New Tensile 96click Freewheel

[Warbs]

I have just broken my freewheel and was looking at getting a new tensile freewheel. I wanted to know if you all think it's worth spending the extra money on the new 96 click over the old 60 click??

Many thanks

Tom

[onzatrip]

yes in a simple answer ive been riding one for about 2 weeks now and hasnt skipped on me at all the pick up on it is amazing best freewheel/hub ive ever ridden if you can get one do it!

[I am ze best]

Yeah it sounds like a great freewheel. Its between a standard 72 and like the try-all 109 so it should be worth it.

[onzatrip]

Yeah it sounds like a great freewheel. Its between a standard 72 and like the try-all 109 so it should be worth it.

Im sorry but that has nothing to do with the freewheel just because it has engagements doesnt mean it will work! you wil have needed to ride one to give a decent report!

[Alex Dark]

Yeah it sounds like a great freewheel. Its between a standard 72 and like the try-all 109 so it should be worth it.

The old tensile is 60...so i guess this is more the standard....

Im sorry but that has nothing to do with the freewheel just because it has engagements doesnt mean it will work! you wil have needed to ride one to give a decent report!

Damn straight, reliability is everything with the drive-train

[PaRtZ]

you wil have needed to ride one to give a decent report!

without question, but EP is a highly sought after property here in the trials world When I look for a freewheel, the first thing I want is something that wont skip, as you've commented on. The second thing I look for is EP, but not 96.

The reason being, if im setting up for a short run up and theres no freewheel slack (for argument sake, call it an infinite amount of EP) I can't get any momentum from the cranks without being met by the resisting force of the wheel on the ground. As soon as I move the cranks, the wheel goes too. I find I cant get as much power to the cranks if this is the case.

I prefer something like the current tensile freewheel at 60 click. Now if Im setting up, theres a bit of play between me moving the cranks without resistance, and the wheel turning. This gives me better momentum through the pedals, so that by the time the drive engages Ive got more torque going through the cranks

Thats a headf*ck im sorry, but its the only way I can explain it. High EP is obviously beneficial for precision, but if you go OTT you may find yourself a bit hindered. Plus if youre poor like me, less EP is cheaper

[Alex Dark]

without question, but EP is a highly sought after property here in the trials world When I look for a freewheel, the first thing I want is something that wont skip, as you've commented on. The second thing I look for is EP, but not 96.

The reason being, if im setting up for a short run up and theres no freewheel slack (for argument sake, call it an infinite amount of EP) I can't get any momentum from the cranks without being met by the resisting force of the wheel on the ground. As soon as I move the cranks, the wheel goes too. I find I cant get as much power to the cranks if this is the case.

I prefer something like the current tensile freewheel at 60 click. Now if Im setting up, theres a bit of play between me moving the cranks without resistance, and the wheel turning. This gives me better momentum through the pedals, so that by the time the drive engages Ive got more torque going through the cranks

Thats a headf*ck im sorry, but its the only way I can explain it. High EP is obviously beneficial for precision, but if you go OTT you may find yourself a bit hindered. Plus if youre poor like me, less EP is cheaper

yup, hence why the koxx riders run very high ep setups, but with loose chain tension to get the best of both worlds. When tension is appllied, ths high eps are felt, and then left slack there is more room to get your momentum

[PaRtZ]

yup, hence why the koxx riders run very high ep setups, but with loose chain tension to get the best of both worlds. When tension is appllied, ths high eps are felt, and then left slack there is more room to get your momentum

yeah or that, I forgot about chain tension Nice to see someone can understand where Im coming from though

[Warbs]

So from what you are saying a bit of slack (less EP's) can be a bit of an advantage???

Onzatrip

Have you used the old 60click one as well??

[crispyboy]

Get an Echo tr there amazing

[onzatrip]

I have used both! both are amazing and yes PARTZ i can see were your coming from but i run the chian slightly losse anyway but yes if you want the more EP get the 96 click if not just get the 60 click there both amazing!

tris

[JT!]

without question, but EP is a highly sought after property here in the trials world When I look for a freewheel, the first thing I want is something that wont skip, as you've commented on. The second thing I look for is EP, but not 96.

The reason being, if im setting up for a short run up and theres no freewheel slack (for argument sake, call it an infinite amount of EP) I can't get any momentum from the cranks without being met by the resisting force of the wheel on the ground. As soon as I move the cranks, the wheel goes too. I find I cant get as much power to the cranks if this is the case.

I prefer something like the current tensile freewheel at 60 click. Now if Im setting up, theres a bit of play between me moving the cranks without resistance, and the wheel turning. This gives me better momentum through the pedals, so that by the time the drive engages Ive got more torque going through the cranks

Thats a headf*ck im sorry, but its the only way I can explain it. High EP is obviously beneficial for precision, but if you go OTT you may find yourself a bit hindered. Plus if youre poor like me, less EP is cheaper

I disagree with all of that. I understand where you're coming from but i can't see how the slack helps you build up momentum at all.

[Mike Winton.]

Best freewheel i have ever used by far!

