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Hope Pro 2 Trials Rear Hub Rebuild


† CETFLY †

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Hey boys and girls.

Got my hands on a near new condition rear pro 2 trials hub. Only a month old, from new, from Tarty's

The section in question here is the bold and underlined quoting from Tartys website

Here:

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Hope Pro 2 Trials

£110.64

Description

- Having proved extremely popular amongst riders from across the globe, Hope found that around 3% of their hub shells sold were failing... so they beefed up the design and increased strength by 10%!

- Tested and refined over a period of more than 18 months, the Pro2T uses a simple pawl and spring system, but beefed up for trials use.

- 4 wide pawls activated by strong leaf springs engage into a high quality 24 tooth ratchet, and are offset to give 48 engagement points.

- Completely revised sealing system on both sides of the hub keeps dirt and water out, to keep your hub running more smoothly for longer.

- Tough aluminium alloy axle has M10 threads in the end to accept large bolts (included in the price).

- Steel 6-speed freehub body resists digging in, while allowing the flange spacing to be equal (therefore building a stronger, dishless wheel), and your bike to be competition legal.

- Runs on a full compliment (5 in the Pro 2 Trials) of sealed cartridge bearings, as all Hope hubs.

- 6 bolt International Standard disc mount for those electing to run a rear disc.

- Now lubed with oil instead of grease makes the hub louder, decreases bedding in time and lessens the chance of skipping.- Available in Black, Silver, Red, Blue, Gold and Gunsmoke, in 32h and 36h drillings.

- Weight: 427g including supplied axle bolts, only 11g heavier than a Full Heavy Duty Chris King ISO!

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Now, the hub i have bought is the latest version. Just as in the pics on the website.

Ive pulled the steel freehub out to inspect the internals, only to find it has grease in there, not oil.

Considering it says on the site that its now lubed with oil.... would i be better (or at least safe) in cleaning the grease out and putting some transmission oil (thicker than engine oil) in there instead of fresh grease?

If so, does anyone know what oil Hope actually use or what Tarty recommend when rebuilding/servicing the hub?

Cheers

Wes

Edited by † CETFLY †
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Hope would recommend leaving it alone - naturally, they'd supply it lubed to their recommendations. Tarty, and many others, would probably recommend finish line dry lube. I think...

Thanks mate.

I too, agree with what you said about leaving it alone, although its not as its claimed to have been supplied- which is oil lubed. Unless they have a very broad range of how thick their "oil" is :P

I mean, sure, cheese is just super thick, matured milk but its now far from the milk state :)

I just see the grease as getting gumming up the springs and pawls and causing skipping. They said oil will reduce skipping, so i dont think its wise to leave the grease in there....

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Find some thick oil, throw it in, done (Y)

Hey mate! Hows things? Should be getting my Inspired from Japan, all things being well, and have it on my door step in the next few days.

This is why Im looking to get this hub sorted for a fast change-over.

Rough as guts solution lol :P

Was thinking of some transmission oil as mentioned but Revolvers suggestion was good too.

How about some Graphite Powder? Very good dry lubricant. I just dont want the dry lube, such as "Finish Line" for example, being like some Parafin Chain Wax's Ive used for my dirt bike chains 15years ago. Its expensive, great for that application- but its tacky to the touch. It wouldnt be practical for something sprung, like the pawls, as it tends to "gum up" parts like that.

Thoughts on the Graphite Powder boys? Anyone tried it before ?

Edited by † CETFLY †
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I used some airline oil on my king....seems shweet

+1

When ever i service high quality fishing reels at work, i use airline oil. Its good quality stiff and wont interfere with delecate mechanisms.

Also, transmition oil (Silkoline light ger oil i use in my beta) is waaaaaaaaaaaayyyy thinner than ordinary engine oil (Y)

max

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FInish Line is probably best, took my king apart when it was skipping when just bought it, cleaned it and lubed with a bit of this oil. Don't put too much though!

Hmm if i could get that here in Aus, i would go for it but must be made in UK :(

I used some airline oil on my king....seems shweet

Now... do you mean a brand name? Or you've pedalled your way to RyanAir and asked the mechanic if he has any suitable oil for a hub

If you pedalled, then theres plenty of different oils that planes would use, narrowing it down for me will be helpful ;)

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Airline oil is used to lube compressed air tools and compressor lines. should be able to get it from any tool retailer.

max

Ahh cool, i see. I have some for my own air tools. I'll go ahead and use that. Thanks guys!

