1a2bcio8 Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 I like the way you've considered your future ability to reproduce regarding a certain style of bike part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 What's the front disk perform like?So so so strong. Amazing brake for the price. Honestly.Ive got Avid Juicy Sevens on my mtb, with 203mm disc. The bikehut brake is what I would choose for a very cheap, efficient and powerful brake to the more expensive better looking units on the market.Ugly looking, but very very strong, solid brake. Definitely hanging on to this brake as a spare when something goes wrong with the Hope mono trial I like the way you've considered your future ability to reproduce regarding a certain style of bike part.I can only assume you like that im ordering an Inspired Pivotal seat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 I assumed he meant the genital-saving saddle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solite Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 looking sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 looking sweet Cheers mate.Just got the new red hope seat clamp and front QR skewer. Still waiting on the red hope headset and bar end capsWill take pics when its all changed. Still need to order an Inspired seat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spaceman Posted November 5, 2009 Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 Cool! We're using the blk mrkt 3" bar! Haha.I would say keep the pink headset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 (edited) Cool! We're using the blk mrkt 3" bar! Haha.I would say keep the pink headset.Cool. Who's "we" exactly? Two other people have the bars do they?Nah, Pink headset will be going whenever my red Hope headset arrives. Ive swapped over the other items as mentioned and I want the headset to match it.The red of the King is different to the red of the hope, and after reading some reviews of particular series of Kings having problems with "creaking" due to the need for a certain pre-loading seal, I'll stick with the very good looking (after reviewing the pic of the one id bought:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hope-Headset-BRAND-N...=item53dd930b75i think i'll be happy in keeping it and getting rid of the King.) My King is fantastic and I'd love to keep it if I hadnt gotten those red Hope hubs. The colour contrast is the only thing that bugs me and the only reason I'll be selling it.Heres the creaking forum: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=278648I'll sell it on ebay as people will be expecting me to sell it for a fiver on these forums I'll also be selling the matching salmon pink seat clamp. The pink King headset of mine has NO noise, no creaking, no nothing. It works PERFECTLY well, its just not a match for the rest of my parts Edited November 5, 2009 by † CETFLY † Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted November 5, 2009 Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 Cool. Now stop worrying about what it looks like and ride it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 (edited) Cool. Now stop worrying about what it looks like and ride it!Have been buddy, not worried as such, just making it how I want it to look - and riding it in between Edited November 5, 2009 by † CETFLY † Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Waiting for the dvd's i ordered the other day. First one is "Dirty Tricks and Cunning Stunts Vol 1" and the second is DT & CS Vol 2 including "Bi-King" so I can get all the basic moves down-pat before trying all the other harder moves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 (edited) My opinion is those bars are way over the top,get a higher stem and some more down to earth bars, also it's not gonna bunnyhop properly if you keep them leant forward like that.As for the bars slipping in the stem, that's due to the ridiculous rise and all the leverage on them,get some 2" risers with a 15/17 deg stem. Edited November 9, 2009 by LEON Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 My opinion is those bars are way over the top,get a higher stem and some more down to earth bars, also it's not gonna bunnyhop properly if you keep them leant forward like that.As for the bars slipping in the stem, that's due to the ridiculous rise and all the leverage on them,get some 2" risers with a 15/17 deg stem.High bars and low stem, to me, are the same as low stem and high bars. It comes down to the handlebar height from the ground. Either way, shouldnt matter I wouldve thought.Dont forget, those pics are earlier on. Ive taken on board what Skoze said about the bars and pulled them back a bit. Thanking him for the advice in one of my replies.The bars dont slip in the stem, the stem rotates on the head tube. Im going to sort this issue out when I get the King headset taken out and swapped with the Hope tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 (edited) It really doesn't work like that, you gotta take into account the upsweep of the bars and the back sweep not just the rise, a big high stem with flat bars will feel different to a medium rise stem with risers, even though they're at the exact same height on the same bike, has an effect on the steering too. Edited November 9, 2009 by LEON Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 It really doesn't work like that, you gotta take into account the upsweep of the bars and the back sweep not just the rise, a big high stem with flat bars will feel different to a medium rise stem with risers, even though they're at the exact same height on the same bike, has an effect on the steering too.I have to disagree.Aside from the pitch of the upsweep and backsweep it will be the same.Example: If I had the exact same bar design (with the same upsweep and backsweep but one is 2" riser and the other 3") and you have the 2" with a higher stem and a 3" with a flat stem and theyre the same height from the ground, then the feel will be exactly the same as will the riding.Its purely psychological. