George.E Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 HeyThe problem I have is that the allen key part in the leaver pin has snapped off but is still stuck in the braa barrel, I just need to get it out so I can buy a new leaver pin.Can any one help me to get it out ?Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falmouth_trials Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Got any photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 It's a b*****d of a job. You need to replace the pushrod, the easiest way I found is to get some long nose pliers, clamp the pushrod with them, undo the lever blade bolt and use the blade to undo the brass barrel, but you have to squeeze are hard as you can and just try to stop the pushrod spinning in the pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookyboy Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 It's a b*****d of a job. You need to replace the pushrod, the easiest way I found is to get some long nose pliers, clamp the pushrod with them, undo the lever blade bolt and use the blade to undo the brass barrel, but you have to squeeze are hard as you can and just try to stop the pushrod spinning in the pliers.Alternatively use some needle nose pliers to remove the push rod all together by pulling the rubber seal type bit on the push out the way, and then using the pliers pop off the circlip thing and pulling the push rod out, this will be messy and you will need a rebleed, but i found this easiest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Yeh you can do that, I found that you need to have very skinny needle nosed pliers for that though, and mine weren't, so I had to do it the way I said.But yeh either will work. You'll have to rebleed anyway because to get the pushrod out of the lever, you have to relase the circlip holding it all in and the piston just comes out with the pushrod.If I were you and you're goig to have to have the lever apart anyway, I'd get a new seal kit and polish the pistons, makes the caliper adjust for pads wear correctly again and makes it easier to set up. I just went right through mine and it feels a lot nicer for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George.E Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Thanks for that guys, I will defo try them later an report back I was going to rebleed it anyway so that fine an is the kit your talking about this one : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2509 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) I always get this one: http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?produc...category_id=110If you find the caliper pistons have corroded bits on them, like lines where the seals were sat, I'd definately polish the pistons up. Get a drill and a cloth, use the drill chuck to get hold of the piston where the magnet is, then check it's in the chuck straight (can't be wobbling around), fold up the cloth and put it on the edge of the work bench, stick some autosol on it and just hold the piston against it, keep checking to see when it's getting polished. Remember, you want to take as little metal off the pistons as possible while still polishing them to a mirror finish, so it's important you get it mounted in the drill chuck straight.You don't need it to be completely mirror finish, just shiney where the seals run, and you need to make sure that the corroded bits are polished flat.The problem with these brakes is that when the pistons corrode underneath the seals, (has happened on every mono trial I've had), the corroded bit makes the surface rough, which wears the seal out much faster. Polishing it not only makes it seal better, but reduces wear on the seal and also means that the piston can move in the seal more freely, so the pad wear adjustment is better.Also makes it more difficult for the piston to stick to the seal and stop one of the pads moving, which happens a lot if the piston has corroded.Big essay, but basically what I'm saying is I'd really recommend polishing the pistons. Doesn't sound like much but it makes a big difference. Edited August 24, 2009 by Muel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jambo Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 get it sent to hope if your willing to wait a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George.E Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 I managed to get it out but I have already bought the kit on chain reactions so it should be ok, thanks alot for helping . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Tarty also sell a caliper only seal kit if you want to go right through the whole thing.I would if I were you, saves having to strip the brake again when the caliper seals go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 I always get this one: http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?produc...category_id=110If you find the caliper pistons have corroded bits on them, like lines where the seals were sat, I'd definately polish the pistons up. Get a drill and a cloth, use the drill chuck to get hold of the piston where the magnet is, then check it's in the chuck straight (can't be wobbling around), fold up the cloth and put it on the edge of the work bench, stick some autosol on it and just hold the piston against it, keep checking to see when it's getting polished. Remember, you want to take as little metal off the pistons as possible while still polishing them to a mirror finish, so it's important you get it mounted in the drill chuck straight.You don't need it to be completely mirror finish, just shiney where the seals run, and you need to make sure that the corroded bits are polished flat.The problem with these brakes is that when the pistons corrode underneath the seals, (has happened on every mono trial I've had), the corroded bit makes the surface rough, which wears the seal out much faster. Polishing it not only makes it seal better, but reduces wear on the seal and also means that the piston can move in the seal more freely, so the pad wear adjustment is better.Also makes it more difficult for the piston to stick to the seal and stop one of the pads moving, which happens a lot if the piston has corroded.Big essay, but basically what I'm saying is I'd really recommend polishing the pistons. Doesn't sound like much but it makes a big difference.Good thinking Batman Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Cheers, I was told it was a good idea to do it ages ago, just did mine and it's made a huge difference. The pads centered themselves in the caliper first time, so it was dead easy to get the disc in the middle of the caliper and not rubbing the pads. In the past I've found that Mono Trial brakes alwasy rub a bit because the pads never sat central to the slot for the rotor, but mine do now.Very important that it doesn't wobble as it spins, if it does then it will cause the piston to get polished more on one spot, which means you'll end up removing too much metal on that spot and it could start leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George.E Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Tarty also sell a caliper only seal kit if you want to go right through the whole thing.I would if I were you, saves having to strip the brake again when the caliper seals go.Il try an get one, but im a bit low on money at the mo lol, thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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