[Greetings]

Well, the 96 will do 36 clicks more than the 60. If you like clicking noises, then go for it

[PaRtZ]

I disagree with all of that. I understand where you're coming from but i can't see how the slack helps you build up momentum at all.

well i guess in other terms, assuming chain tension is perfect thoughout this:

With infinite number of EP, as soon as you start to pedal, you have the rolling resistance straight away (the tyre, terrain etc) so your LEGS go from zero momentum to a small momentum, which in turn, changes your bike from zero momentum to the same, smaller momentum (allowing for gearing etc)

Whereas a lower EP (and tight chain) as soon as you legs move, the resistance doesn't occur, meaning you can kick the pedals round quicker and THEN the drivetrain picks up and the resistance occurs. Im pretty certain that this feeling provides more BIKE momentum because your LEGS have more momentum by the time the drivetrain engages

Thats the best I can do, if you still think im wrong then I dont think I can try to convince you otherwise

[Fish-Finger-er]

JT! go to your wall, clench your fist, push against the wall,does the wall break, one would hope not, do the same with an inch between you and the wall, the wall probably still wont break(unless your bruce lee), now throw a proper punch at the wall, with your first starting a couple of feet back from the wall,your fist will go through the plasterboard without to much hassle.

slightly less destructive analogy, place a nail into a piece of wood, push on the nail with that hammer, then take a couple of inches, and tap the hammer, then swing the hammer at it. see the greater movement, due to the increased run up.

now imagining there grip between the tyre and terrain, would having free space to pick up momentum before the freewheel engaged, provide greater movement?

edit: probably best you dont go to your wall, as a) your not hard like fatpants and B ) you essentially live in a caravan, i dont particularly want a lawsuit(i know what you americans are like) from you sticking your fist through some styrofoam and then cutting yourself on the fibreglass/tin exteriror.

Edited September 20, 2009 by Fish-Finger-er

[Greetings]

Whereas a lower EP (and tight chain) as soon as you legs move, the resistance doesn't occur, meaning you can kick the pedals round quicker and THEN the drivetrain picks up and the resistance occurs. Im pretty certain that this feeling provides more BIKE momentum because your LEGS have more momentum by the time the drivetrain engages

Well yes, that is correct if you only apply logic and don't take any facts under consideration. But what you forgot is that this logic only applies to riders who can't pedal kick properly yet. Once you've learned to do it properly, you will know that you should never kick without the freewheel mechanism fully engaged.

[JT!]

well i guess in other terms, assuming chain tension is perfect thoughout this:

With infinite number of EP, as soon as you start to pedal, you have the rolling resistance straight away (the tyre, terrain etc) so your LEGS go from zero momentum to a small momentum, which in turn, changes your bike from zero momentum to the same, smaller momentum (allowing for gearing etc)

Whereas a lower EP (and tight chain) as soon as you legs move, the resistance doesn't occur, meaning you can kick the pedals round quicker and THEN the drivetrain picks up and the resistance occurs. Im pretty certain that this feeling provides more BIKE momentum because your LEGS have more momentum by the time the drivetrain engages

Thats the best I can do, if you still think im wrong then I dont think I can try to convince you otherwise

Yeah but when you hit that ep, you're going to have a massive decrease in momentum. I think it would be more efficient just to learn how to get more explosive power out of your legs.

JT! go to your wall, clench your fist, push against the wall,does the wall break, one would hope not, do the same with an inch between you and the wall, the wall probably still wont break(unless your bruce lee), now throw a proper punch at the wall, with your first starting a couple of feet back from the wall,your fist will go through the plasterboard without to much hassle.

slightly less destructive analogy, place a nail into a piece of wood, push on the nail with that hammer, then take a couple of inches, and tap the hammer, then swing the hammer at it. see the greater movement, due to the increased run up.

now imagining there grip between the tyre and terrain, would having free space to pick up momentum before the freewheel engaged, provide greater movement?

edit: probably best you dont go to your wall, as a) your not hard like fatpants and B ) you essentially live in a caravan, i dont particularly want a lawsuit(i know what you americans are like) from you sticking your fist through some styrofoam and then cutting yourself on the fibreglass/tin exteriror.

That would be a fair analogy if you were out to break pawls in your freewheel. But you're not. I do see where you're coming from, but i wouldn't sacrifice ep's over it.

Edited September 20, 2009 by JT!

[J Trials 31]

Haven't tried one, but I do quite love my Monty fw.

[Matt Vandart]

without question, but EP is a highly sought after property here in the trials world When I look for a freewheel, the first thing I want is something that wont skip, as you've commented on. The second thing I look for is EP, but not 96.

The reason being, if im setting up for a short run up and theres no freewheel slack (for argument sake, call it an infinite amount of EP) I can't get any momentum from the cranks without being met by the resisting force of the wheel on the ground. As soon as I move the cranks, the wheel goes too. I find I cant get as much power to the cranks if this is the case.

I prefer something like the current tensile freewheel at 60 click. Now if Im setting up, theres a bit of play between me moving the cranks without resistance, and the wheel turning. This gives me better momentum through the pedals, so that by the time the drive engages Ive got more torque going through the cranks

Thats a headf*ck im sorry, but its the only way I can explain it. High EP is obviously beneficial for precision, but if you go OTT you may find yourself a bit hindered. Plus if youre poor like me, less EP is cheaper

I agree with this statement entirely and in fact was talking to my mate about it just the other day as I had just got a 96.

Another thing I noticed was that my pedals are more likely to crank themselves up when doing correction hops.

I think the best is probs 70 ish although the 60 is really good.

I used to run a tight chain but have a bit of slack on it now.

Matt

[Mike Winton.]

mine just f**kin skipped on way home, not happy

[willis-gu]

mine just f**kin skipped on way home, not happy

hehe

[J Trials 31]

mine just f**kin skipped on way home, not happy

Sounds like the old ones. lol

[pablotrial]

i hope its good because i have just ordered one

my rockman fw lasted 5 months:S:S but i never serviced it

i think ill take more care of this one