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Chris Kings Hub Options?


joshlyd1

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They're effectively the same, just with different hubshells. If anything, the singlespeed's stronger as it's got less driveshell to it and a wider hubshell.

And you ride mod; why are you looking at getting a singlespeed?

Either way; use a rear disc/ want one? Get an ISO Don't have/ want one? Get a singlespeed.

Edited by Skoze
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Yehh sorry i need to change that to stock :)

Well Shaun H on here told me that the singlespeed hubshells are a lot weaker than the ISO shells is this true ?

Thankssss

Don't listen to Shaun.

Either one will be fine. You wont break the hubshell. Classic or single speed.

ASPIREVELOTECH.COM

Edited by max-t
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Stop what cracking, the axle? Myself, Andrei Burton and Si Whitby were chatting about this on Sunday, none of us have had a problem with our king rear hubs.

Yeh, grinding the teeth off the drive side of the CK HD axle does stop them from cracking, what happens is because the corners of the teeth are very sharp a crack will form and then travel inwards to the step where the axle diameter increases to the driveshell needle bearings sit, the crack will not reach the bearing race but it will travel around the step and then a chunk of the steel out will fall out, I have had this happen to my 2 previous HD axles, the current one has had the teeth removed so this one will last for ever :)

One thing to note about which hub you choose, If you get a single speed you get an aluminium drive shell, it is neccesary that you run a wide based cog otherwise it will dig in and wreck the drive shell, If you can an ISO you should specify a stainless steel drive shell.

Adam

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It doesn't really matter on the driveshell unless you're a proper monster, just ensure you run a wide base cog, trialtech are the best option in my opinion, good value and perform almost identical to chris kongs own sprocket.

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Yeh, grinding the teeth off the drive side of the CK HD axle does stop them from cracking, what happens is because the corners of the teeth are very sharp a crack will form and then travel inwards to the step where the axle diameter increases to the driveshell needle bearings sit, the crack will not reach the bearing race but it will travel around the step and then a chunk of the steel out will fall out, I have had this happen to my 2 previous HD axles, the current one has had the teeth removed so this one will last for ever :)

Adam

Cheers Biggy, i'll have to have a look at mine then and sort it.

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i dont see the need to shave the spike things off because chris king seem clever enough

Yes, but these people have found a possible flaw in the design and have found a solution. And sharing it! It's not like they're trying to help or anything...... :rolleyes:

Amirite?

Edited by l33th3tr33
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Sorry but what am i looking at ? as in i see the crack on the right but i do not know where the spikey things are?

They are at the end of the axel, its there to stop your wheel moving about in the frame pretty much, cos it grips n thaaaaaaaa, ive never had a problem with it, i also had a crack like that on my classic when i had stock and i ran it for a year and a half and nothing happend, its still going today also, so meh haha.

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They are at the end of the axel, its there to stop your wheel moving about in the frame pretty much, cos it grips n thaaaaaaaa, ive never had a problem with it, i also had a crack like that on my classic when i had stock and i ran it for a year and a half and nothing happend, its still going today also, so meh haha.

Shave them off, think about the weight!

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Ahh good that helps :)

I dont thing i will get the single speed because of the aluminium shell , and i dont see the need to shave the spike things off because chris king seem clever enough

I have been running Kings for years and have never had a problem with an aluminium drive shell. I'm not saying don't get the steel version, but you wont need it. Mine have taken some abuse and have been more than fine.

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