Spektrum Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Well I recently received my fourplay, and im used to riding a mile or two to my favorite spot but its now a pain in the ass to get there. Has anyone ever added a second gear on their rear axel without a de-railer? Ideally i just want a smaller cog (or larger?) so that i could manually move the chain from one cog to the other depending on whether i was riding to my location or if i was riding trials. Would this screw with my chain too much? Could i make it work without a derailer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigamac Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Well I recently received my fourplay, and im used to riding a mile or two to my favorite spot but its now a pain in the ass to get there. Has anyone ever added a second gear on their rear axel without a de-railer? Ideally i just want a smaller cog (or larger?) so that i could manually move the chain from one cog to the other depending on whether i was riding to my location or if i was riding trials. Would this screw with my chain too much? Could i make it work without a derailer?The only thing that you may want to think about is the chain line?I take it you have a cassette/free hub?If so then it should be fine to put a couple of sprockets on there with the tensioner. Correct me if I'm wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) I have an et24 with 2 gears on. I don't use a mech, but this tensioner. When I want to change gears I have to move the jockey wheel in the tensioner over by loosening the bolt that attaches the jockey wheel to the body of the tensioner.You will have to use some kind of tensioner, either what I have used or a mech, and to be honest it would be quite easy to use a mech with a v. short bit of cable, and just use the barrel adjuster to change gear. The only problem is that if your anything like me you'll f**k something up and rip the barrel adjuster off in about 2 minutes!Edit- just thought, beware going anything smaller than 14 tooth with the tensioner I have used. If you do go smaller you'll need a double jockey wheel tensioner or the chain'll just slip over the teeth of the gear Edited June 23, 2009 by Elliot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikeperson45 Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 The only problem is that if your anything like me you'll f**k something up and rip the barrel adjuster off in about 2 minutes!That's what made me give up on gears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 I had two gears on my fourplay but I used a derallieur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektrum Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 I have an et24 with 2 gears on. I don't use a mech, but this tensioner. When I want to change gears I have to move the jockey wheel in the tensioner over by loosening the bolt that attaches the jockey wheel to the body of the tensioner.You will have to use some kind of tensioner, either what I have used or a mech, and to be honest it would be quite easy to use a mech with a v. short bit of cable, and just use the barrel adjuster to change gear. The only problem is that if your anything like me you'll f**k something up and rip the barrel adjuster off in about 2 minutes!Edit- just thought, beware going anything smaller than 14 tooth with the tensioner I have used. If you do go smaller you'll need a double jockey wheel tensioner or the chain'll just slip over the teeth of the gearalright thanks, i have the same tensioner, (came with the bike) hopefully ill be able to sort something out, thanks for the replys everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 You will have to use some kind of tensioner, either what I have used or a mech, and to be honest it would be quite easy to use a mech with a v. short bit of cable, and just use the barrel adjuster to change gear. The only problem is that if your anything like me you'll f**k something up and rip the barrel adjuster off in about 2 minutes!That's what made me give up on gearsThe solution to your problems:You need to do a bit of tinkering with limiter screws and whatever but I can now change gear in around 2 seconds, it works perfectly for two gears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Nichols Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 That's a great idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektrum Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 The solution to your problems:You need to do a bit of tinkering with limiter screws and whatever but I can now change gear in around 2 seconds, it works perfectly for two gears Thanks Tom, that pic is really helpful, i think im gonna go to my local bikeshop and see if they can set me with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) Fill your tubes with water for more of a flywheel effect when going to your destination, when you're there, let the water out and fill with air. Edited June 26, 2009 by JT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belga Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 Well I recently received my fourplay, and im used to riding a mile or two to my favorite spot but its now a pain in the ass to get there. Has anyone ever added a second gear on their rear axel without a de-railer? Ideally i just want a smaller cog (or larger?) so that i could manually move the chain from one cog to the other depending on whether i was riding to my location or if i was riding trials. Would this screw with my chain too much? Could i make it work without a derailer?So, how did you do? Did you add a second gear and if so, how did you set it up?I'm thinking of doing the same thing which is why i'm bringing this thread to life again. I just picked up my new bike a few days ago and i'm thinking of doing a version of this since i want to use it for riding to/from spots and work. My idea was to just add a second, larger, sprocket and a decent chain tensioner and then just move the chain manually just like your original idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Trials 31 Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 Same here, would be interested in having some gears when I get a 24". ( if ever lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason222 Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 Same here, would be interested in having some gears when I get a 24". ( if ever lol)I wish you'd stop talking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 If you run dual-ring cranks, you can use a larger chainring. A good double-wheel tensioner like a tensile or a rohloff (I had a NC17 stinger) will take enough chain to let you switch between 32 and 22 at the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belga Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 If you run dual-ring cranks, you can use a larger chainring. A good double-wheel tensioner like a tensile or a rohloff (I had a NC17 stinger) will take enough chain to let you switch between 32 and 22 at the front.My idea was the other way around, adding a larger sprocket to my freehub and then have it set up with the chainring and larger sprocket in line so that when i switch to the "transport gear" the chain will have a bit more slack which will be picked up by a fron chainguide. Will that work or is dual-ring cranks better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 Dual chainrings is better. If you ise two sprockets, you will hape problems with having to re-align the tensioner to whichever sprocket it's on. At the front, it's further away from the tensioner and rear sprocket, so it won't pull the chain off the sprockets. Although I did find that the chain would jump off sometimes riding around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Trials 31 Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 I wish you'd stop talking about it.I wish I'd get a 24" lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lankyri Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 man up and just leave 20 mins earlier joking on a serious note though apart from the idea with the diagram it sounds like to much effort to me any way by the time you sort out the tensioner you could be half way there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Trials 31 Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 What about I propose the idea of a three speed internal trials hub? I'd love it if someone could actually make one. But remember I get the money for the idea... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belga Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 While thinking about this i have had a few other thoughts but most of all i've realised i know far to little about rear hubs.The way things are right now i'm just thinking about changing the chainwheel/sprockets and skip the whole "transport mode" idea for now, do some more research and get back to it when i can do it properly. The thing is i have no idea what sprockets to get.I basically know how the ratio thing works, but i can't seem to find any chainring with less than 25t. The bike i got last week whas a Specialized P1 2009 model, and the default is 28/14 which i find a bit heavy. While not finding a chainring that fits with less than 25t i instead thought of switching the rear sprocket to a larger one to get the ratio closer to 1 but now i am faced with having no idea what sprockets i need.There is already a freehub mounted, only with spacers to adapt it to single speed (SS?) and the hub is grooved. Are all freehubs grooved the same way or is there a size/no. of grooves issue to think of as well?Anyone feel like they could enlighten me?What about I propose the idea of a three speed internal trials hub? I'd love it if someone could actually make one. But remember I get the money for the idea... lolI would love that First thing i thought of when i read your post was the old gearing system where you could pedal backwards to switch gears (only 2 gears). This would obviously not work on a trials bike, but a modified version would be nice. Instead of moving the pedals backwards one could have a ring on the rear hub to set the gear. Kind of like a switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Trials 31 Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Yeah, I got the idea from seeing cruisers a lot with 3 speed internal hubs they work nice and just thought, that would be great on a trials bike. No derailleur is even better. Just need somebody to try and produce my idea. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Have you ever ridden an internal geared hub? Even the best of them have crappy pickup (About as good as a Shimano 16 click freehub). The 3 speed Sturmey Archers are significantly worse for pickup, being more like about a 4 click hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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