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Hope Pro 2 Trials Rear Hub Rebuild


† CETFLY †

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I polished and cleaned mine up with 1200 1600 1800 and 2400 grit wet and dry with lots of soapy water

and then autosol'd the hell out of them with elbow grease, a buffing wheel would make life a lot lot easier!

Wow youre kidding! That wouldve taken you ages! Still extremely hard to get it as shiney as what a buffing wheel can. Got any pics?

I'd probably have to spend an hour or so on both arms on the buffing wheel to get it to mirror finish

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Pics are a lil old, please bare in mind i took these back from manked up cranks and could have taken a lot more time with them and got them a million times better.

When i was finished with them:

post-7460-1256139362_thumb.jpg

Comparison between the 2/3's done drive side and the original non drive.

post-7460-1256139443_thumb.jpg

Sorry about the quality.

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Pics are a lil old, please bare in mind i took these back from manked up cranks and could have taken a lot more time with them and got them a million times better.

When i was finished with them:

post-7460-1256139362_thumb.jpg

Comparison between the 2/3's done drive side and the original non drive.

post-7460-1256139443_thumb.jpg

Sorry about the quality.

Mate, they look fantastic! Thats about the quality Id get mine to on the buffer

Yours look amazing with how youve done them. You mustve spent many MANY hours doing all that

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Yeah i think 3-4 hours in total, sanding down the scratches and gouges and then working up to 1200 grit, which looking through the photos is all i had and then buffing with a nice soft cloth and autosol. The more time you spend sanding them down and working up the grit grades gradually with the wet and dry the easier the polishing is. I've got another set of black cranks I'm going to do soon. Going to town on them though :P

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Yeah i think 3-4 hours in total, sanding down the scratches and gouges and then working up to 1200 grit, which looking through the photos is all i had and then buffing with a nice soft cloth and autosol. The more time you spend sanding them down and working up the grit grades gradually with the wet and dry the easier the polishing is. I've got another set of black cranks I'm going to do soon. Going to town on them though :P

Yeah, I agree completely. Going through the grades of sanding will remove any damage and the top layer. Just very time consuming. Mine are fairly new looking and wouldnt take overly long to do on a buffer and all i have to do i apply pressure and apply the block of polish occasionally to the spinning wheel :)

Not sure if I'll do it or not yet though. Will see.

I will try to put up some pics tomorrow of the bike in its current state.

Dropped the rims off to a rim builder.....damn.....am i GLAD im getting him to build these rims!

Far out he KNOWS his stuff! Been building rims for 30+years.

I completely cocked up the front rim which *seemed* easy enough but he's going to do a stronger form of lacing and also better for the rear.

He said the rear Pro 2Trials hubs are VERY well designed, very well balanced and very strong.

He said pretty much the opposite for the front Hope Pro 2 hub

He said it was totally out of balance (with the center point being offset too much when the hub couldve and shouldve been designed with more thought). He says it should have been extended out further on the non disc side to allow the hub to be more central within the rim and not having the disc side taking the majority of the loading.

He's ordering in a 36h rim for the 36h Trials hub. Should be there and all finished within a week :( Damn it, another 7days plus i think its going to be raining this time next week...

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Ok boys

With regards to the hub and lubing it, I got talking the other day to the guy who's building my wheels and he knew this hub exactly and had THE best silicone-based lubricant for just such an item. He said its very expensive the stuff he had so I asked if he could give each of the pawls an application of it.

I cleaned out the hub off all the grease and he applied the stuff to the pivot point of where the pawls sit. He said not to lube the pawl itself and/or where it makes contact with the teeth. He said the only bit that needs lubrication is the section ive mentioned previously.

You should hear it now. Sounds absolutely amazing! So loud, so tough! LOVE it! :D

Scotty- you know how you said the anodizing was pink? Damn it yes, you were right. BUT, theres a reason for it especially for the headset.

Ive just got off the phone to the Cameron, at Chris King in Portland, Oregon, USA.

Ive been emailing him saying that mine looks pink, but with the hubs being red, i'd like a red replacement cap-set.

So I called him. He said that he'd actually hang onto it. If not I'd be easily able to sell it for the same, but most likely more than the price of a new one in the anodized red with white writing that I was chasing.

This is due to this colour being a limited edition through Chris King where the were donating a part of this particular series' sales, named "Pretty And Strong" to Womens Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

Mine is stamped with the year that it was produced. This in itself has increased its price greatly he said due to it being such a limited run by them, a limited colour which isnt repeated anymore (more of a salmon-pink colour, where they now do bright pink) and that mine has "Pretty And Strong 2008".

The other reason its highly sort after and valuable is because, as Cameron was telling me, they dont stamp them with the year anymore. The one I have is the very last printed with this on it :)

I think i'll keep it now! It has far more meaning to me now, and in general, than I couldve thought. Pretty special headset.

If I really want to sell it to match the colour scheme i've chosen then at least I can without any problems at all.

ChrisKingHeadsetLarge.jpg

Edited by † CETFLY †
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