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Geometry Corrected/sus Fork Trial Bike


snoolax

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Hello everyone,

may i ask if anyone is running street trials bikes of 24 or 26 with geometry correction forks or sus forks? how do they feel as compared to normal bikes which are geometrically dialled as compared to one that needs to is altered by using a longer fork (perharps to raise its BB height and such)?

I am not comparing them to pure trials bike geometry and handling, as obviously pure trials are the best in doing trials..

i am more interested in whether a susfork set up on a sus fork designed frame, a geometry corrected fork setup on a sus fork designed frame, and a normal 400mm rigid fork on a normal street trials geometry frame, how do they differ in terms of handling and riding?

An example of the above will be the manifesto with sus fork, a manifesto with a geometry corrected fork, and a yaabaa799 with a normal rigid fork.

thanks for all opinions and discussions!

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Norco trials bikes are made for suspension.

Suspension has to be lowered quite a bit - down to around 40 or 60mm of travel - to fit a trials bike. At that point, all you get is a trials bike with a heavy front end, that's also soft. The thing is, the only real thing you'd need suspension for - dropoffs, on a trials bike if you learn the correct technique, you absorb the shock with the back wheel, so there's no need anyway.

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I'm still new to trials, and haven't gotten very far yet as i am still practicing simple trackstands, hopping and getting up/down smaller stuff but i'm using a suspension fork (Specialized P1 with the DJ3-fork). I't probably would have been a lot easier learning on a better bike without the fork, but now that i've started to get the feel for it it's not all that bad.

Sure, it's a bit hard to get the back wheel up, but that's mostly technique. Also it's a bit difficult doing small adjustments as the fork eats a lot of the power you put into it. In other words i have to use my arms and back a lot more and even just moving my front tire just a little bit means having to put quite a bit of strength into it. On the other hand, it's a good workout ;) I'm fairly certain that i'm not going to run sus-forks on any more bikes, but i'm not feeling that the ones i have now are that much of a setback either. But then again, i am also new, so i might just be way off on this too. It's just mostly how i feel about it right now.

Edit**

The forks are Marzocchi DJ3 forks with 80mm travel and stiff springs. They are quite heave but so is the rest of the bike and they do survive a beating.

Edited by belga
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thanks for the opinions guys!

after reading the opinions and some riding, i guess sus is no no fork me. Uncontrollable and adds a good bulk of weight, needs maintence and is expensive -.-

i think i will be giving up my norco frame, guess that even with a geometry corrected fork it will on raise the front up high limiting the maximun pulling up of the front.. may i ask what is a recommended geo for a 26 street trials frame? was thinking the yaabaa 799 =)

http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?produc...;category_id=14

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thanks for the opinions guys!

after reading the opinions and some riding, i guess sus is no no fork me. Uncontrollable and adds a good bulk of weight, needs maintence and is expensive -.-

i think i will be giving up my norco frame, guess that even with a geometry corrected fork it will on raise the front up high limiting the maximun pulling up of the front.. may i ask what is a recommended geo for a 26 street trials frame? was thinking the yaabaa 799 =)

http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?produc...;category_id=14

Actually i find that the front is easy to get up, as the fork can be used to "bounce" the front end up. Takes a while to learn and makes it harder to control, but as far as just getting the front wheel airborne it actually helps. But your right in it being harder to control and heavier. On the large scale control is simple, but small things are a pain as you have to use about as much power to move 2 inches as you do to move 20.
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