion but the reason i belive that is because i was told this by a competition rider. who is currently teaching me. Tricky one this, my feeling is that if you have the rear brake on, then that allows you to remove all slack from the chain, when you then put the power down you put the chain from "slack" to "tight" in a fraction of a second, thus putting a lot of force through it. The opposite is brakeless, when you have a constant pressure on the chain, it doesn't have such a quick difference of state, so would be harder to snap. just my 2p worth anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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