Now, ive given up due to impatience really, lacing up my wheels.

Its harder than I thought even though sites say its not hard.

Sure, ive laced the front up, that wasnt hard, its getting it trued after read this site thats hard:

http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-ti...0truing%20stand

Driving me nuts.

Plus, I cant figure out how to lace a 36h hub to a 32h rim with 32 spokes.

Too much to risk, especially consider trials bikes dont have suspension to soak up some of the punishment so I need it built correctly.

Theres more in building a wheel than simply tightening the spokes, so would rather leave it to a pro and watch him build it

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Ahh cool, i see. I have some for my own air tools. I'll go ahead and use that. Thanks guys!

You sure it's not just a light lube oil in a squirty can ?

If it was proper airline oil (thats what it will have on the bottle...) you'd have known first time.

Not being a willy, just want to make sure your using the right gear (Y)

Edited by Pashley26
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Thanks all

Will be using my air tool oil as mentioned above.

Scott, cant ride it mate. Ive taken the hubs out and swapped them over. Thats the next thing im paying someone to do for me while I watch and learn.

I gave it a (excuse the pun) trial-ride after assembly.

Rides ok.

Chains not new as claimed, so need to change it. Has rust on it. Disappointing. Those front brakes from Bike Hut are absolutely unbelievable. Havent had much testing with modulation but may not have had any reason to buy and pimp the Hope Mono Trial front that I bought.... I need to buy a Hope Bleed kit now. Hard to do any other way really and I also cant pop out the non-core plug side piston to rebuild it with fresh seals.

Has anyone on the forums polished their Middleburn RS7's? Was thinking of doing this to make it stand out

Scotty, you were also right. Theyre pink :(. On the Chris King site it lists only three colours and its red. I know with anodizing it sometimes comes out pinkish or very very light red. This just happens sometimes at the end of a production line or start. Well, even on the site, the picture it has up there lists red but looks pink. Maybe their just colour blind, dont know :P

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I had a polished set of burns, takes a while to do and you can get an awesome finish on them, but its doesn't last long unless you protect the cranks from oxidation with some lacquer. I've got another pair I'm going to do soon, but need to find some way of protecting them from dulling other than lacquer which wears off pretty swiftly.

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I had a polished set of burns, takes a while to do and you can get an awesome finish on them, but its doesn't last long unless you protect the cranks from oxidation with some lacquer. I've got another pair I'm going to do soon, but need to find some way of protecting them from dulling other than lacquer which wears off pretty swiftly.

Did you use a buffing wheel? Im going to use my bench grinder with a big buffing wheel on it. Used that to do all my cars alloy intercooler piping.

Yeah, its such a pain that it doesnt last long. Just use some car polish (a cut n' polish would be best to remove the layer of oxidation) and do that regularly to maintain it.

I can get these looking like a mirror if I spend the time to do it....just a question if i should even bother or not.

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ah sorry mate thought they were rideable! My bad! i told you those brakes were good man the modulation is a bit on off but you get used to it! Not a bad bit of kit for £59.99 either, bad news about the king headset (EMO)! Still its only a colour! Lol i guess with the 'burns its a case of gettin the autosol out and attackin them with some good old fashioned elbow grease! Lol hope you get it rollin soon to start shreadin up the streets!

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ah sorry mate thought they were rideable! My bad! i told you those brakes were good man the modulation is a bit on off but you get used to it! Not a bad bit of kit for £59.99 either, bad news about the king headset (EMO)! Still its only a colour! Lol i guess with the 'burns its a case of gettin the autosol out and attackin them with some good old fashioned elbow grease! Lol hope you get it rollin soon to start shreadin up the streets!

Hahaha EMO, that made me feel sad :

:P

Im gonna get someone to lace this rear rim tomorrow morning and true it fully, along with the front, then she'll be rideable.

I'll have to swap the front brake over once I finish rebuilding it.

Then she'll be complete!

I've taken some snaps but want to do some step by step mod pics, like the hub change over etc and add to them.

Hopefully she'll be rideable tomorrow and I can take some 1/2 finished pics :)

Hope it wil look good. Those bars feel friggen fantastic. 3" risers! Manualing feels easy as do endo's. Cant wait to ride it with some confidence when I get my own hubs laced.

:)

Ok, its 3am here, gotta be up in 5hours to ring this wheel builder. Hopefully he doesnt charge an arm and leg...

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