step Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 (edited) I`ve made my own brake booster. To be correct i have made the technical drawing and from a 100 mm AL plate the booster was milled.( i think that's the correct term) It has been made at my father`s work place. The only mistake that i made was the holes i made them M5 but it was M6 . Enough with the talk , here is the technical drawing , will post pictures of the booster in about 1 hour . It fits on my rear i have tested it , but i didn`t take any pics with it on my bike. The bike is in pieces. Opinions? Edited January 18, 2010 by step Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Fel Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 It looks really chunky. Hopefully it will fit. Looking forward to seeing the pics and how well it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektrum Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 looks like a horseshoe, bet it weighs the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
step Posted January 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I will weight it this afternoon my guess that it is in the 150-250 grams mark. It`s a raw finish , you can still se the trace lines , a nice paint job will come soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmusson Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I will weight it this afternoon my guess that it is in the 150-250 grams mark. It`s a raw finish , you can still se the trace lines , a nice paint job will come soon. All you will need to do then is attack it with a drill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Nice one dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
step Posted January 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Nice one dude. Thanks , if someone has some ideas on how to make that booster better please modify the drawing. Units are milimeters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I can improve that drawing - get the holes cut to M6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 70mm clearance i assume you're running a skinny rear tyre then. Sorry the pics don't load for me so i cant see them from the drawing looks all good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Clark Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Photos are too small, any chance of some larger res ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
step Posted January 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I can improve that drawing - get the holes cut to M6 Yeah i noticed that too late , i have drilled them afterward to fit M6 bolts. 70mm clearance i assume you're running a skinny rear tyre then. Sorry the pics don't load for me so i cant see them from the drawing looks all good I run a 2.30 tire. Tioga Factory DH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mod-out Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Make it better or design it better? It all depends on the tools available to you. The design is so basic there isn't much to improve without making it more complicated. I would make all the inside radii be the same dimension, that way you can use the same endmill for the entire inside cutout. Your drawing is complete, which is good. You haven't called out any tolerances anywhere on the drawing, however. Then again, when I made the unicycle frame pictured, I didn't make any drawings at all, let alone picking tolerances. If you have a waterjet or laser rig available, then blank it out with that, and just deburr. If you're using a manual milling machine (such as a bridgeport), there are a host of things you could do differently. Instead of doing a million punch marks (note, you only need two punch marks to define and scribe a line. The fewer the punch marks, the better), scribing, and complicated layout, just figure out the size of the rectangle you would need to make the part out of. Mill a chunk of aluminum to that shape. Then calculate the location of the center of each inside radius relative to two perpendicular edges of the rectangle. Drill a hole of twice the radius at each of these locations. Then use an endmill to mill between these points to remove the rest of the material. Do all of those operations in the same setup, without removing the part from the vise. For the outside radii, use a belt sander and a radius gauge, or a file. It's a decent first machining project, but if you are careful you can do a much, much better job. Once you do so, mill out the middle of the part to thin the web (making a sort of I-beam section). This will do very little to reduce the strength, but will do plenty to improve the looks and reduce the weight. Edited January 31, 2010 by Mod-out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
step Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 It's a decent first machining project, but if you are careful you can do a much, much better job. Thanks for the imput , as i have said in the first post i just did the drawing , the booster was made at my father`s work place. I wanted it plain and simple but any improvements for future projects are welcome. As you can see it`s a V-Brake booster , soon i will get a 4 bolt frame and maybe i will make another booster to fit that. I can make it 2 bolt or 4 bolt. I think the thickness is too much , 10mm plate. The plate was max 10mm , but the worker could cut it down to 7-8mm. If you need more pics just tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
step Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 It weights exactlly 212 grams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
step Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) Update , i have drilled 10 holes in the booster. 10 mm holes with a hand drill , only one hole is slighty offset. But i think it looks great. Now i have to sand it down and spray paint it. And the pics: Edited January 27, 2010 by step Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdmackay Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 That's awesome man! The drawings just look like a bunch of lines and numbers to me. But great result. Go into mass production with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
step Posted January 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Update , i have belt sanded the booster to give it a shine and rounder edges. Here are the pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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