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Solution To Brake Freezing?


Sam Moss

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Antifreeze have oils to prevent this, and corrosion to..

Maybe the solution is bleed fully with antifreeze or adding % of distilled water.

No current water ot tap please!!

I have a special antifreeze from my old Beta Zero Gara special for a magnesium carter and aluminum pieces. Maybe is the best? No?

Sounds about spot on, un-reactive anti-freeze (Y)

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How the f**k can you do something wrong when bleeding? What a stupid question. You put water in - no air, job done. It did work for me, it was nice for a while like i said but it didn't lubricate, theres no point arguing - that IS what happened, and thats why I don't use water. How can anyone expect water to lubricate? The reason most of you guys probably can run water bleeds fine (like i did for a long time) is that there is probably traces of the original oil in there acting as a lubricant. I agree with this completely.

If you do removie it all, clean the cyclinders, pistons, chamerbs, pipes etc and use only water you WILL run into trouble. Remember the fluid that comes in maggies when you buy it is not the same as Royal blood, royal blood is a much thinner version.

The emulsions i've heard of people using are bullshit, they will just seperate - the tiny amount of fairy liquid does not keeping the oil and water mixed at all. I've made copious amounts of emulsions and they all seperated resulting in sticking pistons again. I've heard of plenty of people haveing the same trouble as me - probably the people who actually cleaned there brake out properly in the first place - not something i'd advise if someone does want to use a water bleed.

If you have removed every single trace of the original oil and used various water bleeds with nothing else mixed in and you've had no sticking pistons then you are very lucky and i am exceptionally pleased for you. If water worked for me i would have stuck with it - but it didn't so royal blood was the best solution and it feels fine to me.

Maybe you guys have very oily water where you live or you've all got pussy forearms? Who knows? :lol:Like it!

I was wondering about this just yesterday as this will be my first Winter with water bled brakes.

I'm just gonna bleed them with Royal blood or shimano oil, anyone know which is the thinnest.

Also how does one get all the water out? Keep bleeding?

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They're both pretty thin, but i think Royal Blood is a bit thinner.

It shouldn't need tonnes of bleeding - just push the royal blood through and it will displace the water. I mean, you've only got water in there now so theres no harm taking the brake apart, draining and cleaning it all out. Then when you've got the royal blood just push it through until theres no bubbles and it should be perfect.

Thats what i did, and my brake has been running perfectly and consistently for a good time now!

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Cool.

Also I would like to point out that I have been using water from an RO unit (Reverse osmosis) which means it is pretty much Pure H2O and I havn't had any problems with sticking in any of the pistons on the system.

This could be due to the lack of minerals in the water or the fact that the water is neither acid/alkaline but neutral, or just a spot of luck, I don't know but I thought I would chuck that in the pot.

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Mine's entirely flushed through so there can't realistically be any traces of oil (Been bled 3 times since I blasted the system with air). I've done the same with all mine before - I've not once had a Magura leak, nor have I had the internals corrode, get seized - anything. They've been totally fine.

Are you sure that the standard Magura fluid in the OEM brakes is different? I don't see why they'd spec two different generic mineral oils, one for going in their brakes then one for their aftermarket oil?

EDIT: If you get sticky pistons, that's incredibly easy to solve using some GT-85 and about 2 minutes of your time?

I used water for a year or so, at first it was great - lovely and light then i gave the brake the clean of its life, taking it all apart and getting everything out of it so the pipes and internals were as clean as you could get. Thats when the trouble started.

Direct correlation between it being totally fine for a year with no hassle, then you give it the 'clean of its life' and it no longer works correctly? ;)

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Of course there is, thats what i'm saying. You said originally that if you give it a proper clean/blast it out etc it will be fine with water. What i was saying was that i had given it a proper clean removing all of the original gunk replacing with only water which isn't sufficient to enable the brake to work. Blasting air through your pipes isn't going to clear the amount of shit around the seals and pistons, it gets so compressed and stuck in that taking it apart and thorougly cleaning/wiping it is the only way to displace it.

So the point im making is........ 'If you want to use a water bleed, DONT thoroughly clean your brake' You've probably got small amounts of original fluid in yours lubing the pistons meaning the water in there will act just fine as its not directly responsible for lubricating the system. Theres no point us going back and forth on this - the single point im making.......water alone CANNOT lubricate your brake system, you can't say that it will, its just ignorant.

''Royal blood is thinner than standard fluid, giving a 'snappier' feel at the brake lever, while still retaining full lubricational properties'' - direct from your employer!

Edited by Matthew62
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Something random into the 'mix', lol, a car's stopping distance in the wet is doubled so water must be a lubricant... :wink2:

that doesn't make it a lubricant, the same would happen with gravel...

I have been convinced by this thread that my magura problems are being caused by a water bleed. I suspected it anyway but now I know, tomorrow monty oil is going in (Y)

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