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Pegs On A Fourplay?


Spektrum

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Well after seeing dave marshall's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92rMlZfmkJE, along with numerous danny mac vids of him riding street, i wanted to get 2 bmx pegs installed on my fourplay. So yesterday i took a trip down to my local bike shop to ask them about the pegs, and showing them my bike they said it was impossible. Yet a few of my riding buddies have told me it is, and you can clearly see dave has a peg on his rear axel. Is there a special type of peg i need? I have no idea how to set up a peg on a trials bike so all help is greatly appreciated. If you need pictures or specs, i will be more than happy to comply.

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It's definitely possible. The reason I didn't run one on the front is that I use a disc and grind to the disc side so it was a no-go. I did consider not running a front brake but I like ups to front too much! The rear one was just a standard 10mm BMX one (first tried a G-Sport PLEG but it lasted about two rides so went for an Odyssey Jpeg Lite). I initially ran them on a standard Echo singlespeed hub with a longer than standard Unbrako screw but decided that was asking for trouble so instead turned up a stainless steel axle at work which used proper 10mm nuts instead. Worked just fine and was good fun for experimenting with! I'm currently running without because the peg wasn't being used enough but there's no reason why you can't go for it!

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ah, i was worried i might have to change the axel, I was hoping for an easy on easy off sort of thing just so i could experiment with bmx a little more. I'm running an onza fixed hub (6 speed from tarty) with the stock screws. If i cant scrounge up longer screws ill have to try on the stock ones, new hub comes last : (. Thanks for the advice.

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You also have to take into account that most BMX hubs use 10 or 14mm axles, giving enough strength to support the weight of the rider. If you're landing on a peg held on by M5/M6 bolts I'd have said they'd snap within 2 or 3 tricks.

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It wouldn't take much to make a new axle for the Onza hub- I just copied all the dimensions for the bearing shoulders etc and simply had longer M10 threaded ends instead of the drilled and tapped M6 screw holes in the stock axle. Easy to change and you can still run the modified axle when you remove the peg. If you know anyone who works in a machining place it would be worth an ask- think I made mine in about 2 hours (and I'm not exactly skilled on a lathe and the one at work doesn't have any of the right tools so it was all bodging and guesswork!).

Edit: Forgot to add that when I ran the M6 screws in the standard axle I also turned up a little aluminium tophat thing which took the 10mm hole in the peg down to 6mm for the screw and located everything correctly. Ran it like that for a while (in fact that Youtube vid was done with the standard axles and M6's) but eventually decided it would be a better idea to go for the new axle.

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Do you reckon you could run a peg on a chris king funbolt?

In theory yes however because CK HD axles are aluminium I don't think it would be that advisable... Also, because the funbolt threads are M12 you'd have to get 14mm pegs and then make some kind of sleeve or tophat washer to take up the 'slack' (Edit: which still wouldn't quite work due to the bolt reducing down to ~10mm at the dropout). It would also depend on how thick the 'base' of the peg and also the thickness of your dropout because of the design of the bolts.

Edit: So yeah, probably no :P.

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They wouldn't fit in the dropouts though. You'd have to file the frame to get them to fit... (assuming you're talking about CK).

No was responding to this:

If using a peg was more practical for me, I'd do it. :(

Can you get a proper nut axle for a pro II?

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Thought so :P Yeah, that'd work. Only problem is the aluminium axle although I don't know quite how beefy the ProII axles are...

I suppose, it is why I am not trying it. How much do you reckon an engineering firm would charge to build a new axle out of steel? I want one for my oldschool t-rex.

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I suppose, it is why I am not trying it. How much do you reckon an engineering firm would charge to build a new axle out of steel? I want one for my oldschool t-rex.

Your best bet is to find a friend or someones dad or whatever who works in a machine shop... I'd have thought if you could provide them with the original aluminium axle to copy the geometry from and throw £10-£15 at them they would be fairly happy to oblige. Homers ftw!

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Thought so :P Yeah, that'd work. Only problem is the aluminium axle although I don't know quite how beefy the ProII axles are...

Heard and seen more than few broken ones from regular riding. Over tightening may have been the issue in some cases, but you get the point.

I'd also definitely go with a custom steel axle for the rear. Probably the only option without mods.

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Yeah what bender said. Surely a dmr or similar hub with threads for a freewheel or sprocket with a nutted 10mm axle would be strong enough? But then again i don't actually know how strong the axles have to be it was just a thought.

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Hollow 10mm axle + peg = danger.

The thing is - if you're just using it to do stalls (because on a trials bike, it's unlikely you'd be able to get much speed to grind anything properly, plus the dropouts/frame would get f**king destroyed almost instantly, judging by how much it kills BMX frames that are designed to handle being ground on), why not get a micro peg instead? I do a bunch of pegless grinds/stalls on my BMX, they're genuinely not that hard to do, so it'd probably make more sense to just try that? Superstar make various versions for use with female or male axles, so you could always give them a look.

But yeah, unless you're after a f**ked axle, stick with a solid 10mm axle. Also, try and get a hub that'll support the dropout better 'cos otherwise they'll probably just get f**ked almost instantly if you start doing anything serious...

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