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 My latest saga.....Went today to the bike shop to get the dude to remove the Chris King headset and replace it with the Hope one.We used the Park Tool and got the King out. No hassles at all. Very nice headset. Im completely regretting it not being in red with white writing - MASSIVELY REGRETTING!He checked the surface and it needed to be faced (Inspired dont do this post-production) so that was cool, he faced it.We assemble the new Hope headset, press the bearings in all good. We go to bolt up the top cap....no go. Its completely the wrong top cap. It will never ever fit. The forks now need to be pulled off, put in a vice and have the internal thickness of the steerer tube machined out to take the hope head doctor star nut setup. The top cap cant fit as-is due to the thickness of the steerer tube and that hopes top caps are designed for larger internal diameter, thinner thickness tube.Another real pain. Wondering whether to pull this out and just sell it and order a red and white King. At least they go straight in with no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Or save yourself hassle and run a smaller diameter starnut (1 inch fits those forks i believe), then run a new bolt through the head doctor top cap and skip the head doctor mechanism completey? Save yourself time and save yourself the hassle when you snap the alloy bolt on the head doctor like everybody else seems to! No point just changing everything because of a stupid little top cap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 (edited) Or save yourself hassle and run a smaller diameter starnut (1 inch fits those forks i believe), then run a new bolt through the head doctor top cap and skip the head doctor mechanism completey? Save yourself time and save yourself the hassle when you snap the alloy bolt on the head doctor like everybody else seems to! No point just changing everything because of a stupid little top cap Yeah I reckon! Stupid alloy bolt. Couldnt believe it. The dude was saying it will snap too.I dont know what other units Hope have a different stainless bolt which is shaped to the top cap. If not it will need a shim of some kind.I want the top cap to match though mate. It looks great with all the red/black combo now, but want the top cap to be fittable.Whats the best way to remove the star nut? (never had to before)The bike dude wasnt going to dare put the head doctor in there after machining out the tube. He was going to put in a better and correct star washer to make the top cap and hopefully different bolt, work together Edited November 10, 2009 by † CETFLY † Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Hmmm, taking a star nut out. That’s a good one.I've tried lots of methods for this b*****d of a job. If the steerer is the same diameter all the way through, you’re on to a winner. Get a longish (longer than the length of your steerer) heavy duty pipe and bash the mother through with a hammer till the chocolate star pops out the bottom. Then chuck it in the bin, of course.Seeing as you have a set of Deng forks, bettering it till your both crying wont do you a bit of good, as the star nut will just clog up the bottom of the steerer as it tapers within. So yea, don’t try option 1.Option 2 would be to drill it out in the middle, and then the starry bits will crumble like hard dogs jobby on Astroturf trainers.I prefer option 3 though. Use a hex bolt (as I usually can’t find an Allen bolt long enough). Screw that bad boy into the star nut until it’s touching all the threads for a good contact point. Stick the long bolt in a bench vice so there is plenty of room to tap the top of the fork steerer...When I say tap, I mean batter the f**k out of. The bolt should be placed so that the head is sticking out the top of the vice. This stops the bolt moving down the way when "tapping" the steerer.I would advise you to use a heavy duty steel hammer for the job, and possibly use a hard wood paddle to place in-between the hammer head and the steerer to protect your precious forks from damage.If you’re not a pussy the star nut will eventually come out.Saying that, there’s probably an easier way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Hmmm, taking a star nut out. That’s a good one.I've tried lots of methods for this b*****d of a job. If the steerer is the same diameter all the way through, you’re on to a winner. Get a longish (longer than the length of your steerer) heavy duty pipe and bash the mother through with a hammer till the chocolate star pops out the bottom. Then chuck it in the bin, of course.Seeing as you have a set of Deng forks, bettering it till your both crying wont do you a bit of good, as the star nut will just clog up the bottom of the steerer as it tapers within. So yea, don’t try option 1.Option 2 would be to drill it out in the middle, and then the starry bits will crumble like hard dogs jobby on Astroturf trainers.I prefer option 3 though. Use a hex bolt (as I usually can’t find an Allen bolt long enough). Screw