Jump to content

Repainting A Bike.


slink

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The bike i've just picked up recently is in a pretty poor sight cosmetically, the livery is all scratched to hell and back and the paint has well and trully seen better days.

I'm after advice on painting really.

I've managed to get the rest of the stickers off by using a heat gun at a distance, which has worked a treat.

Now i'm prepairing to paint the frame.

I need advice on this..

Do i need to prepair the surface in any way?

I have a guy feeling it will need a couple of coats of primer first, then my chosen colour on top.

Do i need to do any sort of roughing up to the surface? (ie: sanding down)

any help is accepted :>

Daveypoo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All i do is just keep spraying over the old paint, my bike probably has about 50 coats on now including a powder coat with in it somewhere.

I just get some rough sand paper and rough the paint up a bit, get a better primer than what the paint says, (eg one of its colours was red, it said to get a grey, but get a white, better outcome.) And then just use about 5 coats of primer with 20 minute gaps. then spray your desired colour on, don't be a fool and let it drip, its just about taking your time :). then use about 1+1/2 - 2 cans doing this, then laqure a very fine coat, leave overnight, and then give about 10 coats of laqure.

Sorted. Look at my dp, i did this myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All i do is just keep spraying over the old paint, my bike probably has about 50 coats on now including a powder coat with in it somewhere.

I just get some rough sand paper and rough the paint up a bit, get a better primer than what the paint says, (eg one of its colours was red, it said to get a grey, but get a white, better outcome.) And then just use about 5 coats of primer with 20 minute gaps. then spray your desired colour on, don't be a fool and let it drip, its just about taking your time :). then use about 1+1/2 - 2 cans doing this, then laqure a very fine coat, leave overnight, and then give about 10 coats of laqure.

Sorted. Look at my dp, i did this myself.

Hi mate, thanks for the speedy reply, i had planned on starting this bike today, but the english weather has gotten the best of me and started to rain.

What you've said there was pretty much what i had in mind, but didn't want to jump in and f**k something so early in the build.

But, pardon my ignorance, What is your dp?

Thankie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With spraying it is best to start with a rough surface (use coarse sand paper) if you dont strip back to bare metal you shouldnt need primer. The best advice I can give you is to be patient and only use thin layers and leave each one to dry and fully harden before applying another coat. If you can get the frame into your house after each coat the heat will help it harden alot better than a damp garage. Have a look at the WIKI and use the advice on there.

Hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can use a sand blaster, this way u will see any real defects in your frame because sandblasting works in three ways;

1. removes paint work

2. clears out dirt and muck out of scratches and strips the frame material back to a better finish

3. leaves the frame slight rough so the primare will stick tot he frame easier which helps prevents runs.

Then you should put a layer of lacker or 'clear' on to your final coat of paint to help pretect your frame,

hope this helps send me a picture when your done

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for your imput ol

Just going over the bits now, I picked it up pretty cheap, so i knew there would be a few defects here and there.

After having a propper look at it this afternoon i've noticed:

Back wheel has a slight buckle, Advice on pulling it out?

Needs a new bottom arm on the crank by the looks of things, as i dont want to take the more or less the frame into a bike shop, can anyone advise me on what i need to ask for (size wise), and i can go and pick the bits up tomorow at some point

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers Josh was have a quick blast through the wiki last night,

the sun is out today, although the wind is kicking up and i promised i'd be somewhere for 7pm, so if i'm going to do anything worth while to this bike today i'll need to get my arse in gear!

Will update with a picture or two later methinks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Strip it right back to the bare metal, can use whatever you like for this, sandpaper, shot blasting gear, nitromors, whatever - i use a wire sanding thingy (sorry for the technical terminology ;) ) on an angle grinder, can get all different sizes of it, just buzz it over the frame and take your time 'til it's all off.

Get some primer, grey's usually fine for most purposes, make sure everything's covered. Leave it overnight to dry properly.

Then go at it with your top coat. Again, one good coat would really be fine but i'd give it two just to be on the safe side. Again, let it dry in between coats and let it dry properly overnight. As long as you can't see any primer through it it's fine!

When that's all nicely dry, give it two coats of clear laquer (gloss, satin, whatever floats your boat - or just don't bother if you're like me) again, let it dry between and after.

Viola, nicely painted frame. Remember to take your time with everything, apply it thinly and gradually build it up to get your coats of paint, don't rush! And remember to mask up anything that doesn't want to get paint in, like your headset (or headtube if you've taken that out) likewise the the bb and seat tube if you have one which can take a seat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

aye mate once i've managed to get off the couch and into the shower i'll be off out to look at some nitromors at the local diy shop, i suppose i could set that going this a fternoon in the yard before it starts to rain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Change of plan, Bike is being put back togther into a rideable state and taken to a local old timer to have a look at my crank in the morning, Whilst that's being done over in town i can have a look at some decent colours and pick up some nitromors!

Might take the oppurtunity to pick up some gloves and a helmet whilst i'm in the area

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Change of plan, Bike is being put back togther into a rideable state and taken to a local old timer to have a look at my crank in the morning, Whilst that's being done over in town i can have a look at some decent colours and pick up some nitromors!

Might take the oppurtunity to pick up some gloves and a helmet whilst i'm in the area

The advise already given is sound, but i would add that when you're picking colors, remember that metallic paints tend to bring out scratches and bumps in the surface a lot more than ordinary paint (as the reflected light comes off angle with the surrounding surface). So if you find a nice metallic paint, take some extra care when putting the primer on so you get as even a surface as possible.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a small update for where i'm at currently.

Took the push-iron into the local cycle repair shop, says he 'cant do it till xmas'. (the crank)

So i've gotten hold of the bits, or what i think are the bits as i've never done this kind of job before.

I've got:

  • Bottom bracket remover
  • A new bottom bracket
  • Some kind of tool that looks like it helps move the thread out with the bracket remover
  • grease.

Whilst i was there, i picked up a new quick release bolt for the seat (if i ever decide to put it back in). And a good puncture repair kit.

Any advice on removing this crank?

Big job?, or can a monkey like me pull it off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a small update for where i'm at currently.

Took the push-iron into the local cycle repair shop, says he 'cant do it till xmas'. (the crank)

So i've gotten hold of the bits, or what i think are the bits as i've never done this kind of job before.

I've got:

  • Bottom bracket remover
  • A new bottom bracket
  • Some kind of tool that looks like it helps move the thread out with the bracket remover
  • grease.

Whilst i was there, i picked up a new quick release bolt for the seat (if i ever decide to put it back in). And a good puncture repair kit.

Any advice on removing this crank?

Big job?, or can a monkey like me pull it off?

Biggest hammer you can find + hand = cranks off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously?

Get a crank extractor, only costs a few quid and you won't snap cranks or f**k the taper/ splines.

that's the other tool i'm led to belive.

gonna have a crack at it this evening, might even fix the rear puncture as well. Living the dream on a monday night. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crank exstraction tool works a treat.

Although i'm having trouble getting the cartridge out, the bottom brack removal tool fits as it should, but it is NOT budging on either side.

I've blasted it all with a bit of lube and rust removal, hopefull it'll losen it up a bit, but atm i cant see me getting the bottom bracket out with the help of ten strong men.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you turning it the right way remember to take out the non drive side first and it is opposite thread

Aye tried both clockwise and anti-clockwise and it's not budging, i'm going to blast it a few more times with this penetrating lube spray then give it another bash after curry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...