Re-pressing Bearings

[Bliv]

Anyone ever replace the sealed cartridges in their hub?

One of the bearings in my rear hub is a little shoddy and I was talking to a buddy at his shop and he said he's done it using a vice.

I'm running n older 116mm CNC Try-all hub, anyone know what size I'd need and where to get some?

Looks like the bearings are marked LDI - 6000RS

Found this but not too much info there.

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....+bearings\

Edited January 20, 2010 by Bliv

[Bliv]

Looks like I found the bearings it has

http://www.skatebearings.com/etoad/index.p...mp;productId=58

But any Tips are appreciated.

[N.Wood]

I just push 'em in. No real trick to it. Getting the f**ked ones out whole is harder usually.

[Bliv]

I just push 'em in. No real trick to it. Getting the f**ked ones out whole is harder usually.

At the moment it isn't built onto a rim, are they tough enough that I will need to clam it in a vice to get them out?

[steve g]

You should be able to knock them out by hitting the axle on the opposite side, so you would probably need to clamp it.

I picked up some skf 6000RS bearings on ebay for a very good price,its worth a look

[psycholist]

They'll probably have to be hammered out of the hub. Sitting the hub face down on a wooden board with a hole the bearing can fall through and hammering the bearing from the inside should work. Hitting hard a few times will be a lot more effective than tapping it (Which may never remove the bearing).

To refit either use a vice to press the bearings in or use something like a quick release skewer or a threaded bar - the aim is to apply a controlled force to the bearings and keep them aligned. Spread grease on the surface the bearing mates with in the hub too - it should make it easier to fit and remove the new bearing.

[N.Wood]

Could probably rig something up without using a vice. But they are generally butted up against a metal lip. So pressing them in till they hit the lip is easy. Pushing them out from the other side when there is a lip in the way can be tricky.

[Bliv]

Thanks,

I will probably use a piece of wood to place the hub on. I am planning on using a vice to press them but another idea would be to use a long bolt and a ratchet with washers like a makeshift headset press.

[Brisa]

Heres a short vid of a hope pro 2 being stripped and rebuilt, will give you a rough idea what you need to do on most hubs.

Link - Hope Video

[Bliv]

That was a helpful video.

I'm a little confused about the different bearing grades and materials I can get.

Can anyone explain how to tell what would be strong enough for a rear hub?

For example ABEC rating, ball grade, and Steel/ceramic ball bearings.

Edited January 20, 2010 by Bliv

[Brisa]

Most sealed bearings will be around the same quality and be good enough for your hub, some are sealed better than others which probably isn't all that important on a trials bike.

[Bliv]

Seems like these would be good then

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-6000-2RS-RS-Premium-...#ht_2544wt_1167

[Brisa]

As long as they are the right bearing code (size) then they will do the very best! One thing I always do with my bearings (with great results) is very carefully pick the rubber seal out (small pick or tip of a utility knife) and pack the bearing with a good quality bike grease then replace the rubber seal. This will prolong the life of the bearings ten fold. Especially if you ride off road a lot or are fond of using a powerhose!

[Bliv]

Thanks for the help, I'll make sure they have plenty of lube.