Brake Booster On A Fourplay?

[chris4stars]

as some of you may have read in other another thread..i did something daft to my left hand after a ride! so ive been looking at my rear brake set up...and with my birthday coming up, fancy sorting my setup!

at the moment i have the hs33's with the blue pads that came with tarty's spec3 fourplay (i assumed these were rockman or very similar but im not sure now?)....and i've given the rear rim a very very light grind, just enough to take the paint off and then a little. it is very fine, i was using a grinding disc and was quite hestiant to go any deeper just incase!

i'll be getting an sl lever blade, and the cnc backings that come with the rockman blues and was wondering; with that new setup should i also get a booster?...the frame flexes a little at the moment, and im keen to improve its performance in any way i can (weight is no issue!)

any recommendations welcome, im keen to find out how other people have their fourplay rear brake set up

[Revolver]

I used to have my fourplay without a booster and it was fine.

Perhaps use the trialtech sport 2-bolt booster?

[Simpson]

Frames stiff enough without a booster. Don't bother.

[chris4stars]

cheers, was just with the flex it has now...i wondered if the different lever and cnc backings would make it any worse

will leave it off and just try and get the rear set up as best i can

edit* my mistake...after checking, just realised that the blue pads arent actually the rockman blues as i assumed..and are the tartybikes high performance?! should really wait to see if the rockman blues hold any better in comparison...ive had the rim slip forward a couple of times, and quite alot backwards

Edited January 26, 2010 by chris4stars

[rupintart]

Frames stiff enough without a booster. Don't bother.

You can never have "stiff enough" when it comes to the rear brake. That just means, it "can be stiffer". "Stiff as possible" is better to hear.

Vees ***.

As for the grind, don't be scared to "grind it too hard". So long as you don't just sit at one spot, you can't grind it too hard. If you have a truing stand, do it on the truing stand. If you don't, it's easiest to take the tire off and put your wheel back on your bike (bike upside down). Put the grinder to it and the wheel will naturally spin as the grinder hits it. Push hard and get one good revolution round and it should be fine and you'll be done with a harsh grind in under 5 minutes.

Then, pretty much with whatever after market pad, it will lock. The pad itself lends to the obvious, preference.

[chris4stars]

handy tip with grinding there thanks;) is there a particular disc you use to get the grind you have in that pic? it looks pretty deep/sharp?!

[Alex@Flawless Bikes]

I run an RB brake booster on my inspired, they don't really need one but I think it makes the brake feel just the little bit nicer!

[bigamac]

You can never have "stiff enough" when it comes to the rear brake. That just means, it "can be stiffer". "Stiff as possible" is better to hear.

Vees ***.

As for the grind, don't be scared to "grind it too hard". So long as you don't just sit at one spot, you can't grind it too hard. If you have a truing stand, do it on the truing stand. If you don't, it's easiest to take the tire off and put your wheel back on your bike (bike upside down). Put the grinder to it and the wheel will naturally spin as the grinder hits it. Push hard and get one good revolution round and it should be fine and you'll be done with a harsh grind in under 5 minutes.

Then, pretty much with whatever after market pad, it will lock. The pad itself lends to the obvious, preference.

There is a much easier way to grind than all that hassle.

That's probably the easiest way i'd say.

I've never given mine a grind but taking your tyre off and so forth is just effort!

[rupintart]

Why risk the grinder hitting your tire and screwing it up? It literally takes me less than 10 seconds to deflate and unmount my tire and I can make sure I get a good, even, harsh grind without worrying about hitting my tire, or anything else for that matter. As far as the contamination goes, use clean hands. The amount of "contamination" you get on your rim will be there after 5 minutes of riding anyways. Unless your tires are massively greasy, I wouldn't worry about it. A new disc each grind...that's a great waste, and gets pretty expensive after awhile. Great vid otherwise, and very well illustrated/narrated.

OP, as far as the grinding disc goes just any "metal grinding wheel" works. Don't get the cheap crap, as the disc will only last 1-2 grinds before they're like cheese and all used up. You can get just a sharp grind the 1st couple uses on the same wheel just by changing the angle during the grind.

FWIW, I could remove my wheel from my bike, deflate the tire, unmount it, either remount it to the bike or put it in a truing stand and give it a nice harsh grind and remount the tire/install it before that video is even done. And many people who regularly grind their wheel could also do the same (like anything else done many times over) once you've done it a handful of times.