that bad boy into the star nut until it’s touching all the threads for a good contact point. Stick the long bolt in a bench vice so there is plenty of room to tap the top of the fork steerer...When I say tap, I mean batter the f**k out of. The bolt should be placed so that the head is sticking out the top of the vice. This stops the bolt moving down the way when "tapping" the steerer.I would advise you to use a heavy duty steel hammer for the job, and possibly use a hard wood paddle to place in-between the hammer head and the steerer to protect your precious forks from damage.If you’re not a pussy the star nut will eventually come out.Saying that, there’s probably an easier way to do it.LOL classic I was thinking about the star nut itself. Im sure I can do this if needed: Use a small drill bit and swiss-cheese the flat metal paddles which fan out between the nut and steerer. Then bash it down to a depth which wont affect the new star nut which can then be installed above it.I dont want to be bashing the head of the steerer tube what-so-ever. If that outer edge get bulged out, the stem will never clamp properly or adequately.Its bad enough that my stem keeps slipping on the steerer as it is right now, even after being torqued up with torque wrench to just over whats required.Id love some Inspired forks. Stupidly expensive though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Hang on...why are you removing the starnut? You will need that...all you need is a suitable length bolt and a washer, and hey presto the head doctor fits. Alternatively FSA made a red topcap that matches up nicely to hope red and wont need a washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Hang on...why are you removing the starnut? You will need that...all you need is a suitable length bolt and a washer, and hey presto the head doctor fits. Alternatively FSA made a red topcap that matches up nicely to hope red and wont need a washer.I thought the same thing. Why change/remove the star nut? I think he was needing to do it due to it being in the way of the tool that is needed to bore out the internal diameter to allow the Hope top cap to fit.Im just sick of these stupid Deng forks. Anyone know of anyone selling any Fatties? If I can get a new set of forks i'll throw these ones off a cliff. Piles of crap. These shouldnt have even been deemed good enough to be installed on a bike. They really shouldnt.I dont want to go to all this trouble and cost, throwing good money after bad, just to still have the same pain-in-the-rear forks.We've done up the stem and assembled everything, but it now makes a cracking noise, so somethings wrong, although it was DEF all installed with grease (on the greasable parts only) and installed correctly with the right tools and facing.Trying to source a king headset now. Hope headsets Im not a fan of now and getting fed up with this crap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 There really is no problem here at all. I haven't read the last 3 or so posts so i dont know if you've sorted it but i've got pretty much the exact same set-up and its such an easy fix.My forks have a big thick steerer so a head-doctor, 1 1/8 star nut wont fit so just run a 1 inch star nut and standard bolt. Yeah you wont be able to use the head doctor, but so what. Machining down the steerer tube to make it thinner is beyond stupid and i can't believe any bike mechanic would suggest this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I cant see why you cant take the top cap from the hope head doctor thing and use that in conjunction with a regular bolt and a 1" star nut? Seems like you're finding the most arse about tit way of sorting a very simple issue. There's nothing wrong with the forks at all, just with your mechanic for suggestion to ream the steerer to a larger bore! Insane.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Exactly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
† CETFLY † Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Have you guys seen the top cap of a Hope compared to a King or many others?Theyre stepped. The King (for example as i have the old one here) isnt anywhere near as much.To use the Hope cap, the bore MUST be reemed out (which he'd already done to take the larger cap step.Its quite a thick (top to bottom) step, which is why you cant get away with not machining it. He only had to drill out the bore a few mm and it then slots in.It seems to be holding for the riding I was just doing and couldnt really understand why he kept saying I had to change the star nut.... No idea why, but it seems to be holding so im leaving it and riding it.After just watching more of Dirty Tricks and Cunning Stunts (so stupidly cheesey that you cant help but laugh at the outakes with the dummies lol) and it amazes me the control Ashton has in doing a stoppie down a twist brick wall.Tried doing that (after really pulling the handlebars back from their previous way-to-far-forward-position) and they feel a bit better. Its quite hard to get the modulation correct at this stage.Can hop a couple of times on the front wheel. Getting used to holding the manual out longer (still taking time) but the simple things to most of you boys like bunny hops and rear wheel hop (bursting forward I mean, as I can bounce on the rear but cant go anywhere with it yet ) I suck at and really need to work at. Ive always sucked at bunny hops since I was a kid. Gotta keep working on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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